The barrier function of the skin is primarily located in the stratum corneum (SC), the outermost layer of the skin. The SC is composed of dead cells with highly organized lipid lamellae in the intercellular space. As the lipid matrix forms the only continuous pathway, the lipids play an important role in the permeation of compounds through the SC. The main lipid classes are ceramides (CERs), cholesterol (CHOL) and free fatty acids (FFAs). Analysis of the SC lipid matrix is of crucial importance in understanding the skin barrier function, not only in healthy skin, but also in inflammatory skin diseases with an impaired skin barrier. In this review we provide i) a historical overview of the steps undertaken to obtain information on the lipid composition and organization in SC of healthy skin and inflammatory skin diseases, ii) information on the role CERs, CHOL and FFAs play in the lipid phase behavior of very complex lipid model systems and how this knowledge can be used to understand the deviation in lipid phase behavior in inflammatory skin diseases, iii) knowledge on the role of both, CER subclasses and chain length distribution, on lipid organization and lipid membrane permeability in complex and simple model systems with synthetic CERs, CHOL and FFAs, iv) similarity in lipid phase behavior in SC of different species and complex model systems, and vi) future directions in modulating lipid composition that is expected to improve the skin barrier in inflammatory skin diseases.

Skin\'s effectiveness as a barrier to permeation of water and other chemicals rests almost entirely in the outermost layer of the epidermis, the stratum corneum (SC), which consists of layers of corneocytes surrounded by highly organized lipid lamellae. As the only continuous path through the SC, transdermal permeation necessarily involves diffusion through these lipid layers. The role of the SC as a protective barrier is supported by its exceptional lipid composition consisting of ceramides (CERs), cholesterol (CHOL), and free fatty acids (FFAs) and the complete absence of phospholipids, which are present in most biological membranes. Molecular simulation, which provides molecular level detail of lipid configurations that can be connected with barrier function, has become a popular tool for studying SC lipid systems. We review this ever-increasing body of literature with the goals of (1) enabling the experimental skin community to understand, interpret and use the information generated from the simulations, (2) providing simulation experts with a solid background in the chemistry of SC lipids including the composition, structure and organization, and barrier function, and (3) presenting a state of the art picture of the field of SC lipid simulations, highlighting the difficulties and best practices for studying these systems, to encourage the generation of robust reproducible studies in the future. This review describes molecular simulation methodology and then critically examines results derived from simulations using atomistic and then coarse-grained models.

Alkanediols are widely used as multifunctional ingredients in dermal formulations. In addition to their preservative effect, considering their possible impact on drug penetration is also essential for their use. In the present study, the influence of 2-methyl-2,4-pentanediol, 1,2-pentanediol, 1,2-hexanediol and 1,2-octanediol on the skin penetration of triamcinolone acetonide from four different semisolid formulations was investigated. Furthermore, confocal Raman spectroscopy measurements were performed to examine the influence of the alkanediols on stratum corneum lipid content and order. Alkanediols were found to increase the penetration of triamcinolone acetonide. However, the extent depends strongly on the formulation used. In certain formulations, 1,2-pentanediol showed the highest effect, while in others the penetration-enhancing effect increased with the alkyl chain length of the alkanediol used. None of the tested alkanediols extracted lipids from the stratum corneum nor reduced its thickness. Notwithstanding the above, the longer-chained alkanediols cause the lipids to be converted to a more disordered state, which favors drug penetration. This behavior could not be detected for the shorter-chained alkanediols. Therefore, their penetration-enhancing effect is supposed to be related to an interaction with the hydrophilic regions of the stratum corneum.

Diseases related to a disrupted skin barrier are accompanied by lower levels of ceramides in the stratum corneum (SC) lipid matrix. Delivering ceramides directly into damaged skin is a viable alternative to conventional corticosteroids, but is hindered by their low skin bioavailability and limited nanoformulation ability. Here, we developed stable liposomal systems containing ceramides and other SC lipids, and tested their effectiveness in skin barrier repair. Lipid film hydration and high-pressure homogenization were used to prepare different types of liposomes. To determine the stability, the particle size and polydispersity index were measured. The optimal systems were found to include ceramide 3 and 6, cholesterol and stearic acid, with 10% urea in phosphate-buffered saline as the aqueous phase. The ability of the system to repair chemically-damaged porcine skin was tested. While treatment by a standard lipid suspension reduced the passage of a model permeant only to a limited extent, drug flux through the liposomally-treated skin was much closer to permeation through intact skin. The non-homogenized liposomes were more effective than their homogenized version. These findings were also confirmed by FTIR measurements. This suggests that our approach to liposomal development has considerable potential for the repair of a disrupted skin barrier.

Ceramides (Cers) are significant constituents of the stratum corneum (SC), the uppermost skin layer responsible for skin barrier properties. Cers are a heterogeneous group of lipids whose mutual interactions are still unclear. To better understand these interactions, we characterized model membranes containing stearic acid, cholesterol, cholesterol sulfate and one or more of the following ceramides: N-stearoyl-sphingosine (CerNS), N-stearoyl-phytosphingosine (CerNP) and N-(2-hydroxy)stearoyl-phytosphingosine (CerAP). Small angle X-ray scattering and FTIR spectroscopy were used to study lipid arrangement, phase separation and thermotropic behaviour. In the one-Cer systems, the membranes with CerNP showed strong hydrogen bonding and significant phase separation, even after phase transition, while the systems containing CerAP and CerNS had increased lipid miscibility. The multi-Cer systems exhibited different behaviour. In particular, the membrane containing all three Cers was a highly miscible system with narrow one-step phase transition, which, of all the studied samples, occurred at the lowest temperatures. Our results show that even a small variation in Cer structure results in substantially different phase behaviour, which is further affected by the presence of other Cer subclasses. Interestingly, the phase behaviour of the most complex three-Cer system was simpler than that of the others, highlighting the importance of lipid diversity in real SC.

The measurement of skin electrical resistance (SER) has drawn a great deal of attention for the rapid screening of transdermal penetration enhancers (PEs). However, the mechanisms underlying the SER measurement are still unclear. This study was to investigate the effects and mechanisms of seven oxygen-containing terpenes on the SER kinetics. Stratum corneum (SC) lipids were proved to play a key role in SER measurement. Then, the factors affecting the SER measurement were optimized. By the determination of SER kinetics, cyclic terpenes (1,8-cineole, terpinen-4-ol, menthol and α-terpineol) were demonstrated to possess higher enhancement ratio (ER) values compared with linear terpenes (linalool, geraniol and citral). For the first time, the linear correlation was found between ER of terpenes and the interaction energy of terpene⁻ceramide complexes revealed by molecular simulation. The attenuated total reflection-Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy (ATR-FTIR) analysis revealed that the effect of cyclic terpenes on SC lipid arrangement was obviously stronger than that of linear terpenes. In addition, by evaluating HaCaT skin cell viability, little difference was found between the toxicities of cyclic and linear terpenes. In conclusion, measurement of SER could be a feasible approach for the efficient evaluation of the PEs that mainly act on SC lipids.

To optimize transdermal application of drugs, the barrier function of the skin, especially the stratum corneum (SC), needs to be reduced reversibly. For this purpose, penetration enhancers like urea or taurine are applied. Until now, it is unclear if this penetration enhancement is caused by an interaction with the SC lipid matrix or related to effects within the corneocytes. Therefore, the effects of both hydrophilic enhancers on SC models with different dimensionality, ranging from monolayers to multilayers, have been investigated in this study. Many sophisticated methods were applied to ascertain the mode of action of both substances on a molecular scale. The experiments reveal that there is no specific interaction when 10% urea or 5% taurine solutions are added to the SC model systems. No additional water uptake in the head group region and no decrease of the lipid chain packing density have been observed. Consequently, we suppose that the penetration enhancing effect of both substances might be based on the introduction of large amounts of water into the corneocytes, caused by the enormous water binding capacity of urea and a resulting osmotic pressure in case of taurine.

Skin is attractive for drug therapy because it offers an easily accessible route without first-pass metabolism. Transdermal drug delivery is also associated with high patient compliance and through the site of application, the drug delivery can be locally directed. However, to succeed with transdermal drug delivery it is often required to overcome the low permeability of the upper layer of the skin, the stratum corneum (SC). One common strategy is to employ so-called penetration enhancers that supposedly act to increase the drug passage across SC. Still, there is a lack of understanding of the molecular effects of so-called penetration enhancers on the skin barrier membrane, the SC. In this study, we provide a molecular characterization of how different classes of compounds, suggested as penetration enhancers, influence lipid and protein components in SC. The compounds investigated include monoterpenes, fatty acids, osmolytes, surfactant, and Azone. We employ natural abundance (13)C polarization transfer solid-state nuclear magnetic resonance (NMR) on intact porcine SC. With this method it is possible to detect small changes in the mobility of the minor fluid lipid and protein SC components, and simultaneously obtain information on the major fraction of solid SC components. The balance between fluid and solid components in the SC is essential to determine macroscopic material properties of the SC, including barrier and mechanical properties. We study SC at different hydration levels corresponding to SC in ambient air and under occlusion. The NMR studies are complemented with diffusion cell experiments that provide quantitative data on skin permeability when treated with different compounds. By correlating the effects on SC molecular components and SC barrier function, we aim at deepened understanding of diffusional transport in SC, and how this can be controlled, which can be utilized for optimal design of transdermal drug delivery formulations.

This study compared the skin uptake of γ-undecalactone, decanol, and dodecyl acetate in an in vitro, un-occluded penetration assay in which they were applied to porcine skin at different finite loadings and application schemes. The pattern of fractional uptake differed between the chemicals and did not show the often assumed inverse correlation with surface loading. Furthermore, the mass uptake of identical cumulative amounts of the chemicals was not always additive. These results show that the uptake of fragrances in absence of occlusion and at finite loadings is chemical-specific and depends on the surface loading, the application scheme, and most probably, on the effects of the chemicals on the skin barrier efficiency. The observed lack of additivity might explain some of the differences in the responses observed in patch and repeated open application tests, and the boosting of the allergic state in sensitized individuals by sub-clinical exposures.

Lipids in the uppermost layer of the skin, the stratum corneum (SC), play an important role in the skin barrier properties. The main lipid classes are ceramides, cholesterol and free fatty acids. In previous studies a stratum corneum substitute (SCS) was developed, solely prepared from the SC lipids. The SCS mimics the lipid barrier properties of SC very closely. The present study aimed to design a psoriasis SCS (PS-SCS) mimicking several aspects of the lipid composition in SC from psoriasis patients. This PS-SCS showed a different lipid organization than SCS. The main differences were a reduced presence of an orthorhombic packing and an increased level of crystalline cholesterol. These changes resulted in lower flux of hydrocortisone across PS-SCS than across SCS and SC, which was most likely attributed to the higher level of phase separated crystalline cholesterol in PS-SCS. As propylene glycol (PG) is often used in dermatological formulations, in subsequent studies the interaction of PG with SC and SCS membranes was also investigated. These studies revealed that PG increased the permeability of hydrocortisone, mainly by selectively extracting cholesterol from SCS membranes and SC. This may play an important role in the penetration enhancing effect of PG.