Niacinamide (or nicotinamide) is a small-molecule hydrosoluble vitamin with essential metabolic functions in mammalian cells. Niacinamide has become a key functional ingredient in diverse skincare products and cosmetics. This vitamin plays a pivotal role in NAD+ synthesis, notably contributing to redox reactions and energy production in cutaneous cells. Via diversified biochemical mechanisms, niacinamide is also known to influence human DNA repair and cellular stress responses. Based on decades of safe use in cosmetics, niacinamide recently gained widespread popularity as an active ingredient which aligns with the \"Kligman standards\" in skincare. From a therapeutic standpoint, the intrinsic properties of niacinamide may be applied to managing acne vulgaris, melasma, and psoriasis. From a cosmeceutical standpoint, niacinamide has been widely leveraged as a multipurpose antiaging ingredient. Therein, it was shown to significantly reduce cutaneous oxidative stress, inflammation, and pigmentation. Overall, through multimodal mechanisms, niacinamide may be considered to partially prevent and/or reverse several biophysical changes associated with skin aging. The present narrative review provides multifactorial insights into the mechanisms of niacinamide\'s therapeutic and cosmeceutical functions. The ingredient\'s evolving role in skincare was critically appraised, with a strong focus on the biochemical mechanisms at play. Finally, novel indications and potential applications of niacinamide in dermal fillers and alternative injectable formulations were prospectively explored.

Integrated skincare combines clinically proven skincare products with professional medical aesthetics to provide a comprehensive solution for beauty pursuers. Studies have demonstrated that a combination of medical aesthetic procedures and maintenance therapies is more effective than either treatment alone. This review outlines the current applications of integrated skincare, including different regimens of energy-based aesthetic devices and active ingredients in cosmeceuticals or chemical peels. Additionally, the benefits and limitations of integrated skincare are discussed. Lastly, this review highlights the potential for improved satisfaction and long-term maintenance of the desired outcomes through appropriate integrated skincare procedures.

Skin toxicities are very common in patients undergoing cancer treatment and have been found to occur with all types of cancer therapeutic interventions (cytotoxic chemotherapy, targeted therapies, immunotherapy, and radiotherapy). Further, skin toxicities can lead to interruption or even discontinuation of anticancer treatment in some patients, translating to suboptimal outcomes. Dermocosmetics (or cosmeceuticals)-defined as skincare solutions incorporating dermatologically active ingredients (beyond vehicle effects) that directly improve symptoms of various skin conditions-are increasingly being used in cancer care to prevent and manage skin toxicities. The active ingredients in these products have a measurable biological action in skin; they typically improve skin integrity (barrier function/hydration and other factors) while relieving skin symptoms. The Association Francophone des Soins Oncologiques de Support (AFSOS) and Multinational Association of Supportive Care in Cancer (MASCC) partnered to select a multidisciplinary group of healthcare professionals involved in the management of patients with cancer and skin toxicities. The group reviewed existing literature and created a summary of recommendations for managing these toxicities through online meetings and communication. In this publication, the group (1) reviews new skin toxicities seen with oncology drugs and (2) evaluates the role of dermocosmetics in improving patient outcomes and minimizing cancer treatment interruptions. We provide general recommendations for initiation and selection of skin care in all oncology patients as well as recommendations for what factors should be considered when using dermocosmetics in specific types of skin toxicities.

The main issues with local delivery of cosmetics are their high sensitivity and limited drug loading of active pharmaceutical ingredient. Nanocrystal technology offers consumers cutting-edge and effective products and exhibits enormous development potential in the beauty business as a new delivery method to address the issue of low solubility and low permeability of sensitive chemicals. In this review, we described the processes for making NCs, along with the impacts of loading and the uses of different carriers. Among them, nanocrystalline loaded gel and emulsion are widely used and may further improve the stability of the system. Then, we introduced the beauty efficacy of drug NCs from five aspects: anti-inflammation and acne, anti-bacterial, lightening and freckle removal, anti-aging as well as UV protection. Following that, we presented the current scenario about stability and safety. Finally, the challenges and vacancy were discussed along with the potential uses of NCs in the cosmetics industry. This review serves as a resource for the advancement of nanocrystal technology in the cosmetics sector.

BACKGROUND: The stratum corneum (SC) is the main barrier of the skin, and cosmeceuticals are different from ordinary cosmetics in that they need to deliver active ingredients targeting specific skin problems through the SC into the deeper layers of the skin. Thus, we designed a compound essential oil (CEO) extracted from Salvia miltiorrhiza Bge and Cinnamomum cassia Presl, supplemented with borneol to deliver active ingredients through the SC.
METHODS: The CEO was prepared by flash extraction combined with the microwave method. Moreover, the main components of the CEO were determined using gas chromatography-mass spectrometry (GCMS). Visualization techniques, such as scanning electron microscopy (SEM), haematoxylin-eosin (HE) staining, and confocal laser scanning microscopy (CLSM), were used to study the permeationpromoting mechanism of the CEO on the skin. Furthermore, the permeation-promoting effects of the CEO on both hydrophobic and hydrophilic ingredients were tested via in vitro skin penetration experiments and in vivo microdialysis experiments.
RESULTS: The results indicated the ability of the CEO to alter the structure of the SC, leading to enhanced transdermal permeation of hydrophobic and hydrophilic ingredients. The 1.5% CEO group demonstrated the best permeation-promoting effect compared to the other CEO groups and blank groups (P<0.05). Furthermore, the CEO displayed an expedited permeability-promoting effect on hydrophobic ingredients compared to hydrophilic ingredients.
CONCLUSIONS: It is concluded that the prepared CEO can promote the transdermal permeation of hydrophobic and hydrophilic ingredients. This study will provide a reference for the application of the prepared CEO in the development of cosmeceuticals with natural efficacy.

BACKGROUND: Aging of neck and jawline skin is caused by intrinsic and extrinsic factors and is evidenced by wrinkling, laxity, skin dyspigmentation, loss of the mandibular contour, accumulation of submental fat, density loss, and prominent platysma bands. Early intervention with topical cosmeceuticals, especially in younger subjects with \"tech neck,\" can offer a solution and potentially mitigate aging of the neck and jawline.
OBJECTIVE: The objective of this prospective, open-label, single-center clinical study was to assess the efficacy and tolerability of a topical anti-aging neck treatment (TNT) in a cohort of Chinese women with mild to moderate signs of aging on the neck and jawline.
METHODS: This study was approved by an ethics committee and involved healthy Chinese subjects. Thirty-five female subjects, 25-50 years old, with mild to moderate signs of aging of the neck and jawline were recruited. Subjects applied the TNT to the neck and jawline twice daily for 84 days. Long-term efficacy and tolerability, clinical photography, bioinstrumentation, and a self-assessment questionnaire were performed at baseline and post-baseline.
RESULTS: The TNT significantly improved horizontal neck fold lines and neck skin elasticity, hydration, gloss/radiance, and skin tone evenness post-baseline. Clinical photography and ultrasound corroborated these findings. The product was well perceived and well tolerated by subjects.
CONCLUSIONS: This study demonstrated the TNT was effective against both extrinsic and intrinsic aging of the neck and jawline. The TNT provides a topical solution for Chinese women concerned with an aging appearance of the neck including \"tech neck.\"

Seaweeds are potential ingredients in the cosmeceutical industry. Our previous study demonstrates that the phlorotannin-enriched extract of Ecklonia maxima (EME-EA) containing dieckol and eckmaxol possesses strong anti-inflammatory activity and suggests the cosmeceutical potential of EME-EA. In order to evaluate the cosmeceutical potential of EME-EA, the anti-melanogenesis and photoprotective effects of EME-EA were investigated in this study. EME-EA remarkably inhibited mushroom tyrosinase and melanogenesis in alpha-melanocyte-stimulating hormone-stimulated B16F10 cells. In addition, EME-EA significantly suppressed UVB-induced HaCaT cell death that was consistent with inhibition of apoptosis and reduction in scavenging intracellular reactive oxygen species. Furthermore, EME-EA significantly inhibited collagen degradation and matrix metalloproteinases expression in UVB-irradiated HDF cells in a concentration-dependent manner. These results indicate that EME-EA possesses strong anti-melanogenesis and photoprotective activities and suggest EME-EA is an ideal ingredient in the pharmaceutical and cosmeceutical industries.

Blue gum (Eucalyptus globulus) is a widely used botanical in the cosmeceutical and food industries. Although blue gum leaves are known for abundant essential oils, their nonvolatile phytochemical constituents and bioactivities remain unclear. Herein, a phytochemical investigation of blue gum leaves led to the identification of eight new monoterpene acid and gallic acid glucose esters (1-4 and 14-17; glubosides A-H, respectively) and 12 known analogues (5-13 and 18-20). Their structures were determined based on extensive spectroscopic data analysis, chemical degradation, and chiral separation. Oleuropeic acid conjugated glucose esters (1-13, 15, 16, 18, and 20) are reported as epimeric mixtures. Compounds 7, 12, 14, 19, and 20 (at 30 μM) inhibited nitrite release in lipopolysaccharide (LPS)-stimulated RAW264.7 cells. Compounds 7 and 14 (at 3-30 μM) also down-regulated proinflammatory biomarkers, including cytokines (TNF-α, IL-6, and IL-1β), protein expression (iNOS and COX-2), and transcription factor nuclear translocation (NF-κB) in LPS-stimulated RAW264.7 cells. This work highlights the anti-inflammatory potential of phytochemicals from blue gum leaves, which supports their further development as cosmeceutical and/or nutraceutical products.

Sunlight is an important factor in regulating the central circadian rhythm, including the modulation of our sleep/wake cycles. Sunlight had also been discovered to have a prominent influence on our skin\'s circadian rhythm. Overexposure or prolonged exposure to the sun can cause skin photodamage, such as the formation of irregular pigmentation, collagen degradation, DNA damage, and even skin cancer. Hence, this review will be looking into the detrimental effects of sunlight on our skin, not only at the aspect of photoaging but also at its impact on the skin\'s circadian rhythm. The growing market trend of natural-product-based cosmeceuticals as also caused us to question their potential to modulate the skin\'s circadian rhythm. Questions about how the skin\'s circadian rhythm could counteract photodamage and how best to maximize its biopotential will be discussed in this article. These discoveries regarding the skin\'s circadian rhythm have opened up a completely new level of understanding of our skin\'s molecular mechanism and may very well aid cosmeceutical companies, in the near future, to develop better products that not only suppress photoaging but remain effective and relevant throughout the day.

BACKGROUND: Salvianolic acid B (SAB) is one of the main active ingredients of Salvia Miltiorrhiza. It has significant skin anti-aging, whitening, and sun protection properties.
OBJECTIVE: The study aimed at studying the mechanism underlying the effect of salvianolic acid Bon collagen synthesis, which has good anti-aging efficacy and modulates microcirculation.
METHODS: This study employed available public databases, bioinformatics methodologies, and the inverse docking approach to explore the effectiveness of SAB in the regulating collagen synthesis, and then used an human dermal fibroblast (HDF)- Human dermal microvascular endothelial cell (HDMEC) in vitro model to validate the predicted mechanism of SAB in influencing collagen synthesis.
RESULTS: The results showed that NO production in SAB-treated HDMEC-conditioned medium was increased compared to that in control media, and the same tendency was also observed for growth factor production. SAB also upregulated HDMEC cellular eNOS and VEGF. When SAB-treated HDMEC conditioned medium was transferred to HDFs, the expression of collagen I, collagen III, and elastin in HDFs was upregulated and MMP-1 was downregulated.
CONCLUSIONS: The results show that SAB regulates collagen through the HDMEC-HDF pathway. Furthermore, the mechanisms might be closely related to the microcirculation factors NO and VEGF.