BACKGROUND: Photoaging is a process of the architecture of normal skin damaged by ultraviolet radiation. Topical cosmeceuticals have been used to treat this condition. The authors aimed to understand the mechanism and level of evidence of different commonly used cosmeceuticals used to treat photodamaged skin.
OBJECTIVE: A range of commonly used topical cosmeceuticals (botanicals, peptides, and hydroquinone) has been used in cosmetic medicine for many years to treat photodamaged skin. This review article compares their efficacy and level of evidence.
METHODS: This study was a systematic review to evaluate the efficacy of different topical cosmeceuticals. Keywords including \"Photoaging,\" \"Azelaic acid,\" \"Soy,\" \"Green Tea,\" \"Chamomile,\" \"Ginkgo,\" \"Tea Tree Oil,\" \"Resveratrol,\" \"Cucumber,\" \"Ginseng,\" \"Centella asiatica,\" \"Licorice Root,\" \"Aloe Vera,\" \"Peptides,\" \"Argireline,\" \"Hydroquinone,\" were typed on OVID, PUBMED, MEDLINE for relevant studies published on photoaging treatment.
RESULTS: Most of the evidence behind cosmeceuticals is of high-quality ranging from Level I to Level II. In particular, the evidence base behind peptides is the strongest with most studies achieving Level Ib status in the evidence hierarchy.
CONCLUSIONS: Topical cosmeceuticals like botanicals, peptides and hydroquinone can effectively treat photodamaged skin.

The inevitable attrition of skin due to ultraviolet radiation, termed photoaging, can be partially restored by treatment with retinoid compounds. Photoaged skin in lightly pigmented individuals, clinically presents with the appearance of wrinkles, increased laxity, and hyper- and hypopigmentation. Underlying these visible signs of ageing are histological features such as epidermal thinning, dermal-epidermal junction flattening, solar elastosis and loss of the dermal fibrillin microfibrillar network, fibrillar collagen and glycosaminoglycans. Retinoid compounds are comprised of three main generations with the first generation (all-trans retinoic acid, retinol, retinaldehyde and retinyl esters) primarily used for the clinical and cosmetic treatment of photoaging, with varying degrees of efficacy, tolerance and stability. All-trans retinoic acid is considered the \'gold standard\' for skin rejuvenation; however, it is a prescription-only product largely confined to clinical use. Therefore, retinoid derivatives are readily incorporated into cosmeceutical formulations. The literature reported in this review suggests that retinol, retinyl esters and retinaldehyde that are used in many cosmeceutical products, are efficacious, safe and well-tolerated. Once in the skin, retinoids utilize a complex signalling pathway that promotes remodelling of photoaged epidermis and dermis and leads to the improvement of the cutaneous signs of photoaging.
L\'altération inévitable de la peau due aux rayons ultraviolets, appelée photovieillissement, peut être partiellement restaurée par un traitement à base de composés rétinoïdes. Chez les personnes à la pigmentation claire, le photovieillissement de la peau se manifeste au plan clinique par l\'apparition de rides, un relâchement accru et une hyperpigmentation ou hypopigmentation. Ces signes visibles du vieillissement sont sous‐tendus par des caractéristiques histologiques telles que l\'amincissement de l\'épiderme, l\'aplatissement de la jonction dermo‐épidermique, l\'élastose solaire et la perte du réseau microfibrillaire de fibrilline dermique, du collagène fibrillaire et des glycosaminoglycanes. Les composés rétinoïdes sont constitués de trois générations principales, la première génération (acide tout‐trans rétinoïque, rétinol, rétinaldéhyde et esters de rétinyle) étant principalement utilisée pour le traitement clinique et cosmétique du photovieillissement, avec des degrés variables d\'efficacité, de tolérance et de stabilité. L\'acide tout‐trans rétinoïque est considéré comme la référence en matière de rajeunissement de la peau; il s\'agit toutefois d\'un produit délivré uniquement sur ordonnance, dont l’utilisation est largement limitée au domaine clinique. Les dérivés rétinoïdes sont donc volontiers incorporés ds formulations cosméceutiques. La littérature citée dans cette synthèse bibliographique laisse penser que le rétinol, les esters de rétinyle et le rétinaldéhyde, utilisés dans de nombreux produits cosmétiques, sont efficaces, sûrs et bien tolérés. Une fois dans la peau, les rétinoïdes utilisent une voie de signalisation complexe qui favorise le remodelage de l\'épiderme et du derme photovieillis, et conduit à l\'amélioration des signes cutanés du photovieillissement.

The skin serves as a critical barrier against external threats-dehydration, ultraviolet exposure, and infections-playing a significant role in internal homeostasis and moisture retention. Additionally, and equally importantly, it interacts dynamically with the complex microbiome resident in it, which is essential for maintaining skin health. Recent interest has focused on the use of probiotics and postbiotics, besides their ability to modulate the skin microbiome, to enhance barrier function, and exhibit anti-inflammatory properties, to be involved in skincare, by having the potential to improve skin hydration, elasticity, and overall appearance, as well as in reducing signs of aging, such as wrinkles and fine lines. The products-being a combination of a cosmetic regime plus probiotic[s] or postbiotic[s]-are named cosmeceuticals. However, to comply with the regulations for the characterization of a microorganism as a specific probiotic strain, the pro- or postbiotics incorporated into the cosmetic regime should be both genetically and phenotypically defined. Thus, in this review, we present 14 published clinical trials using such cosmetic products with specific, well-characterized strains of probiotics or postbiotics applied to volunteers with healthy skin. Looking at the results of these studies collectively, we can say that these genetically and phenotypically defined strains of either live or inanimate bacteria and/or their components seem to keep the treated skin at least fully hydrated, with intact epithelial tone, increased radiance, and with decreased wrinkle depth, while normalizing the commensal skin microbiota. Future advancements in personalized skin care may lead to genomic sequencing and metabolomics to tailor probiotic and postbiotic treatments to individual skin microbiomes, promising a new frontier in cosmeceuticals.

The process of skin ageing is a natural biological phenomenon characterised by the emergence of wrinkles, age spots, sagging skin, and dryness over time. The increasing significance of skin in physical attractiveness has heightened skincare concerns. Anti-ageing cosmetics play a pivotal role in nurturing the skin, enhancing its quality, and promoting overall health. Today, cosmetics have evolved beyond mere aesthetics and are now integral to individual wellness. The contemporary quest for perpetual youth has intensified, prompting a deeper exploration into the skin ageing process. This comprehensive exploration delves into various elements involved in skin ageing, encompassing cells such as stem and endothelial cells, blood vessels, soft tissues, and signalling pathways. The molecular basis of skin ageing, including biochemical factors like reactive oxygen species, damaged DNA, free radicals, ions, and proteins (mRNA), is scrutinised alongside relevant animal models. The article critically analyzes the outcomes of utilising herbal components, emphasising their advantageous anti-ageing properties. The factors contributing to skin ageing, mechanistic perspectives, management approaches involving herbal cosmeceutical, and associated complications (especially cardiovascular diseases, Parkinson\'s, Alzheimer\'s, etc.) are succinctly addressed. In addition, the manuscript further summarises the recent patented innovations and toxicity of the herbal cosmeceuticals for anti-ageing and ageing associated disorders. Despite progress, further research is imperative to unlock the full potential of herbal components as anti-ageing agents.

Hydrogels based on poly(vinyl alcohol), silk sericin, and gelatin containing Camellia oleifera oil (CO)-loaded chitosan nanoparticles (CSNPs) were fabricated. The loading of CO into CSNPs was achieved by a two-step procedure, which included an oil-in-water emulsion and an ionic gelation method. SEM images of CO-loaded CSNPs illustrated the spherical shape with aggregation of the nanoparticles. The particle size and polydispersity index were 541-1089 nm and 0.39-0.65, respectively. The encapsulation efficiency and loading capacity were 3-16 % and 4-6 %, respectively. The gelatin/poly(vinyl alcohol)/sericin hydrogels were fabricated and incorporated with CO or CO-loaded CSNPs with different concentrations of CO-loaded CSNPs. All hydrogels demonstrated a porous structure. Besides, the hydrogels containing CO-loaded CSNPs showed a more controlled and sustained release profile than the hydrogels containing CO. Moreover, the hydrogels showed tyrosinase inhibition (9-13 %) and antioxidant activity (37-60 %). Finally, the hydrogels containing CO-loaded CSNPs were non-toxic to the Normal Human Dermal Fibroblasts and NCTC clone 929 cells, even at a high dosage of 50 mg/mL. As a result, these hydrogels exhibited excellent potential for use in cosmeceutical industries.

Bacterial cellulose (BC) emerges as a versatile biomaterial with a myriad of industrial applications, particularly within the cosmetics sector. The absence of hemicellulose, lignin, and pectin in its pure cellulose structure enables favorable interactions with both hydrophilic and hydrophobic biopolymers. This enhances compatibility with active ingredients commonly employed in cosmetics, such as antioxidants, vitamins, and botanical extracts. Recent progress in BC-based materials, which encompasses membranes, films, gels, nanocrystals, and nanofibers, highlights its significant potential in cosmetics. In this context, BC not only serves as a carrier for active ingredients but also plays a crucial role as a structural agent in formulations. The sustainability of BC production and processing is a central focus, highlighting the need for innovative approaches to strengthen scalability and cost-effectiveness. Future research endeavors, including the exploration of novel cultivation strategies and functionalization techniques, aim to maximize BC\'s therapeutic potential while broadening its scope in personalized skincare regimes. Therefore, this review emphasizes the crucial contribution of BC to the cosmetics sector, underlining its role in fostering innovation, sustainability, and ethical skincare practices. By integrating recent research findings and industry trends, this review proposes a fresh approach to advancing both skincare science and environmental responsibility in the cosmetics industry.

Known for its natural bio-compounds and therapeutic properties, hemp is being utilized in the development of skin products. These products offer a wide range of applications and benefits in the fields of natural bio-compounds, pharmaceutical technology, topical delivery systems, and cosmeceuticals. This manuscript deals with hemp actives, such as cannabinoids, terpenes, and flavonoids, and their diverse biological properties relative to topical application, including anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial, and antioxidant effects. Also, the paper reviews strategies to overcome poor penetration of hemp actives, as well as the integration of hemp actives in cosmeceuticals that provide natural and sustainable alternatives to traditional skincare products offering a range of benefits, including anti-aging, moisturizing, and soothing properties. The review aims to provide a comprehensive understanding of the development and manufacturing processes of skin products containing hemp actives. By delving into the science behind hemp-based products, the paper provides valuable insights into the potential of hemp as a versatile ingredient in the pharmaceutical and cosmetic industries. The utilization of hemp in these innovative products not only offers therapeutic benefits but also promotes natural and sustainable approaches to skincare.

This study aimed to extract bioactive proteins and protein hydrolysates from Apis mellifera larvae and assess their potential application in cosmetics as well as their irritation properties. The larvae were defatted and extracted using various mediums, including DI water, along with 0.5 M aqueous solutions of sodium hydroxide, ascorbic acid, citric acid, and hydrochloric acid. Subsequently, the crude proteins were hydrolyzed using the Alcalase® enzyme. All extracts underwent testing for antioxidant activities via the 2,2\'-azino-bis (3-ethylbenzothiazoline-6-sulfonic acid) and Griess assays. Anti-aging properties were evaluated in terms of anti-collagenase and anti-hyaluronidase effects. Irritation potential was assessed using the hen\'s egg chorioallantoic membrane (HET-CAM) test. The results revealed that the sodium hydroxide extraction showed promising outcomes in terms of yield, protein content, and effectiveness in inhibiting hyaluronidase, with the highest inhibition at 78.1 ± 1.5%, comparable to that of oleanolic acid. Conversely, crude protein extracted with ascorbic acid and its hydrolysate showed notable antioxidant and collagenase-inhibitory activities. Remarkably, their anti-collagenase effects were comparable to those of ascorbic acid and lysine. Additionally, it demonstrated safety upon testing with the CAM. In conclusion, the findings provided valuable insights into the utilization of A. mellifera larval proteins as active ingredients with a wide range of cosmeceutical applications, particularly due to their antioxidant, anti-aging, and low irritation properties, which hold significant promise for anti-skin wrinkles.

Skin aging is the result of physiological changes determined by genetically driven processes and intrinsic factors, and exacerbated by a combination of multiple environmental factors, the main one being sun exposure. The effects of photoaging are particularly apparent on the face, where the appearance of aging signs can have a significant impact on the emotions conveyed and well-being. Photoprotection and facial skin care for managing photoaging signs are thus of particular importance for both physical and mental health. Countries, like Australia and Brazil, where the level of sun exposure is high and the populations have predominantly outdoor lifestyles, are particularly aware of the harms of photoaging and have implemented several measures to help reduce the risk of skin cancer in their populations. However, sun-seeking behaviours are difficult to change, and it takes time before interventions provide perceptible results. Australia still has some of the highest skin cancer incidence and mortality rates in the world. Solutions that target individuals can also be used for minimizing the clinical signs of facial aging and for improving skin quality, with the ultimate aim being not only to improve the appearance of the skin but also to mitigate the occurrence of pre-malignant and malignant lesions. This review summarizes the features of facial skin photoaging in photo-exposed populations, based on evidence gained from studies of Australian individuals, and discusses the various available solutions for skin photoaging, in particular those that are most popular in Brazil, which is a country with many years of experience in managing photoaged skin.

Management of the signs of facial aging and other cosmetic skin problems have greatly evolved in the past years. People are also seeking to improve their well-being and global skin appearance, and when they consider using cosmetic procedures, they expect natural and long-lasting aesthetic results. Combined dermocosmetic approaches that address the signs of facial aging at all levels are increasingly being used by dermatologists to meet patient expectations while ensuring their safety. Minimally invasive and reversible procedures that can be performed in only one session are popular approaches for skin restructuring and volumizing as they are flexible, rapid and less burdensome for patients. These interventions can achieve even better outcomes when they are combined with cosmeceuticals as pre- or post-procedural adjuvants to prepare the skin, accelerate recovery and sustain results. The use of topical dermocosmetics is also recommended as part of the daily skin care routine to improve skin quality and help maintain skin barrier function. This review thus outlines the most commonly used combined multilevel anti-aging strategies, which start by addressing the deepest skin layers and then the more superficial signs of skin aging. Examples of multi-active cosmeceuticals and skin delivery enhancing systems are also presented, together with examples of the use of dermocosmetics as supportive care for aesthetic procedures, to provide insights into current applications of dermocosmetic products.