关键词: antioxidants cellular respiration cosmeceuticals dermal fillers formulation functional ingredients hyaluronic acid niacinamide skincare viscoelastics

来  源:   DOI:10.3390/antiox13040425   PDF(Pubmed)

Abstract:
Niacinamide (or nicotinamide) is a small-molecule hydrosoluble vitamin with essential metabolic functions in mammalian cells. Niacinamide has become a key functional ingredient in diverse skincare products and cosmetics. This vitamin plays a pivotal role in NAD+ synthesis, notably contributing to redox reactions and energy production in cutaneous cells. Via diversified biochemical mechanisms, niacinamide is also known to influence human DNA repair and cellular stress responses. Based on decades of safe use in cosmetics, niacinamide recently gained widespread popularity as an active ingredient which aligns with the \"Kligman standards\" in skincare. From a therapeutic standpoint, the intrinsic properties of niacinamide may be applied to managing acne vulgaris, melasma, and psoriasis. From a cosmeceutical standpoint, niacinamide has been widely leveraged as a multipurpose antiaging ingredient. Therein, it was shown to significantly reduce cutaneous oxidative stress, inflammation, and pigmentation. Overall, through multimodal mechanisms, niacinamide may be considered to partially prevent and/or reverse several biophysical changes associated with skin aging. The present narrative review provides multifactorial insights into the mechanisms of niacinamide\'s therapeutic and cosmeceutical functions. The ingredient\'s evolving role in skincare was critically appraised, with a strong focus on the biochemical mechanisms at play. Finally, novel indications and potential applications of niacinamide in dermal fillers and alternative injectable formulations were prospectively explored.
摘要:
烟酰胺(或烟酰胺)是在哺乳动物细胞中具有基本代谢功能的小分子水溶性维生素。烟酰胺已成为各种护肤品和化妆品中的关键功能成分。这种维生素在NAD+合成中起着关键作用,特别有助于皮肤细胞的氧化还原反应和能量产生。通过多样化的生化机制,还已知烟酰胺影响人类DNA修复和细胞应激反应。基于几十年来在化妆品中的安全使用,烟酰胺最近作为一种活性成分获得了广泛的欢迎,它符合护肤品中的“Kligman标准”。从治疗的角度来看,烟酰胺的内在特性可用于治疗寻常痤疮,黄褐斑,牛皮癣。从药妆学的角度来看,烟酰胺已被广泛用作多用途抗衰老成分。其中,它被证明显著降低皮肤氧化应激,炎症,和色素沉着。总的来说,通过多式联运机制,烟酰胺可部分预防和/或逆转与皮肤老化相关的多种生物物理变化。本叙事综述提供了对烟酰胺治疗和美容功能机制的多因素见解。该成分在护肤品中不断发展的作用得到了严格评估,强烈关注起作用的生化机制。最后,我们前瞻性地探索了烟酰胺在皮肤填充剂和替代注射制剂中的新适应症和潜在应用。
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