Abnormal melanogenesis can lead to hyperpigmentation. Tyrosinase (TYR), a key rate-limiting enzyme in melanin production, is an important therapeutic target for these disorders. We investigated the TYR inhibitory activity of hydrolysates extracted from the muscle tissue of Takifugu flavidus (TFMH). We used computer-aided virtual screening to identify a novel peptide that potently inhibited melanin synthesis, simulated its binding mode to TYR, and evaluated functional efficacy in vitro and in vivo. TFMH inhibited the diphenolase activities of mTYR, reducing TYR substrate binding activity and effectively inhibiting melanin synthesis. TFMH indirectly reduced cAMP response element-binding protein phosphorylation in vitro by downregulating melanocortin 1 receptor expression, thereby inhibiting expression of the microphthalmia-associated transcription factor, further decreasing TYR, tyrosinase related protein 1, and dopachrome tautomerase expression and ultimately impeding melanin synthesis. In zebrafish, TFMH significantly reduced black spot formation. TFMH (200 μg/mL) decreased zebrafish TYR activity by 43% and melanin content by 52%. Molecular dynamics simulations over 100 ns revealed that the FGFRSP (T-6) peptide stably binds mushroom TYR via hydrogen bonds and ionic interactions. T-6 (400 μmol/L) reduced melanin content in B16F10 melanoma cells by 71% and TYR activity by 79%. In zebrafish, T-6 (200 μmol/L) inhibited melanin production by 64%. TFMH and T-6 exhibit good potential for the development of natural skin-whitening cosmetic products.

BACKGROUND: Sapindus mukorossi Gaertn. (S. mukorossi), known as \'mu huan zi\' in Chinese folklore, belongs to the family Sapindaceae and it has been traditionally used for treating coughing and excessive salivation, removing freckle, whitening skin, etc. Evidence-based medicine also verified the antimicrobial, anti-tyrosinase and anti-acne activity of S. mukorossi extract, suggesting that it has the potential to be a pharmaceutical and cosmetic additive.
OBJECTIVE: The present study was intended to evaluate the freckle-removing and skin-whitening activities of S. mukorossi extracts, and further analyzing the potential anti-acne mechanism.
METHODS: Saponin fractions were purified by using the semi-preparative high-performance liquid chromatography, and their antibacterial activity was detected against Propionibacterium acnes (P. acnes), which was the leading cause of inflamed lesions in acne vulgaris. The anti-lipase and anti-tyrosinase activities were assayed using a commercial kit, while the potential anti-acne mechanism was predicted on the basis of the network pharmacology. Active components of saponin fraction were identified by HPLC-MS analysis. Furthermore, the different toxicity level of compounds was predicted according to the quantitative structure-activity relationship, and the first application of crude extract and saponin fraction to facial masks was analyzed based on the comprehensive evaluation method.
RESULTS: The saponin fraction (F4) purified from the fermentation liquid-based water extract (SWF) showed the best antibacterial activity against P. acnes ATCC 6919 with the MIC of 0.06 mg/mL, which was 33-fold of its parent SWF (with the MIC of 2.0 mg/mL). Compared with SWF, the application of F4 caused greater inhibition rates on lipase and tyrosinase. Chemical constituents of F4 were evaluated, from which four oleanane-type triterpenoid saponins were detected to contribute to the above biological activities of F4. The mechanism of the four compounds on anti-acne was predicted, and seven targets such as PTGS2 and F2RL1 were obtained to be important for the treatment of acne. The four compounds were also predicted to have different levels of toxicity to various species, and they were not harmful to rats. Besides, F4 and SWF were applied to facial masks and there was no significant influence on the physicochemical properties including pH, stability, and sensory characteristics.
CONCLUSIONS: This work demonstrated that oleanane-type triterpenoid saponins were speculated to contribute to the skin-whitening, freckle-removing, and anti-acne activities of F4. These findings will facilitate the development of the S. mukorossi extract and the allied products as the new and natural anti-acne agent and cosmetic additives.

This study determined the composition of the monosaccharide, 3, 6-anhydrogalactose (AnGal), in red algae and explored the potential whitening activity of the extract. Using gas chromatography-mass spectrometry (GC-MS), the AnGal composition of six different species of red seaweed (Porphyra haitanensis, Gracilaria chouae, Gracilaria blodgettii, Gracilaria lemaneiformis, Eucheuma galetinae, and Gelidium amansii) was successfully analyzed, revealing molar ratios ranging from 1.0:1.0 to 1.0:3.1 of AnGal and galactose (Gal), respectively. Employing the tyrosinase inhibition assay, the skin-whitening effect of AnGal red seaweed polysaccharides was determined. Polysaccharides from P. haitanensis, G. chouae, and G. blodgettii as well as their degradation products showed higher tyrosinase inhibitory activity (inhibition rates 24.2-26.8%). These results suggest that the GC-MS approach could conveniently be used in quality control or for the quantitative determination of AnGal and Gal in red seaweed polysaccharides as well as exploring their potential application in cosmetic and functional food products. The findings here exhibited that red seaweed polysaccharides and their degradation products were potential ingredients for cosmeceutical industries.

The red maple (Acer rubrum) is a rich source of phenolic compounds which possess galloyl groups attached to different positions of a 1,5-anhydro-D-glucitol core. While these glucitol-core containing gallotannins (GCGs) have reported anti-oxidant and anti-glycative effects, they have not yet been evaluated for their cosmetic applications. Herein, the anti-tyrosinase and anti-melanogenic effects of a proprietary phenolic-enriched red maple leaves extract [Maplifa™; contains ca. 45% ginnalin A (GA) along with other GCGs] were investigated using enzyme and cellular assays. The GCGs showed anti-tyrosinase activity with IC50 values ranging from 101.4 to 1047.3 μM and their mechanism of tyrosinase inhibition (using GA as a representative GCG) was evaluated by chelating and computational/modeling studies. GA reduced melanin content in murine melanoma B16F10 cells by 79.1 and 56.7% (at non-toxic concentrations of 25 and 50 μM, respectively), and its mechanisms of anti-melanogenic effects were evaluated by using methods including fluorescent probe (DCF-DA), real-time PCR, and western blot experiments. These data indicated that GA was able to: (1) reduce the levels of reactive oxygen species, (2) down-regulate the expression of MITF, TYR, TRP-1, and TRP-2 gene levels in a time-dependent manner, and (3) significantly reduce protein expression of the TRP-2 gene. Therefore, the anti-melanogenic effects of red maple GCGs warrant further investigation of this proprietary natural product extract for potential cosmetic applications.