The skin surface lipids (SSLs) film, composed of sebum and keratinocyte membrane lipids, is crucial to the barrier function of the stratum corneum (SC). The first part of this study investigated the impact of solar radiation on the SC based on a novel hydration and dehydration approach using Raman spectroscopy. The SSLs were found to absorb solar light, and thus participate to the protection of the skin surface. However, the protective function of the SSLs may be limited and is dependent to the heterogenous distribution of SSLs over the body surface. To ensure comprehensive protection, synergistic measures such as the application of solar filters are necessary. In this second part of the study, we have evaluated the limits of the protection capacity of SSLs and explored the protective action of a solar filters on both SSLs composition and the water hydration and dehydration kinetics in the SC.

The barrier function of the skin is primarily determined by its outermost layer, the Stratum Corneum (SC). The SC consists of corneocytes embedded in a lipid matrix composed mainly of ceramides, cholesterol, and free fatty acids in equimolar proportions and is organised in a complex lamellar structure with different periodicities and lateral packings. This matrix provides a diffusion pathway across the SC for bioactive compounds that are administered to the skin. In this regard, and as the skin administration route has grown in popularity, there has been an increase in the use of lipid mixtures that closely resemble the SC lipid matrix, either for a deeper biophysical understanding or for pharmaceutical and cosmetic purposes. This review focuses on a systematic analysis of the main outcomes of using lipid mixtures as SC lipid matrix models for pharmaceutical and cosmetic purposes. Thus, a methodical evaluation of the main outcomes based on the SC structure is performed, as well as the main recent developments in finding suitable new in vitro tools for permeation testing based on lipid models.

The integumentary system, a vital organ, constitutes a multifaceted barrier against pathogens and environmental factors, crucial for maintaining homeostasis. Intrinsic and extrinsic factors can accelerate skin aging and compromise its homeostatic functions and solar rays, particularly ultraviolet (UV) radiation, pose a significant risk for skin cancer. Polyphenols are molecules that donate hydrogen or electrons, preventing the oxidation of substances, such as lipids, or the formation of inflammatory mediators by cyclooxygenase enzymes. This study explored the in vitro safety, by HET-CAM (hen\'s egg test on chorioallantoic membrane), and protective effects of polyphenols (chlorogenic acid, apigenin, kaempferol, and naringenin) against stratum corneum UV-induced lipid peroxidation using an innovative method, the HPLC-TBARS-EVSC (high-performance liquid chromatography-thiobarbituric acid reactive substances-ex vivo stratum corneum), and a stress test using methyl nicotinate and laser Doppler flowmetry to establish in vivo the samples\' topical anti-inflammatory ability. An aqueous gel containing 0.1% w/w of each polyphenol was formulated using ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP copolymer. Through the utilization of the HET-CAM assay for in vitro safety assessment, chlorogenic acid, apigenin, kaempferol, and naringenin were classified as non-irritating active ingredients. This classification was based on their lack of adverse reactions within the vascularization of the chorioallantoic membrane. To assess the protective capabilities of four polyphenols against lipid peroxidation in the stratum corneum, the HPLC-TBARS-EVSC protocol was conducted. It was observed that only naringenin exhibited a significant reduction in epidermal lipoperoxidation, indicating superior anti-radical potential. Conversely, chlorogenic acid, apigenin, and kaempferol displayed a pro-oxidant profile under the specified test conditions. The laser Doppler flowmetry suggested the anti-inflammatory potential of naringenin, kaempferol, and chlorogenic acid, with naringenin showing superior efficacy involving all parameters quantified. Naringenin emerged as the only polyphenol capable of reducing the intensity of the inflammatory response induced by methyl nicotinate solution in the participants, compared to the blank gel and the untreated area. This comprehensive investigation underscores the diverse protective roles of polyphenols in skin health, emphasizing naringenin\'s notable anti-radical and anti-inflammatory properties.

The skin is the largest organ of the human body and is widely considered to be the first-line defense of the body, providing essential protection against mechanical, physical, and chemical damage. Keratinocytes are the primary cells of the outer layer of the epidermis, which acts as a mechanical and permeability barrier. The epidermis is a permanently renewed tissue where undifferentiated keratinocytes located at the basal layer proliferate and migrate to the overlying layers. Here we report that some components of keratinocytes affect the formation and differentiation of the stratum corneum, which is the most specialized layer of the epidermis.

Ethosome offers a unique solution to the challenges faced by conventional drug delivery systems. In comparison to traditional liposomes and other nanocarriers, ethosomes exhibit a unique ability to improve drug absorption, overcoming a major limitation in the Transdermal Drug Delivery System. Their soft and flexible nano-vesicular structure facilitates faster permeation, resulting in significantly higher transdermal flux. This scientific investigation effectively traverses the changing landscape of ethosomes as an innovative drug delivery system. By conducting a thorough comparative analysis, we uncover the distinct characteristics that set them apart from other nanocarriers, offering insights into their distinct advantages. The study also includes a detailed analysis of the variables that have a complex impact on performance, elucidating transport mechanisms and addressing advanced facets pivotal for refined drug delivery strategies. This comprehensive overview highlights ethosomes as a future of medicine, offering a promising future for the safe and effective treatment of diverse diseases, impacting numerous lives.

Polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons (PAH) are persistent environmental pollutants, which occasionally appear as contaminants in consumer products. Upon dermal contact, transfer of PAH into the stratum corneum (s.c.) and migration through the skin may occur, resulting in this class of highly toxic compounds to become bioavailable. In this study, dermal penetration through human and porcine skin of 24 PAH, comprising broad molar mass (M: 152-302 g/mol) and octanol-water partition coefficient (logP: 3.9-7.3) ranges, was evaluated via Franz diffusion cell in vitro assays. More lipophilic and potentially more toxic PAH had decreased permeation rates through the rather lipophilic s.c. into the more hydrophilic viable (epi-)dermis. Furthermore, human skin was less permeable than pigskin, a commonly used surrogate in skin penetration studies. In particular, the s.c. of human skin retains a greater share of PAH, an effect that is more pronounced for smaller PAH. Additionally, we compared the skin permeation kinetics of different PAH in pigskin. While small PAH (M < 230 g/mol, logP < 6) permeate the skin quickly and are detected in the receptor fluid after 2 h, large PAH (M > 252 g/mol, logP ≥ 6) do not fully permeate the skin up to 48 h. This indicates that highly lipophilic PAH do not become bioavailable as readily as their smaller congeners when transferred to the skin surface. Our data suggest that pigskin could be used as a surrogate for worst case scenario estimates of dermal PAH permeation through human skin.

Outdoor workers have increased risk of developing keratinocyte cancer due to accumulated skin damage resulting from chronic and excessive exposure to UVR. This study aims to identify potential noninvasive biomarkers to assess chronic UVR exposure. We analyzed stratum corneum biomarkers collected from 2 skin locations and 2 occupational groups with contrasting solar UVR exposure: the forehead and retroauricular skin among outdoor workers and indoor workers. Using a linear mixed model adjusting for age and skin phototype, we compared biomarkers between both skin sites in indoor and outdoor workers. We measured markers of the immune response and skin barrier, including cytokines, GFs, 15-hydroxyeicosatetraenoic acid, cis- and trans-urocanic acid, and corneocyte topography, indicated by circular nano objects. Differences between the 2 skin sites were found for cis-urocanic acid, total urocanic acid, IL-1α, IL-1RA, IL-1RA/IL-1α, IL-18, 15-hydroxyeicosatetraenoic acid, CCL4, and circular nano objects. The levels of cis-urocanic acid and CCL4 also differed between indoor and outdoor workers. These findings underscore changes in both immune response and skin barrier induced by UVR. They indicate the potential utility of stratum corneum biomarkers in detecting both chronic UVR exposure in occupational setting and aiding in the development of preventive measures.

Society is showing a growing concern about the welfare of cetaceans in captivity as well as cetaceans in the wild threatened by anthropogenic disturbances. The study of the physiological stress response is increasingly being used to address cetacean conservation and welfare issues. Within it, a newly described technique of extracting cortisol from epidermal desquamation may serve as a non-invasive, more integrated measure of a cetacean\'s stress response and welfare. However, confounding factors are common when measuring glucocorticoid hormones. In this study, we validated a steroid hormone extraction protocol and the use of a commercial enzyme immunoassay (EIA) test to measure cortisol concentrations in common bottlenose dolphin (Tursiops truncatus) and beluga (Delphinapterus leucas) epidermal samples. Moreover, we examined the effect of sample mass and body location on cortisol concentrations. Validation tests (i.e., assay specificity, accuracy, precision, and sensitivity) suggested that the method was suitable for the quantification of cortisol concentrations. Cortisol was extracted from small samples (0.01 g), but the amount of cortisol detected and the variability between duplicate extractions increased as the sample mass decreased. In common bottlenose dolphins, epidermal skin cortisol concentrations did not vary significantly across body locations while there was a significant effect of the individual. Overall, we present a contribution towards advancing and standardizing epidermis hormone assessments in cetaceans.

OBJECTIVE: Ultraviolet B (UVB) radiation can compromise the functionality of the skin barrier through various mechanisms. We hypothesize that UVB induce photochemical alterations in the components of the outermost layer of the skin, known as the stratum corneum (SC), and modulate its antioxidative defense mechanisms. Catalase is a well-known antioxidative enzyme found in the SC where it acts to scavenge reactive oxygen species. However, a detailed characterization of acute UVB exposure on the activity of native catalase in the SC is lacking. Moreover, the effects of UVB irradiation on the molecular dynamics and organization of the SC keratin and lipid components remain unclear. Thus, the aim of this work is to characterize consequences of UVB exposure on the structural and antioxidative properties of catalase, as well as on the molecular and global properties of the SC matrix surrounding the enzyme.
METHODS: The effect of UVB irradiation on the catalase function is investigated by chronoamperometry with a skin covered oxygen electrode, which probes the activity of native catalase in the SC matrix. Circular dichroism is used to explore changes of the catalase secondary structure, and gel electrophoresis is used to detect fragmentation of the enzyme following the UVB exposure. UVB induced alterations of the SC molecular dynamics and structural features of the SC barrier, as well as its water sorption behavior, are investigated by a complementary set of techniques, including natural abundance 13C polarization transfer solid-state NMR, wide-angle X-ray diffraction, Fourier transform infrared (FTIR) spectroscopy, and dynamic vapor sorption microbalance.
RESULTS: The findings show that UVB exposure impairs the antioxidative function of catalase by deactivating both native catalase in the SC matrix and lyophilized catalase. However, UVB radiation does not alter the secondary structure of the catalase nor induce any observable enzyme fragmentation, which otherwise could explain deactivation of its function. NMR measurements on SC samples show a subtle increase in the molecular mobility of the terminal segments of the SC lipids, accompanied by a decrease in the mobility of lipid chain trans-gauche conformers after high doses of UVB exposure. At the same time, the NMR data suggest increased rigidity of the polypeptide backbone of the keratin filaments, while the molecular mobility of amino acid residues in random coil domains of keratin remain unaffected by UVB irradiation. The FTIR data show a consistent decrease in absorbance associated with lipid bond vibrations, relative to the main protein bands. Collectively, the NMR and FTIR data suggest a small modification in the composition of fluid and solid phases of the SC lipid and protein components after UVB exposure, unrelated to the hydration capacity of the SC tissue. To conclude, UVB deactivation of catalase is anticipated to elevate oxidative stress of the SC, which, when coupled with subtle changes in the molecular characteristics of the SC, may compromise the overall skin health and elevate the likelihood of developing skin disorders.

Melanoma is responsible for more than 80% of deaths related to skin diseases. Ibrutinib (IBR), a Bruton\'s tyrosine kinase inhibitor, has been proposed to treat this type of tumor. However, its low solubility, extensive first-pass effect, and severe adverse reactions with systemic administration affect therapeutic success. This study proposes developing and comparing the performance of two compositions of nanostructured lipid carriers (NLCs) to load IBR for the topical management of melanomas in their early stages. Initially, the effectiveness of IBR on melanoma proliferation was evaluated in vitro, and the results confirmed that the drug reduces the viability of human melanoma cells by inducing apoptosis at a dose that does not compromise dermal cells. Preformulation tests were then conducted to characterize the physical compatibility between the drug and the selected components used in NLCs preparation. Sequentially, two lipid compositions were used to develop the NLCs. Formulations were then characterized and subjected to in vitro release and permeation tests on porcine skin. The NLCs containing oleic acid effectively controlled IBR release over 24 h compared to the NLCs composed of pomegranate seed oil. Furthermore, the nanoparticles acted as permeation enhancers, increasing the fluidity of the lipids in the stratum corneum, as determined by EPR spectroscopy, which stimulated the IBR penetration more profoundly into the skin. However, the NLCs composition also influenced the permeation promotion factor. Thus, these findings emphasize the importance of the composition of NLCs in controlling and increasing the skin penetration of IBR and pave the way for future advances in melanoma therapy.