Abstract：
Skin aging has long been considered a purely cosmetic problem. However, as life expectancy increases, skin aging is taking on a functional dimension that goes beyond cosmetics and appearance. Preventive or therapeutic strategies are needed to target cellular senescence, a key process underlying the alterations in skin function and appearance that occur with aging, as well as to address the age-related skin changes associated with \'dermatoporosis\' and chronic skin insufficiency/fragility syndrome. Thus, given the need for effective anti-aging products that improve both the appearance and function of the skin, it is essential to distinguish active ingredients that have been proven to be effective, among the large number of available over-the-counter cosmeceuticals. This brief review focuses on a core group of topical actives, describing their clinical effects on senescence and aging, and their molecular mechanisms of action. These actives include hyaluronic acid, which has hydrating and viscoelastic properties and has been shown to reduce skin atrophy; retinaldehyde, which activates retinoid receptors and increases cutaneous elasticity; vitamins C and E, which provide stable oxidative protection; and niacinamide, which reduces inflammation and mitigates the effects of senescence.
摘要：
皮肤老化一直被认为是纯粹的美容问题。然而,随着预期寿命的增加，皮肤老化是超越化妆品和外观的功能维度。需要预防或治疗策略来靶向细胞衰老，皮肤功能和外观随衰老而改变的关键过程，以及解决与年龄相关的皮肤变化与“皮肤骨质疏松”和慢性皮肤功能不全/脆性综合征。因此，鉴于需要有效的抗衰老产品来改善皮肤的外观和功能，区分已被证明有效的活性成分至关重要，在大量可用的非处方药妆中。这篇简短的综述集中在一组核心的局部活性物质上，描述了它们对衰老和衰老的临床影响，以及它们的分子作用机制。这些活性物质包括透明质酸，它具有水合和粘弹性，并已被证明可以减少皮肤萎缩;视黄醛，激活类维生素A受体并增加皮肤弹性；维生素C和E，提供稳定的氧化保护；和烟酰胺，减少炎症并减轻衰老的影响。
