BACKGROUND: Fragrance substances are a frequent cause of contact allergy worldwide. Fragrance exposure varies by sex, age and possibly country, influenced by cosmetic availability, environmental conditions and cultural practices.
OBJECTIVE: To systematically review and gather prevalence of sensitization to fragrance mix I (FM I) and fragrance mix II (FM II) in consecutively patch tested European dermatitis patients.
METHODS: A total of 4134 publications on patch test results of European dermatitis patients, published from 1981 to 2022, were systematically reviewed according to a previously registered and published PROSPERO protocol.
RESULTS: Eighty-four eligible original articles were analysed. Overall prevalence of sensitization to fragrance mix I (FM I) was 6.81% (95% CI: 6.37-7.28), and FM II was 3.64% (95% CI: 3.3-4.01). Sensitization to FM I was most prevalent in Central and Eastern Europe and to FM II in Western Europe. No clear time trends were observed. Among paediatric dermatitis patients, sensitization prevalence for FM I and FM II was 4.09% (95% CI: 3.37-4.96) and 2.17% (95% CI: 1.53-3.07).
CONCLUSIONS: The frequency of positive patch test results for both FMI and FMII remains high. Sensitization is also prevalent among children. Enhanced regulation and labelling of cosmetic products play a vital role in averting exposure and sensitization to fragrance allergens.

Allergic contact dermatitis (ACD) is a common skin condition caused by contact with an exogenous agent that elicits an inflammatory response. Patch testing (PT) is considered the gold standard for diagnosing ACD. Unfortunately, PT may not be available to some patients due to insurance and financial limitations, contributing to health care disparity and leaving patients with undiagnosed, incompletely managed dermatitis that can have further detrimental health and occupational effects. For other patients, PT is precluded by lack of availability of specialist/expert care, comorbid medications, or diffuse disease. This article will present a patient with ACD and will work through the differential diagnosis and share strategies for empiric avoidance of suspected/common triggers. The epidemiology of ACD with respect to race and ethnicity, considerations for affordability of hypoallergenic products, access to testing, and the need for future research are addressed in this article.

Plastic pollution is widespread throughout aquatic environments globally, with many organisms known to interact with and ingest plastic. In marine environments, microbial biofilms that form on plastic surfaces can produce the odorous compound dimethyl sulfide (DMS), which is a known foraging cue. This has been shown to increase the ingestion of plastic by some invertebrates and therefore act as a biological factor which influences the risks of plastic to marine ecosystems. In freshwater however, the production of DMS has been largely overlooked, despite the known sensitivity of some freshwater species to this compound. To address this gap, the present study analyzed the production of DMS by biofilms which formed on low-density polyethylene and polylactic acid films after 3 and 6 weeks of submersion in either a rural or an urban United Kingdom river. Using gas chromatography-mass spectrometry, the production of DMS by these biofilms was consistently identified. The amount of DMS produced varied significantly across river locations and materials, with surfaces in the urban river generally producing a stronger signal and plastics producing up to seven times more DMS than glass control surfaces. Analysis of biofilm weight and photosynthetic pigment content indicated differences in biofilm composition across conditions and suggested that DMS production was largely driven by nonphotosynthetic taxa. For the first time this work has documented the production of DMS by plastic litter after submersion in freshwater rivers. Further work is now needed to determine if, as seen in marine systems, this production of DMS can encourage the interaction of freshwater organisms with plastic litter and therefore operate as a biological risk factor in the impacts of plastic on freshwater environments. Environ Toxicol Chem 2024;43:1485-1496. © 2024 The Authors. Environmental Toxicology and Chemistry published by Wiley Periodicals LLC on behalf of SETAC.

Fragrance encapsulates are widely used in consumer care applications such as fabric softeners or other liquid laundry products; they provide multiple benefits, from fragrance protection in the commercial product to a controlled release and improved sensorial experience for the consumers. Polymeric fragrance encapsulates are in the scope of the EU regulation restricting the use of intentionally added microplastic particles, and industry is actively working on innovation programs to find biodegradable alternatives. However, particular attention needs to be paid to claims that a fragrance encapsulation system is biodegradable, because biodegradation test results can vary considerably depending on how a test material is prepared, which can even lead to false-positive biodegradation test results, as shown in our study. We demonstrate the importance of the sample preparation phase of the process. We show how the biodegradation level can fluctuate from 0% to 91%, depending on how the test material is isolated from a given microcapsule slurry system, and we present a method that can be used to obtain trustworthy biodegradation results. Environ Toxicol Chem 2024;43:1242-1249. © 2024 Givaudan France SAS. Environmental Toxicology and Chemistry published by Wiley Periodicals LLC on behalf of SETAC.

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Cosmetic products are chemical substances or mixtures used on the skin, hair, nails, teeth, and the mucous membranes of the oral cavity, whose use is intended to clean, protect, correct body odor, perfume, keep in good condition, or change appearance. The analysis of cosmetic ingredients is often challenging because of their huge complexity and their adulteration. Among various analytical tools, mass spectrometry (MS) has been largely used for compound detection, ingredient screening, quality control, detection of product authenticity, and health risk evaluation. This work is focused on the MS applications in detecting and quantification of some common cosmetic ingredients, i.e., preservatives, dyes, heavy metals, allergens, and bioconjugates in various matrices (leave-on or rinse-off cosmetic products). As a global view, MS-based analysis of bioconjugates is a narrow field, and LC- and GC/GC×GC-MS are widely used for the investigation of preservatives, dyes, and fragrances, while inductively coupled plasma (ICP)-MS is ideal for comprehensive analysis of heavy metals. Ambient ionization approaches and advanced separation methods (i.e., convergence chromatography (UPC2)) coupled to MS have been proven to be an excellent choice for the analysis of scented allergens. At the same time, the current paper explores the challenges of MS-based analysis for cosmetic safety studies.

BACKGROUND: Medical devices (MDs) have a long history of use, and come with regulatory frameworks to ensure user safety. Although topically applied MDs in the form of gels and creams might be used on damaged skin, their composition is often similar to that of cosmetic products applicable to intact skin, especially in terms of preservatives and fragrances. However, unlike cosmetics, these products are not subject to compound-specific restrictions when used in MDs.
OBJECTIVE: This study aimed to identify and quantify preservatives and fragrances in topically applied MDs and assess their safety towards the Cosmetic Regulation (EC) 1223/2009.
METHODS: Sixty-nine MDs available on the EU market were subjected to previously validated liquid chromatography tandem mass spectrometry (LC-MS/MS) and gas chromatography-mass spectrometry (GC-MS) methods to identify and quantify occurring preservatives and fragrances.
RESULTS: Findings revealed that 32% of the examined MDs did not provide comprehensive ingredient lists, leaving users uninformed about potential risks associated with product use. Furthermore, 30% of these MDs would not meet safety standards for cosmetic products and, most significantly, 13% of the analysed samples contained ingredients that are prohibited in leave-on cosmetics.
CONCLUSIONS: Results highlight the pressing demand for more stringent requirements regarding the labelling and composition of MDs to enhance patient safety. Improved regulation and transparency can mitigate potential risks associated with the use of topically applied MDs.

In this review, the impact of the transition from today\'s resource-wasting petrochemical economy towards a 100/100 renewable and biodegradable future is discussed with respect to the fragrance families: \"citrus\", \"green\", \"fruity\", \"floral\", \"floriental\", \"oriental\", \"woody\", \"chypre\" and \"fougère\". After benchmark data on ingredients usage, definitions on biodegradation and sustainability are given. Celebrating the 150th anniversary of synthetic vanillin, its historic synthesis from renewable starting materials serves as introduction. In the grand scheme of things, citrus scents upcycled from the beverages industry, are already an ideal case for 100/100 with new opportunities for artificial essential oils. In the fruity domain, transparent and lactonic ingredients are available in a sustainable manner. However, in the domain of green odorants, there is a lack of green chemistry for important key materials. In the floral family, renewability is more critical than biodegradability, but cost is an issue. Thanks to Ambrox and maltol, florientals and orientals will persist, while woody notes severely lack an Iso E Super replacer. In the chypre genre, patchouli became the new moss, but more musks are increasingly in demand. With their high percentage of linalool and dihydromyrcenol, the construction of fougères could well become a precedent for other families, despite challenges in vetiver and salicylates. Still, the challenges exemplified here create immense opportunities for new perfumery materials.

Natural aromas like cinnamaldehyde are suitable solvents to extract curcuminoids, the active ingredients found in the rhizomes of Curcuma longa L. In a pursuit to find other nature-based solvents, capable of solving curcumin, forty fragrances and flavours were investigated in terms of their solubilisation power. Aroma compounds were selected according to their molecular structure and functional groups. Their capabilities of solving curcumin were examined by UV-Vis spectroscopy and COSMO-RS calculations. The trends of these calculations were in accordance with the experimental solubilisation trend of the solubility screening and a list with the respective curcumin concentrations is given; σ-profiles and Gibbs free energy were considered to further investigate the solubilisation process of curcumin, which was found to be based on hydrogen bonding. High curcumin solubility was achieved in the presence of solvent (mixtures) with high hydrogen-bond-acceptor and low hydrogen-bond-donor abilities, like γ- and δ-lactones. The special case of DMSO was also examined, as the highest curcumin solubility was observed with it. Possible specific interactions of selected aroma compounds (citral and δ-hexalactone) with curcumin were investigated via 1H NMR and NOESY experiments. The tested flavours and fragrances were evaluated regarding their potential as green alternative solvents.

To support perfumers in their creation of olfactive signatures resulting in unique and instantly recognizable perfumes, there is a constant demand for the development of new odorant molecules and of novel processes for their production. Increasing the sustainability of both the molecules and the processes is a crucial activity at Givaudan. Biocatalysis has the potential to positively influence metrics applied at Givaudan that drive and measure our ambition to innovate responsibly, which is summarized in the FiveCarbon Path™. It targets an increased use of renewable carbon, carbon efficiency in synthesis, and the production of powerful and biodegradable odorant molecules while maximizing the use of upcycled carbon available from waste and side streams. This review illustrates with some examples how enzymes selected from the oxidoreductase and isomerase enzyme classes are applied at Givaudan for the preparation of odorant molecules both at laboratory and industrial scale.