The barrier function of the skin is primarily located in the stratum corneum (SC), the outermost layer of the skin. The SC is composed of dead cells with highly organized lipid lamellae in the intercellular space. As the lipid matrix forms the only continuous pathway, the lipids play an important role in the permeation of compounds through the SC. The main lipid classes are ceramides (CERs), cholesterol (CHOL) and free fatty acids (FFAs). Analysis of the SC lipid matrix is of crucial importance in understanding the skin barrier function, not only in healthy skin, but also in inflammatory skin diseases with an impaired skin barrier. In this review we provide i) a historical overview of the steps undertaken to obtain information on the lipid composition and organization in SC of healthy skin and inflammatory skin diseases, ii) information on the role CERs, CHOL and FFAs play in the lipid phase behavior of very complex lipid model systems and how this knowledge can be used to understand the deviation in lipid phase behavior in inflammatory skin diseases, iii) knowledge on the role of both, CER subclasses and chain length distribution, on lipid organization and lipid membrane permeability in complex and simple model systems with synthetic CERs, CHOL and FFAs, iv) similarity in lipid phase behavior in SC of different species and complex model systems, and vi) future directions in modulating lipid composition that is expected to improve the skin barrier in inflammatory skin diseases.

Skin\'s effectiveness as a barrier to permeation of water and other chemicals rests almost entirely in the outermost layer of the epidermis, the stratum corneum (SC), which consists of layers of corneocytes surrounded by highly organized lipid lamellae. As the only continuous path through the SC, transdermal permeation necessarily involves diffusion through these lipid layers. The role of the SC as a protective barrier is supported by its exceptional lipid composition consisting of ceramides (CERs), cholesterol (CHOL), and free fatty acids (FFAs) and the complete absence of phospholipids, which are present in most biological membranes. Molecular simulation, which provides molecular level detail of lipid configurations that can be connected with barrier function, has become a popular tool for studying SC lipid systems. We review this ever-increasing body of literature with the goals of (1) enabling the experimental skin community to understand, interpret and use the information generated from the simulations, (2) providing simulation experts with a solid background in the chemistry of SC lipids including the composition, structure and organization, and barrier function, and (3) presenting a state of the art picture of the field of SC lipid simulations, highlighting the difficulties and best practices for studying these systems, to encourage the generation of robust reproducible studies in the future. This review describes molecular simulation methodology and then critically examines results derived from simulations using atomistic and then coarse-grained models.

BACKGROUND: The purpose of this pilot study was to provide information about the washout-dependent depletion of important skin components in the horny layer of the scalp. They were taken as markers for scalp drying effects of cosmetic cleansing products and were measured directly in vivo.
METHODS: In vivo confocal Raman spectroscopy was used to measure the depletion of the total natural moisturizing factor (total NMF) and some of its components (urea and lactic acid) as well as a fraction of stratum corneum lipids, after repeated washing with a standard shampoo on the human scalp.
RESULTS: The measurements showed a reduction in the amount of NMF and lipids of the stratum corneum caused by repeated shampooing.
CONCLUSIONS: Confocal Raman spectroscopy is an innovative technology that can be used successfully in vivo on the hairy scalp. The loss of the most important skin components caused by hair washing can be quantified directly with this technology. The method is valuable to support the development cosmetic cleansing products, as it is suitable to directly compare the effects of different product candidates on the human scalp in a most realistic way.

Disrupted skin barrier, one of the severe attributes of inflammatory skin diseases, is caused by lower content and pathological changes of lipids in the uppermost skin layer-stratum corneum (SC). Restoring skin barrier with native skin lipids, especially ceramides (Cers), appears to be a promising therapy with minimum side effects. For testing the efficiency of these formulations, suitable in vitro models of the skin with disrupted barriers are needed. For the similarity with the human tissue, our models were based on the pig ear skin. Three different ways of skin barrier disruption were tested and compared: tape stripping, lipid extraction with organic solvents, and barrier disruption by sodium lauryl sulfate. The level of barrier disruption was investigated by permeation studies, and parameters of each method were modified to reach significant changes between the non-disrupted skin and our model. Fourier transform infrared (FTIR) spectroscopy was employed to elucidate the changes of the skin permeability on the molecular scale. Further, the potential of the developed models to be restored by skin barrier repairing agents was evaluated by the same techniques. We observed a significant decrease in permeation characteristics through our in vitro models treated with the lipid mixtures compared to the untreated damaged skin, which implied that the skin barrier was substantially restored. Taken together, the results suggest that our in vitro models are suitable for the screening of potential barrier repairing agents.

A prospective clinical trial was carried out in a 6-week-old male Jack Russell terrier with congenital ichthyosis to evaluate stratum corneum lipids; transmission electron microscopy of skin specimens; and clinical and dermatopathological response to vitamin A alcohol therapy. Also evaluated were the clinical, dermatopathological, and epidermal cell proliferation kinetics response to a synthetic retinoid in a dog with congenital ichthyosis.  Epidermal cell renewal time was markedly decreased compared with normal and seborrhoeic dogs. Skin specimens were characterized by severe and diffuse compact orthokeratosis that extended into the infundi-bulum of the hair follicles. The stratum granulosum was normal. On transmission electron microscopy, the stratum corneum was thickened and intercorneocyte spaces were extremely narrow. The first three corneocyte layers contained tonofilaments that were irregular, coarse and wavy. Tonofilament packing appeared more normal and regular in the fourth and fifth corneocyte layers. Outer layers of stratum corneum were extraordinarily electron-dense compared with normal. There was a decrease in stratum corneum free fatty acid and acyl-ceramide and an increase in ceramide III levels compared with three normal dogs. Three months of oral vitamin A alcohol did not result in clinical improvement, although histologically the orthokeratosis was less compact. After 6 months of oral etretinate therapy, comedones and scales were markedly less evident grossly. Although compact orthokeratosis was still present on histological examination of skin, it was less than that present at 6 weeks of age. Epidermal cell kinetics were not altered after etretinate therapy.

Alkanediols are widely used as multifunctional ingredients in dermal formulations. In addition to their preservative effect, considering their possible impact on drug penetration is also essential for their use. In the present study, the influence of 2-methyl-2,4-pentanediol, 1,2-pentanediol, 1,2-hexanediol and 1,2-octanediol on the skin penetration of triamcinolone acetonide from four different semisolid formulations was investigated. Furthermore, confocal Raman spectroscopy measurements were performed to examine the influence of the alkanediols on stratum corneum lipid content and order. Alkanediols were found to increase the penetration of triamcinolone acetonide. However, the extent depends strongly on the formulation used. In certain formulations, 1,2-pentanediol showed the highest effect, while in others the penetration-enhancing effect increased with the alkyl chain length of the alkanediol used. None of the tested alkanediols extracted lipids from the stratum corneum nor reduced its thickness. Notwithstanding the above, the longer-chained alkanediols cause the lipids to be converted to a more disordered state, which favors drug penetration. This behavior could not be detected for the shorter-chained alkanediols. Therefore, their penetration-enhancing effect is supposed to be related to an interaction with the hydrophilic regions of the stratum corneum.

Diseases related to a disrupted skin barrier are accompanied by lower levels of ceramides in the stratum corneum (SC) lipid matrix. Delivering ceramides directly into damaged skin is a viable alternative to conventional corticosteroids, but is hindered by their low skin bioavailability and limited nanoformulation ability. Here, we developed stable liposomal systems containing ceramides and other SC lipids, and tested their effectiveness in skin barrier repair. Lipid film hydration and high-pressure homogenization were used to prepare different types of liposomes. To determine the stability, the particle size and polydispersity index were measured. The optimal systems were found to include ceramide 3 and 6, cholesterol and stearic acid, with 10% urea in phosphate-buffered saline as the aqueous phase. The ability of the system to repair chemically-damaged porcine skin was tested. While treatment by a standard lipid suspension reduced the passage of a model permeant only to a limited extent, drug flux through the liposomally-treated skin was much closer to permeation through intact skin. The non-homogenized liposomes were more effective than their homogenized version. These findings were also confirmed by FTIR measurements. This suggests that our approach to liposomal development has considerable potential for the repair of a disrupted skin barrier.

Ceramides (Cers) are significant constituents of the stratum corneum (SC), the uppermost skin layer responsible for skin barrier properties. Cers are a heterogeneous group of lipids whose mutual interactions are still unclear. To better understand these interactions, we characterized model membranes containing stearic acid, cholesterol, cholesterol sulfate and one or more of the following ceramides: N-stearoyl-sphingosine (CerNS), N-stearoyl-phytosphingosine (CerNP) and N-(2-hydroxy)stearoyl-phytosphingosine (CerAP). Small angle X-ray scattering and FTIR spectroscopy were used to study lipid arrangement, phase separation and thermotropic behaviour. In the one-Cer systems, the membranes with CerNP showed strong hydrogen bonding and significant phase separation, even after phase transition, while the systems containing CerAP and CerNS had increased lipid miscibility. The multi-Cer systems exhibited different behaviour. In particular, the membrane containing all three Cers was a highly miscible system with narrow one-step phase transition, which, of all the studied samples, occurred at the lowest temperatures. Our results show that even a small variation in Cer structure results in substantially different phase behaviour, which is further affected by the presence of other Cer subclasses. Interestingly, the phase behaviour of the most complex three-Cer system was simpler than that of the others, highlighting the importance of lipid diversity in real SC.

The measurement of skin electrical resistance (SER) has drawn a great deal of attention for the rapid screening of transdermal penetration enhancers (PEs). However, the mechanisms underlying the SER measurement are still unclear. This study was to investigate the effects and mechanisms of seven oxygen-containing terpenes on the SER kinetics. Stratum corneum (SC) lipids were proved to play a key role in SER measurement. Then, the factors affecting the SER measurement were optimized. By the determination of SER kinetics, cyclic terpenes (1,8-cineole, terpinen-4-ol, menthol and α-terpineol) were demonstrated to possess higher enhancement ratio (ER) values compared with linear terpenes (linalool, geraniol and citral). For the first time, the linear correlation was found between ER of terpenes and the interaction energy of terpene⁻ceramide complexes revealed by molecular simulation. The attenuated total reflection-Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy (ATR-FTIR) analysis revealed that the effect of cyclic terpenes on SC lipid arrangement was obviously stronger than that of linear terpenes. In addition, by evaluating HaCaT skin cell viability, little difference was found between the toxicities of cyclic and linear terpenes. In conclusion, measurement of SER could be a feasible approach for the efficient evaluation of the PEs that mainly act on SC lipids.

Isopropyl myristate (IPM) is a widely used penetration enhancer in pharmaceutical formulations, however, its mechanism of action on a molecular scale is still not completely understood. Previous work using a quaternary Stratum Corneum (SC) lipid model in bulk suggested the incorporation of isopropyl myristate into the SC lipid matrix, phase separation, and perturbation of the multilamellar lipid assembly. Here, we used 2D Langmuir monolayers of a ternary SC lipid model, containing ceramide AP C18:18, stearic acid and cholesterol in a molar ratio of [1:1:0.7], respectively, to shed light on the mechanism of action of this important lipophilic penetration enhancer. To do so, the synthesis of chain deuterated isopropyl myristate was successfully performed in order to study the different coupling possibilities between the hydrogenated and deuterated IPM and the alkyl chains of the SC molecules. Our results indicate that only a small portion of IPM is able to mix with our SC model leading to a limited fluidizing effect (small increase of the wavenumber of CH2 stretching vibration, increase of the SC layer flexibility), but will be squeezed out at higher lateral pressures. Furthermore, the deuteration of IPM enhances the miscibility with this SC model, probably due to a different coupling between the alkyl chains or the alkyl and deuterated chains. Additionally, using the pure D-form of CER[AP] in the SC model amplifies the obtained results.