化妆品是用于皮肤的化学物质或混合物,头发,指甲,牙齿,和口腔粘膜,其使用旨在清洁,保护,正确的体臭,香水,保持良好状态,或改变外观。由于化妆品成分的巨大复杂性和掺假性,因此分析化妆品成分通常具有挑战性。在各种分析工具中,质谱(MS)已广泛用于化合物检测,成分筛选,质量控制,检测产品的真实性,和健康风险评估。这项工作的重点是MS在检测和定量一些常见化妆品成分中的应用,即,防腐剂,染料,重金属,过敏原,和各种基质中的生物缀合物(免洗型或冲洗型化妆品)。作为全球视野,基于MS的生物结合物分析是一个狭窄的领域,LC-和GC/GC×GC-MS广泛用于防腐剂的研究,染料,和香水,而电感耦合等离子体(ICP)-MS是重金属综合分析的理想选择。环境电离方法和先进的分离方法(即,收敛色谱(UPC2))与MS偶联已被证明是分析有气味的过敏原的绝佳选择。同时,本文探讨了基于MS分析的化妆品安全性研究面临的挑战。
Cosmetic products are chemical substances or mixtures used on the skin, hair, nails, teeth, and the mucous membranes of the oral cavity, whose use is intended to clean, protect, correct body odor, perfume, keep in good condition, or change appearance. The analysis of cosmetic ingredients is often challenging because of their huge complexity and their adulteration. Among various analytical tools, mass spectrometry (MS) has been largely used for compound detection, ingredient screening, quality control, detection of product authenticity, and health risk evaluation. This work is focused on the MS applications in detecting and quantification of some common cosmetic ingredients, i.e., preservatives, dyes, heavy metals, allergens, and bioconjugates in various matrices (leave-on or rinse-off cosmetic products). As a global view, MS-based analysis of bioconjugates is a narrow field, and LC- and GC/GC×GC-MS are widely used for the investigation of preservatives, dyes, and
fragrances, while inductively coupled plasma (ICP)-MS is ideal for comprehensive analysis of heavy metals. Ambient ionization approaches and advanced separation methods (i.e., convergence chromatography (UPC2)) coupled to MS have been proven to be an excellent choice for the analysis of scented allergens. At the same time, the current paper explores the challenges of MS-based analysis for cosmetic safety studies.