In this study, edible bird\'s nest (EBN) was proven to be a suitable source of bioactive peptides via enzymatic hydrolysis. The ultrafiltration component of the EBN peptides (EBNPs, Mw < 3 000 Da) could be responsible for moderate moisture retention and filaggrin synthesis. It was found that EBNP had a great capacity to protect HaCaT keratinocytes from DNA damage caused by UVB-irradiation and enhance wound healing by increasing the migratory and proliferative potential of cells. Furthermore, the external application of EBNP could effectively repair high glycolic acid concentration-induced skin burns in mice. A total of 1 188 peptides, predominantly the hydrophobic amino acids (e.g., Leu, Val, Tyr, Phe), were identified in the EBNP by liquid chromatography with tandem mass spectrometry (LC-MS/MS). Molecular docking showed that hydrophobic tripeptides from EBNP had a good binding affinity to proton-dependent oligopeptide transporter PepT1. Our data indicated that the hydrophobic amino acid-rich EBNP plays an important role in skin wound healing.

Red rice, a variety of pigmented grain, serves dual purposes as both a food and medicinal resource. In recent years, we have witnessed an increasing interest in the dermatological benefits of fermented rice extracts, particularly their whitening and hydrating effects. However, data on the skincare advantages derived from fermenting red rice with Aspergillus oryzae remain sparse. This study utilized red rice as a substrate for fermentation by Aspergillus oryzae, producing a substance known as red rice Aspergillus oryzae fermentation (RRFA). We conducted a preliminary analysis of RRFA\'s composition followed by an evaluation of its skincare potential through various in vitro tests. Our objective was to develop a safe and highly effective skincare component for potential cosmetic applications. RRFA\'s constituents were assessed using high-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC), Kjeldahl nitrogen determination, the phenol-sulfuric acid method, and enzyme-linked immunosorbent assay (ELISA). We employed human dermal fibroblasts (FB) to assess RRFA\'s anti-aging and antioxidative properties, immortalized keratinocytes (HaCaT cells) and 3D epidermal models to examine its moisturizing and reparative capabilities, and human primary melanocytes (MCs) to study its effects on skin lightening. Our findings revealed that RRFA encompasses several bioactive compounds beneficial for skin health. RRFA can significantly promote the proliferation of FB cells. And it markedly enhances the mRNA expression of ECM-related anti-aging genes and reduces reactive oxygen species production. Furthermore, RRFA significantly boosts the expression of Aquaporin 3 (AQP3), Filaggrin (FLG), and Hyaluronan Synthase 1 (HAS1) mRNA, alongside elevating moisture levels in a 3D epidermal model. Increases were also observed in the mRNA expression of Claudin 1 (CLDN1), Involucrin (IVL), and Zonula Occludens-1 (ZO-1) in keratinocytes. Additionally, RRFA demonstrated an inhibitory effect on melanin synthesis. Collectively, RRFA contains diverse ingredients which are beneficial for skin health and showcases multifaceted skincare effects in terms of anti-aging, antioxidant, moisturizing, repairing, and whitening capabilities in vitro, highlighting its potential for future cosmetic applications.

Camellia oleifera oil (CO oil) extracted from C. oleifera seeds has a 2300-year consumption history in China. However, there is relatively little research regarding its non-edible uses. This study determined the physicochemical properties of CO oil extracted via direct pressing, identified its main components using GC-MS, and evaluated its antioxidant, moisturizing, and anti-inflammatory activities. The results revealed that CO oil\'s acid, peroxide, iodine, and saponification values were 1.06 ± 0.031 mg/g, 0.24 ± 0.01 g/100 g, 65.14 ± 8.22 g/100 g, and 180.41 ± 5.60 mg/g, respectively. CO oil\'s tocopherol, polyphenol, and squalene contents were 82.21 ± 9.07 mg/kg, 181.37 ± 3.76 mg/kg, and 53.39 ± 6.58 mg/kg, respectively; its unsaturated fatty acid (UFA) content was 87.44%, and its saturated fatty acid (SFA) content was 12.56%. CO oil also demonstrated excellent moisture retention properties, anti-inflammatory effects, and certain free radical scavenging. A highly stable CO oil emulsion with competent microbiological detection was developed using formulation optimization. Using CO oil in the emulsion significantly improved the formulation\'s antioxidant and moisturizing properties compared with those of the emulsion formulation that did not include CO oil. The prepared emulsion was not cytotoxic to cells and could reduce cells\' NO content; therefore, it may have potential nutritional value in medicine and cosmetics.

BACKGROUND: It is known that heparinoid, a mucopolysaccharide polysulfate, is effective in improving rough skin and promoting blood circulation as medicines for diseased areas. However, heparinoid has a molecular weight of more than 5000 and cannot penetrate healthy stratum corneum.
OBJECTIVE: We tested the efficacy of sulfated oligosaccharides with a molecular weight of less than 2000 on the human skin barrier function and moisturizing function.
METHODS: We measured the transepidermal water loss (TEWL) of a three-dimensional human epidermis model cultured for 3 days after topical application of sulfated oligosaccharides, then observed the effects on TEWL suppression. The mRNA levels of proteins involved in intercellular lipid transport and storage in the stratum corneum, and moisture retention were measured using RT-qPCR.
RESULTS: An increase in the mRNA levels of the ATP-binding cassette subfamily A member 12 (ABCA12), which transports lipids into stratum granulosum, was confirmed. Increases were also observed in the mRNA levels of filaggrin (FLG), which is involved in the generation of natural moisturizing factors, and of caspase-14, calpain-1 and bleomycin hydrolase, which are involved in the degradation of FLG. Antibody staining confirmed that the application of sodium trehalose sulfate to 3D model skin resulted in more ABCA12, ceramide, transglutaminase1, and FLG than those in controls. In a randomized, placebo-controlled, double-blind study, participants with low stratum corneum water content applied a lotion and emulsion containing sodium trehalose sulfate to their faces for 4 weeks. Sodium trehalose sulfate decreased the TEWL and increased the stratum corneum water content.
CONCLUSIONS: These results suggest that cosmetics containing sodium trehalose sulfate act on the epidermis by increasing barrier factors and moisturizing factors, thereby ameliorating dry skin.

Facial masks have become ubiquitous in our daily life to endow skin enough moisture and activated nutrition through mask nonwovens infused with skincare ingredients. However, the active nutrients in wet masks are prone to deterioration and deactivation. Herein, a novel multifunctional nanofiber dry mask was successfully prepared using aqueous-electrospun phenolic acid grafted chitosan/collagen peptides. When used, the functional nanofibers in the mask dissolve through spraying moisture, activating active ingredients in response to water and providing in-situ free radical scavenging, moisturizing and antibacterial effects to the skin. In this work, a series of gallic acid (GA), caffeic acid (CA), and protocatechuic acid (PA) have been studied to be grafted with chitosan to improve water solubility of chitosan (CS). Also, through aqueous electrospinning of phenolic acid-grafted chitosan/collagen peptides, a one-step green multifunctional nanofiber mask was obtained. The results showed that the mask had a 12.14 % moisturizing rate and a 94.09 % activity for removing free radicals from the skin after encountering moisture. Considering its high efficiency, controllable function release, and easy processability, the nanofiber multifunctional mask may provide a competitive alternative to facial masks and promote potential value-added applications of bio-based macro-molecules.

Skin is the largest and outermost organ in the human body; it serves as a vital defense mechanism against various external threats. Therefore, it is crucial to maintain its health through protection against harmful substances and adequate moisture levels. This study investigates the anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and moisturizing properties of Oxyceros horridus Lour. (Oh-EE) in human keratinocytes. Oh-EE demonstrates potent antioxidant activity and effectively protects against oxidative stress induced by external stimuli such as UVB radiation and H2O2. Additionally, it exhibits significant anti-inflammatory effects proven by its ability to downregulate the expression of pro-inflammatory cytokines, namely COX-2 and IL-6. The study also explores the involvement of the AP-1 pathway, highlighting the ability of Oh-EE to suppress the expression of p38 and its upstream regulator, MKK3/6, under UVB-induced conditions. Interestingly, Oh-EE can activate the AP-1 pathway in the absence of external triggers. Furthermore, Oh-EE enhances skin moisture by upregulating the expression of key genes involved in skin hydration, namely HAS3 and FLG. These findings underscore the potential of Oh-EE as a versatile ingredient in skincare formulations, providing a range of skin benefits. Further research is warranted to comprehensively understand the underlying mechanisms through which Oh-EE exerts its effects.

Polysaccharides possess excellent moisturizing effects due to their abundance of hydrophilic groups and film-forming properties. Additionally, they can produce a refreshing aroma during the pyrolysis process. However, there is scarce research on their application in the tobacco field. Herein, we investigated the effects of low molecular weight fenugreek polysaccharide (FP) obtained through ethanol fractionation and DEAE-52 cellulose column chromatography on moisture retention and aroma enhancement in tobacco. The moisture retention test revealed that the addition of FP increased the moisture retention index (MRI) of tobacco by 11.72 %-16.69 %, indicating that the hydrophilic nature of polysaccharides facilitated the migration of free water in tobacco to bound water, resulting in reduced water activity. Moreover, the contact angle between polysaccharide and tobacco was <90°, enabling better infiltration into tobacco and slowing down tobacco shrinkage caused by water loss. Among all the components, EFP-20 and EFP-40 demonstrated superior performance. Furthermore, FP exhibited excellent thermal stability below 200 °C and can decomposed to produce aromatic substances at high temperatures. It also demonstrated the ability to adsorb ethyl heptanoate and thermally decompose to produce a substantial amount of heptanoic acid. Consequently, the incorporation of FP in tobacco demonstrated favorable effects on both moisturization and aroma enhancement.

Among lifestyle habits, the effect of exercise on skin moisturizing function has not been studied. Therefore, we aimed to clarify the effect of regular exercise on skin moisturizing function. The participants were 30-64 years old with no history of skin diseases and no exercise habits at the start of the study. The intervention group (n=9) continued to exercise at least 600 Mets/week for 8 weeks, while the control group (n=28) followed conventional lifestyle habits for 8 weeks. Questionnaires regarding lifestyle habits were administered at the beginning and after 8 weeks, and skin moisturizing function (stratum corneum hydration: SC hydration, Trans-Epidermal Water Loss: TEWL) was measured. Analysis of covariance was performed using sex, age, and measurements at the start of the study as covariates. Analysis of covariance showed that after 8 weeks of \"moderate\" or \"higher\" exercise, there was a trend toward higher SC hydration in the intervention group compared to that in the control group (p=0.083, η2=0.10). There was no difference in TEWL after 8 weeks (p=0.864, η2=0.00). These results suggest that regular exercise may help maintain and improve skin moisturizing function.

The development of injectable hydrogel dressings which are long-term moisturizing, easy-to-apply, and effectively inhibiting infection and inflammatory is essential to promote burn wound repairing. Herein, an injectable hydrogel with moisturizing, antibacterial, and anti-inflammation abilities via multiple reversible interactions between cation guar gum (CG) and metallic-polyphenolic nanoparticles (PA-ZnII NPs) is developed. Specifically, PA-ZnII NPs is formed by synergistic complexation of protocatechualdehyde (PA) and zinc ion (Zn2+ ), provides CGPZ hydrogel with plentiful reversible interactions to inhibit the loss of moist. By interacting with PA-ZnII NPs, the CGPZ hydrogel can provide enhanced moisturization for more than 3 days. Moreover, the CGPZ hydrogel can maintain good adhesion for a period of time with injection and self-healing capabilities due to reversible interactions between CG and PA-ZnII NPs. In addition, CGPZ hydrogel exhibits outstanding broad spectrum antibacterial performance, as its killing efficiency against Escherichia coli and Staphylococcus aureus is all greater than 99.99%. Importantly, compared with commercial dressing, the CGPZ hydrogel can promote wound healing faster by inhibiting tissue damage from dysregulated inflammation and accelerating neovascularization. It is believed that the moisturizing CGPZ hydrogel with antibacterial and anti-inflammation performance can serve as a promising dressing for the effective treatment of burn wound.

Most sheet facial masks for skincare are made of nonwovens and loaded with liquid active ingredients, which are usually opaque and require additives for long-term preservation. Herein, a Transparent Additive-Free Fibrous (TAFF) facial mask is reported for skin moisturizing. The TAFF facial mask consists of a bilayer fibrous membrane. The inner layer is fabricated by electrospinning functional components of gelatin (GE) and hyaluronic acid (HA) into a solid fibrous membrane to get rid of additives, the outer layer is an ultrathin PA6 fibrous membrane that is highly transparent, especially after absorbing water. The results indicate that the GE-HA membrane can quickly absorb water and become a transparent hydrogel film. By employing the hydrophobic PA6 membrane as the outer layer, directional water transport is achieved, which enables TAFF facial mask with excellent skin moisturizing effect. The skin moisture content is up to 84% ± 7% after placing the TAFF facial mask on the skin for 10 min. In addition, the relative transparency of the TAFF facial mask on the skin reaches 97.0% ± 1.9% when ultrathin PA6 membrane is used as the outer layer. The design of the transparent additive-free facial mask may serve as a guideline for developing new functional facial masks.