Bacterial cellulose (BC) emerges as a versatile biomaterial with a myriad of industrial applications, particularly within the cosmetics sector. The absence of hemicellulose, lignin, and pectin in its pure cellulose structure enables favorable interactions with both hydrophilic and hydrophobic biopolymers. This enhances compatibility with active ingredients commonly employed in cosmetics, such as antioxidants, vitamins, and botanical extracts. Recent progress in BC-based materials, which encompasses membranes, films, gels, nanocrystals, and nanofibers, highlights its significant potential in cosmetics. In this context, BC not only serves as a carrier for active ingredients but also plays a crucial role as a structural agent in formulations. The sustainability of BC production and processing is a central focus, highlighting the need for innovative approaches to strengthen scalability and cost-effectiveness. Future research endeavors, including the exploration of novel cultivation strategies and functionalization techniques, aim to maximize BC\'s therapeutic potential while broadening its scope in personalized skincare regimes. Therefore, this review emphasizes the crucial contribution of BC to the cosmetics sector, underlining its role in fostering innovation, sustainability, and ethical skincare practices. By integrating recent research findings and industry trends, this review proposes a fresh approach to advancing both skincare science and environmental responsibility in the cosmetics industry.

Known for its natural bio-compounds and therapeutic properties, hemp is being utilized in the development of skin products. These products offer a wide range of applications and benefits in the fields of natural bio-compounds, pharmaceutical technology, topical delivery systems, and cosmeceuticals. This manuscript deals with hemp actives, such as cannabinoids, terpenes, and flavonoids, and their diverse biological properties relative to topical application, including anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial, and antioxidant effects. Also, the paper reviews strategies to overcome poor penetration of hemp actives, as well as the integration of hemp actives in cosmeceuticals that provide natural and sustainable alternatives to traditional skincare products offering a range of benefits, including anti-aging, moisturizing, and soothing properties. The review aims to provide a comprehensive understanding of the development and manufacturing processes of skin products containing hemp actives. By delving into the science behind hemp-based products, the paper provides valuable insights into the potential of hemp as a versatile ingredient in the pharmaceutical and cosmetic industries. The utilization of hemp in these innovative products not only offers therapeutic benefits but also promotes natural and sustainable approaches to skincare.

This study aimed to extract bioactive proteins and protein hydrolysates from Apis mellifera larvae and assess their potential application in cosmetics as well as their irritation properties. The larvae were defatted and extracted using various mediums, including DI water, along with 0.5 M aqueous solutions of sodium hydroxide, ascorbic acid, citric acid, and hydrochloric acid. Subsequently, the crude proteins were hydrolyzed using the Alcalase® enzyme. All extracts underwent testing for antioxidant activities via the 2,2\'-azino-bis (3-ethylbenzothiazoline-6-sulfonic acid) and Griess assays. Anti-aging properties were evaluated in terms of anti-collagenase and anti-hyaluronidase effects. Irritation potential was assessed using the hen\'s egg chorioallantoic membrane (HET-CAM) test. The results revealed that the sodium hydroxide extraction showed promising outcomes in terms of yield, protein content, and effectiveness in inhibiting hyaluronidase, with the highest inhibition at 78.1 ± 1.5%, comparable to that of oleanolic acid. Conversely, crude protein extracted with ascorbic acid and its hydrolysate showed notable antioxidant and collagenase-inhibitory activities. Remarkably, their anti-collagenase effects were comparable to those of ascorbic acid and lysine. Additionally, it demonstrated safety upon testing with the CAM. In conclusion, the findings provided valuable insights into the utilization of A. mellifera larval proteins as active ingredients with a wide range of cosmeceutical applications, particularly due to their antioxidant, anti-aging, and low irritation properties, which hold significant promise for anti-skin wrinkles.

Skin aging is the result of physiological changes determined by genetically driven processes and intrinsic factors, and exacerbated by a combination of multiple environmental factors, the main one being sun exposure. The effects of photoaging are particularly apparent on the face, where the appearance of aging signs can have a significant impact on the emotions conveyed and well-being. Photoprotection and facial skin care for managing photoaging signs are thus of particular importance for both physical and mental health. Countries, like Australia and Brazil, where the level of sun exposure is high and the populations have predominantly outdoor lifestyles, are particularly aware of the harms of photoaging and have implemented several measures to help reduce the risk of skin cancer in their populations. However, sun-seeking behaviours are difficult to change, and it takes time before interventions provide perceptible results. Australia still has some of the highest skin cancer incidence and mortality rates in the world. Solutions that target individuals can also be used for minimizing the clinical signs of facial aging and for improving skin quality, with the ultimate aim being not only to improve the appearance of the skin but also to mitigate the occurrence of pre-malignant and malignant lesions. This review summarizes the features of facial skin photoaging in photo-exposed populations, based on evidence gained from studies of Australian individuals, and discusses the various available solutions for skin photoaging, in particular those that are most popular in Brazil, which is a country with many years of experience in managing photoaged skin.

Management of the signs of facial aging and other cosmetic skin problems have greatly evolved in the past years. People are also seeking to improve their well-being and global skin appearance, and when they consider using cosmetic procedures, they expect natural and long-lasting aesthetic results. Combined dermocosmetic approaches that address the signs of facial aging at all levels are increasingly being used by dermatologists to meet patient expectations while ensuring their safety. Minimally invasive and reversible procedures that can be performed in only one session are popular approaches for skin restructuring and volumizing as they are flexible, rapid and less burdensome for patients. These interventions can achieve even better outcomes when they are combined with cosmeceuticals as pre- or post-procedural adjuvants to prepare the skin, accelerate recovery and sustain results. The use of topical dermocosmetics is also recommended as part of the daily skin care routine to improve skin quality and help maintain skin barrier function. This review thus outlines the most commonly used combined multilevel anti-aging strategies, which start by addressing the deepest skin layers and then the more superficial signs of skin aging. Examples of multi-active cosmeceuticals and skin delivery enhancing systems are also presented, together with examples of the use of dermocosmetics as supportive care for aesthetic procedures, to provide insights into current applications of dermocosmetic products.

Skin aging has long been considered a purely cosmetic problem. However, as life expectancy increases, skin aging is taking on a functional dimension that goes beyond cosmetics and appearance. Preventive or therapeutic strategies are needed to target cellular senescence, a key process underlying the alterations in skin function and appearance that occur with aging, as well as to address the age-related skin changes associated with \'dermatoporosis\' and chronic skin insufficiency/fragility syndrome. Thus, given the need for effective anti-aging products that improve both the appearance and function of the skin, it is essential to distinguish active ingredients that have been proven to be effective, among the large number of available over-the-counter cosmeceuticals. This brief review focuses on a core group of topical actives, describing their clinical effects on senescence and aging, and their molecular mechanisms of action. These actives include hyaluronic acid, which has hydrating and viscoelastic properties and has been shown to reduce skin atrophy; retinaldehyde, which activates retinoid receptors and increases cutaneous elasticity; vitamins C and E, which provide stable oxidative protection; and niacinamide, which reduces inflammation and mitigates the effects of senescence.

BACKGROUND: Chemical exfoliation of the skin is a frequently utilized treatment in dermatology to improve the appearance and health of photoaged skin. Photodamaged skin is especially prone to dryness and irritation. Over-exfoliation with at-home products are partially to blame for the \"epidemic\" of sensitive skin affecting over half the population. Combining AHA, BHA, and PHA together creates a complementary blend that has the potential to target numerous age-related changes in the skin including the appearance of pores and smoothing skin texture, while firming skin and increasing its collagen and moisture content.
OBJECTIVE: The following study tested the clinical efficacy of a triple acid blend designed specifically for sensitive skin and measured improvements in signs of photodamage and hydration levels in the skin over time.
METHODS: Thirty females aged 35-60 with mild to moderate facial lines, wrinkles, sun damage, uneven skin tone/texture, dark spots, or pores were enrolled. Subjects were instructed to use the test article, DWB-EN, on a clean face at night 3 times weekly with 48 h between applications for 4 weeks.
RESULTS: Statistically significant improvements were noted in all parameters of photoaging clinical assessments (wrinkles, pores, overall appearance, luminosity, visible texture, skin tone evenness, hyperpigmentation) at the end of the 4-week study period. There were no instances of skin irritation throughout the duration of this study despite half of the women having sensitive skin.
CONCLUSIONS: Overall, this study demonstrated the clinical efficacy and tolerability of DWB-EN for treating photoaging in subjects with all skin types.

Mannosylerythritol lipids (MELs) are a class of amphipathic molecules bearing a hydrophilic 4-O-β-D-mannopyranosyl-D-erythritol skeleton. Here, we designed and synthesized four kinds of MEL analogues R-MEL-A ([2R,3S]-erythritol type), S-mannosylthreitol lipid (MTL)-A ([2S,3S]-threitol type), R-MTL-A ([2R,3R]-threitol type), and α-S-MEL-A ([2S,3R]-erythritol type) using our previously reported boron-mediated aglycon delivery (BMAD) method and a neighboring group assisted glycosylation method. The selective cytotoxicity of the target compounds against cancer cells was evaluated, with R-MTL-A showing the highest selective cytotoxicity against human skin squamous carcinoma HSC-5 cells. Our findings suggest that R-MTL-A induces necrosis-like cell death against HSC-5 cells by decreasing cell membrane fluidity. R-MTL-A also exhibits an efficient recovery effect on damaged skin cells, indicating that R-MTL-A has potential as a lead compound for new cosmeceuticals with both cancer cell-selective toxicity and recovery effects on damaged skin cells.

Encapsulation and drying technologies allow the engineering of innovative raw materials from plant biodiversity, with potential applications in pharmaceutical and cosmetic fields. Lipid-based nanoencapsulation stands out for its efficiency, ease of production, and versatility in encapsulating substances, whether hydrophilic or lipophilic. This work aimed at encapsulating pequi oil in liposomes and freeze-dried liposomes to enhance its stability and functional benefits, such as skin hydration and anti-aging effects, for use in innovative cosmetic formulations. Pequi oil-extracted from the Caryocar brasiliense fruit pulp, a plant species from Brazilian plant biodiversity-is rich in secondary metabolites and fatty acids. Liposomes and dried liposomes offer controlled production processes and seamless integration into cosmetic formulations. The physicochemical analysis of the developed liposomes confirmed that the formulations are homogeneous and electrokinetically stable, as evidenced by consistent particle size distribution and zeta potential values, respectively. The gel-type formulations loaded with the dried liposomes exhibit enhanced skin hydration, improved barrier function, and refined microrelief, indicating improvements in skin conditions. These results highlight the potential of dried liposomes containing pequi oil for the development of innovative cosmeceutical products. This research contributes to the valorization of Brazilian biodiversity by presenting an innovative approach to leveraging the dermatological benefits of pequi oil in cosmetic applications.

Porphyra sensu lato has economic importance for food and pharmaceutical industries due to its significant physiological activities resulting from its bioactive compounds (BACs). This study aimed to determine the optimal nitrate dosage required in short-term cultivation to achieve substantial BAC production. A nitrate experiment using varied concentrations (0 to 6.5 mM) revealed optimal nitrate uptake at 0.5 mM in the first two days and at 3 and 5 mM in the last five days. Polyphenols and carbohydrates showed no differences between treatments, while soluble proteins peaked at 1.5 and 3 mM. Total mycosporine-like amino acids (MAAs) were highest in algae incubated at 5 and 6.5 mM, and the highest antioxidant activity was observed in the 5 mM, potentially related to the MAAs amount. Total carbon and sulfur did not differ between treatments, while nitrogen decreased at higher nitrate. This discovery highlights the nuanced role of nitrate in algal physiology, suggesting that biological and chemical responses to nitrate supplementation can optimize an organism\'s health and its commercially significant bioactive potential. Furthermore, given its ability to absorb high doses of nitrate, this alga can be cultivated in eutrophic zones or even in out-/indoor tanks, becoming an excellent option for integrated multi-trophic aquaculture (IMTA) and bioremediation.