Abnormal melanogenesis can lead to hyperpigmentation. Tyrosinase (TYR), a key rate-limiting enzyme in melanin production, is an important therapeutic target for these disorders. We investigated the TYR inhibitory activity of hydrolysates extracted from the muscle tissue of Takifugu flavidus (TFMH). We used computer-aided virtual screening to identify a novel peptide that potently inhibited melanin synthesis, simulated its binding mode to TYR, and evaluated functional efficacy in vitro and in vivo. TFMH inhibited the diphenolase activities of mTYR, reducing TYR substrate binding activity and effectively inhibiting melanin synthesis. TFMH indirectly reduced cAMP response element-binding protein phosphorylation in vitro by downregulating melanocortin 1 receptor expression, thereby inhibiting expression of the microphthalmia-associated transcription factor, further decreasing TYR, tyrosinase related protein 1, and dopachrome tautomerase expression and ultimately impeding melanin synthesis. In zebrafish, TFMH significantly reduced black spot formation. TFMH (200 μg/mL) decreased zebrafish TYR activity by 43% and melanin content by 52%. Molecular dynamics simulations over 100 ns revealed that the FGFRSP (T-6) peptide stably binds mushroom TYR via hydrogen bonds and ionic interactions. T-6 (400 μmol/L) reduced melanin content in B16F10 melanoma cells by 71% and TYR activity by 79%. In zebrafish, T-6 (200 μmol/L) inhibited melanin production by 64%. TFMH and T-6 exhibit good potential for the development of natural skin-whitening cosmetic products.

Bakuchiol is gaining major interest for treatments against skin photoaging. The kinetics of mushroom tyrosinase inhibition by bakuchiol, by real-time oxygen sensing and UV-vis monitoring (475 nm), showed competitive inhibition with average Ki constant (µM, 30 °C, pH 6.8) of 6.71 ± 1.23 and 1.15 ± 0.34 for monophenolase and diphenolase reactions respectively, with respective IC50 37.22 ± 5.18 and 6.91 ± 0.96 ∼ at 1 mM substrate, compared to kojic acid IC50 34.02 ± 5.51 and 16.86 ± 3.28 μM. Fluorescence quenching showed a single binding mode with formation constant Ka 1.02 × 106 M-1. The antioxidant activity was studied by inhibited autoxidation of styrene and cumene (PhCl, 30 °C) affording inhibition constant kinh = 18.1 ± 6.6 (104M-1s-1, 30 °C) and of MeLin in Triton™ X-100 micelles giving kinh = 0.16 ± 0.03 (104M-1s-1, 37 °C). Stoichiometric factor was 1.9 ± 0.1. ReqEPR spectroscopy afforded the BDE(OH) as 81.7 ± 0.1 kcal/mol. Bakuchiol is a potent tyrosinase inhibitor with good antioxidant activity having major potential as natural food preservative against oxidation and food-browning.

In this study, ultrasound-assisted extraction (UAE) was applied to extract bioactive substances with skin-whitening, anti-wrinkle, and antioxidant effects from safflower seeds, and the extraction conditions were optimized by a central composite design. The independent variables, including extraction time (5.0~55.0 min), extraction temperature (26.0~94.0 °C), and ethanol concentration (0.0~100%), were optimized to increase tyrosinase activity inhibitory (TAI), collagenase activity inhibitory (CAI), and radical scavenging activity (RSA), which are indicators of skin-whitening, anti-wrinkle, and antioxidant effects. An extraction time of 26.4 min, extraction temperature of 52.1 °C, and ethanol concentration of 50.7% were found to be optimum conditions of UAE, under which TAI, CAI, and RSA were 53.3%, 91.5%, and 27.7%, respectively. The extract produced by UAE was analyzed by LC-MS/MS, and maleic acid and levulinic acid were identified as the main substances. Therefore, UAE is evaluated as an effective process to extract skin-whitening, anti-wrinkle, and antioxidant substances from safflower seeds at lower temperatures and shorter extraction times compared to the conventional extraction methods. Overall, safflower seeds extract can be used as a material for value-added cosmetics, including maleic acid and levulinic acid, which have bioactive functions.

Sargassum thunbergii has been traditionally used as an edible and medicinal material in oriental countries. However, the skin-whitening and anti-wrinkling effects of S. thunbergii have not yet been investigated. This study was conducted to establish optimal extraction conditions for the production of bioactive compounds with antioxidant activity as well as skin-whitening and anti-wrinkle effects using ultrasound-assisted extraction (UAE) in S. thunbergii. The extraction time (5.30~18.7 min), extraction temperature (22.4~79.6 °C), and ethanol concentration (0.0~99.5%), which are the main variables of the UAE, were optimized using a central composite design. Quadratic regression equations were derived based on experimental data and showed a high coefficient of determination (R2 > 0.85), demonstrating suitability for prediction. The optimal UAE condition for maximizing all dependent variables, including radical scavenging activity (RSA), tyrosinase inhibitory activity (TIA), and collagenase inhibitory activity (CIA), was identified as an extraction time of 12.0 min, an extraction temperature of 65.2 °C, and ethanol of 53.5%. Under these conditions, the RSA, TIA, and CIA of S. thunbergii extract were 86.5%, 88.3%, and 91.4%, respectively. We also confirmed S. thunbergii extract had inhibitory effects on the mRNA expression of tyrosinase-related protein-1, matrix metalloproteinase-1, and matrix metalloproteinase-9, which are the main genes of melanin synthesis and collagen hydrolysis. Liquid chromatography-tandem mass spectrometry was used to identify the main phenolic compounds in S. thunbergii extract, and caffeic acid was identified as a major peak, demonstrating that high value-added ingredients with skin-whitening and anti-wrinkling effects can be produced from S. thunbergii and used for developing cosmetic materials.

When skin is exposed to UV radiation, melanocytes produce melanin. Excessive melanin production leads to skin pigmentation, which causes various cosmetic and health problems. Therefore, the development of safe, natural therapeutics that inhibit the production of melanin is necessary. Elaeagnus umbellata (EU) has long been widely used as a folk medicinal plant because of pharmacological properties that include anti-ulcer, antioxidant, and anti-inflammatory properties. In this study, we investigated the antioxidant activity and melanogenesis inhibitory effects of EU fractions in B16-F10 melanoma cells. EU fractions showed a dose-dependent increase in antioxidant activity in radical scavenging activity. In addition, we evaluated the effect of EU fractions on tyrosinase activity and melanogenesis in α-melanocyte-stimulating hormone-induced B16-F10 melanoma cells. EU was noncytotoxic at 12.5-50 μg/mL. EU fractions effectively inhibited tyrosinase activity and melanogenesis, suppressed the phosphorylation of CREB and ERK involved in the melanogenesis pathway, and down-regulated expression of melanogenesis-related proteins. Interestingly, the anti-melanogenesis effect was most effective at a concentration of 50 μg/mL EU, and the effects of the fractions were superior to those of the extract. Therefore, our study suggests that EU has potential as a safe treatment for excessive pigmentation or as a natural ingredient in cosmetics.

Response surface methodology was employed to optimize the ultrasound-assisted extraction (UAE) conditions for simultaneous optimization of dependent variables, including DPPH radical scavenging activity (RSA), tyrosinase activity inhibition (TAI), and collagenase activity inhibition (CAI) of peanut shell extracts. The effects of the main variables including extraction time (5.0~55.0 min, X1), extraction temperature (26.0~94.0 °C, X2), and ethanol concentration (0.0%~99.5%, X3) were optimized. Based on experimental values from each condition, quadratic regression models were derived for the prediction of optimum conditions. The coefficient of determination (R2) of the independent variable was in the range of 0.89~0.96, which demonstrates that the regression model is suitable for the prediction. In predicting optimal UAE conditions based on the superimposing method, extraction time of 31.2 min, extraction temperature of 36.6 °C, and ethanol concentration of 93.2% were identified. Under these conditions, RSA of 74.9%, TAI of 50.6%, and CAI of 86.8% were predicted, showing good agreement with the experimental values. A reverse transcription polymerase chain reaction showed that peanut shell extract decreased mRNA levels of tyrosinase-related protein-1 and matrix metalloproteinase-3 genes in B16-F0 cell. Therefore, we identified the skin-whitening and anti-wrinkle effects of peanut shell extracts at protein as well as gene expression levels, and the results show that peanut shell is an effective cosmetic material for skin-whitening and anti-wrinkle effects. Based on this study, peanut shell, which was considered a byproduct, can be used for the development of healthy foods, medicines, and cosmetics.

BACKGROUND: Sapindus mukorossi Gaertn. (S. mukorossi), known as \'mu huan zi\' in Chinese folklore, belongs to the family Sapindaceae and it has been traditionally used for treating coughing and excessive salivation, removing freckle, whitening skin, etc. Evidence-based medicine also verified the antimicrobial, anti-tyrosinase and anti-acne activity of S. mukorossi extract, suggesting that it has the potential to be a pharmaceutical and cosmetic additive.
OBJECTIVE: The present study was intended to evaluate the freckle-removing and skin-whitening activities of S. mukorossi extracts, and further analyzing the potential anti-acne mechanism.
METHODS: Saponin fractions were purified by using the semi-preparative high-performance liquid chromatography, and their antibacterial activity was detected against Propionibacterium acnes (P. acnes), which was the leading cause of inflamed lesions in acne vulgaris. The anti-lipase and anti-tyrosinase activities were assayed using a commercial kit, while the potential anti-acne mechanism was predicted on the basis of the network pharmacology. Active components of saponin fraction were identified by HPLC-MS analysis. Furthermore, the different toxicity level of compounds was predicted according to the quantitative structure-activity relationship, and the first application of crude extract and saponin fraction to facial masks was analyzed based on the comprehensive evaluation method.
RESULTS: The saponin fraction (F4) purified from the fermentation liquid-based water extract (SWF) showed the best antibacterial activity against P. acnes ATCC 6919 with the MIC of 0.06 mg/mL, which was 33-fold of its parent SWF (with the MIC of 2.0 mg/mL). Compared with SWF, the application of F4 caused greater inhibition rates on lipase and tyrosinase. Chemical constituents of F4 were evaluated, from which four oleanane-type triterpenoid saponins were detected to contribute to the above biological activities of F4. The mechanism of the four compounds on anti-acne was predicted, and seven targets such as PTGS2 and F2RL1 were obtained to be important for the treatment of acne. The four compounds were also predicted to have different levels of toxicity to various species, and they were not harmful to rats. Besides, F4 and SWF were applied to facial masks and there was no significant influence on the physicochemical properties including pH, stability, and sensory characteristics.
CONCLUSIONS: This work demonstrated that oleanane-type triterpenoid saponins were speculated to contribute to the skin-whitening, freckle-removing, and anti-acne activities of F4. These findings will facilitate the development of the S. mukorossi extract and the allied products as the new and natural anti-acne agent and cosmetic additives.

This study determined the composition of the monosaccharide, 3, 6-anhydrogalactose (AnGal), in red algae and explored the potential whitening activity of the extract. Using gas chromatography-mass spectrometry (GC-MS), the AnGal composition of six different species of red seaweed (Porphyra haitanensis, Gracilaria chouae, Gracilaria blodgettii, Gracilaria lemaneiformis, Eucheuma galetinae, and Gelidium amansii) was successfully analyzed, revealing molar ratios ranging from 1.0:1.0 to 1.0:3.1 of AnGal and galactose (Gal), respectively. Employing the tyrosinase inhibition assay, the skin-whitening effect of AnGal red seaweed polysaccharides was determined. Polysaccharides from P. haitanensis, G. chouae, and G. blodgettii as well as their degradation products showed higher tyrosinase inhibitory activity (inhibition rates 24.2-26.8%). These results suggest that the GC-MS approach could conveniently be used in quality control or for the quantitative determination of AnGal and Gal in red seaweed polysaccharides as well as exploring their potential application in cosmetic and functional food products. The findings here exhibited that red seaweed polysaccharides and their degradation products were potential ingredients for cosmeceutical industries.

It is well known that terrestrial environments host an immense microbial biodiversity. Exposed to different types of stress, such as UV radiation, temperature fluctuations, water availability and the inter- / intra-specific competition for resources, terrestrial microorganisms have been evolved to produce a large spectrum of bioactive molecules. Bacteria, archaea, protists, fungi and algae have shown a high potential of producing biomolecules for pharmaceutical or other industrial purposes as they combine a sustainable, relatively low-cost and fast-production process. Herein, we provide an overview of the different bioactive molecules produced by terrestrial microorganisms with skin protecting applications. The high content in polyphenolic and carotenoid compounds produced by several strains, as well as the presence of exopolysaccharides, melanins, indole and pyrrole derivatives, mycosporines, carboxylic acids and other molecules, are discussed in the context of their antioxidant, photo-protective and skin-whitening activity. Relevant biotechnological tools developed for the enhanced production of high added value natural products, as well as the protecting effect of some antioxidant, hydrolytic and degrading enzymes are also discussed. Furthermore, we describe classes of microbial compounds that are used or have the potential to be used as antimicrobials, moisturizers, biosurfactants, pigments, flavorings and fragrances.

The cosmetics industry is one of the most profitable in the world today. This multi-billion-dollar industry has a profound sociological impact worldwide. Its influence is global, with most individuals being concerned with conserving their physical appearance, beauty, and youth. The consumers\' desire for novel, better, and safer products has stimulated the utilization of natural-product-based cosmeceutical formulations over synthetic chemicals. With remarkable advancements in marine bioresource technology, algal polysaccharides have gained much attention as bioactive ingredients in cosmeceuticals. Algae biosynthesize a variety of polysaccharides including fucoidans, alginates, carrageenans, galactans, agar, porphyran, glucans, and ulvans, all of which exhibit distinctive structural and functional properties. Many of these materials have been proven to possess skin-protective effects, including anti-wrinkle, lightening, moisturizing, UV protective, antioxidative, and anti-inflammatory activity. Moreover, they have a wide spectrum of physicochemical properties, such as the ability to form hydrogels, which extend their utilization as emulsifiers, stabilizers, and viscosity controlling ingredients in cosmeceuticals. Accordingly, algal hydrocolloids and their synthetic derivatives can also be applied in tissue engineering and cosmetic surgery. The challenge is to increase awareness about these polysaccharides and consequently generate value-added products. This review discusses the beneficial biological and physicochemical properties of algal polysaccharides, highlighting their potential in cosmeceutical applications.