UNASSIGNED: Cinnamic alcohol is a natural compound, widely used in fragrances, which can cause allergic contact dermatitis. Cinnamic alcohol lacks intrinsic reactivity and autoxidation or metabolic activation is necessary for it to act as a sensitizer.
UNASSIGNED: Bioactivation of cinnamic alcohol was explored using human liver microsomes, human liver S9 and SkinEthic™ Reconstructed Human Epidermis. A targeted multiple reaction monitoring mass spectrometry method was employed to study and quantify cinnamic alcohol along with eight potential phase I or phase II metabolites. The reconstructed human epidermis model, treated with cinnamic alcohol, was also analyzed with a non-targeted high-resolution mass spectrometry method to identify metabolites not included in the targeted method.
UNASSIGNED: Two metabolites identified with the targeted method, namely, pOH-cinnamic alcohol and pOH-cinnamic aldehyde, have not previously been identified in a metabolic in vitro system. Their reactivity toward biologically relevant nucleophiles was investigated and compared to their sensitizing potency in vivo in the murine local lymph node assay (LLNA). According to the LLNA, the pOH-cinnamic alcohol is non-sensitizing and pOH-cinnamic aldehyde is a moderate sensitizer. This makes pOH-cinnamic aldehyde less sensitizing than cinnamic aldehyde, which has been found to be a strong sensitizer in the LLNA. This difference in sensitizing potency was supported by the reactivity experiments. Cinnamic sulfate, previously proposed as a potential reactive metabolite of cinnamic alcohol, was not detected in any of the incubations. In addition, experiments examining the reactivity of cinnamic sulfate toward a model peptide revealed no evidence of adduct formation. The only additional metabolite that could be identified with the non-targeted method was a dioxolan derivative. Whether or not this metabolite, or one of its precursors, could contribute to the sensitizing potency of cinnamic alcohol would need further investigation.
UNASSIGNED: Cinnamic alcohol is one of the most common fragrance allergens and as it is more effective to patch test with the actual sensitizer than with the prohapten itself, it is important to identify metabolites with sensitizing potency. Further, improved knowledge of metabolic transformations occurring in the skin can improve prediction models for safety assessment of skin products.

3 D human epidermal equivalents (HEEs) are a state-of-the-art organotypic culture model in pre-clinical investigative dermatology and regulatory toxicology. Here, we investigated the utility of electrical impedance spectroscopy (EIS) for non-invasive measurement of HEE epidermal barrier function. Our setup comprised a custom-made lid fit with 12 electrode pairs aligned on the standard 24-transwell cell culture system. Serial EIS measurements for seven consecutive days did not impact epidermal morphology and readouts showed comparable trends to HEEs measured only once. We determined two frequency ranges in the resulting impedance spectra: a lower frequency range termed EISdiff correlated with keratinocyte terminal differentiation independent of epidermal thickness and a higher frequency range termed EISSC correlated with stratum corneum thickness. HEEs generated from CRISPR/Cas9 engineered keratinocytes that lack key differentiation genes FLG, TFAP2A, AHR or CLDN1 confirmed that keratinocyte terminal differentiation is the major parameter defining EISdiff. Exposure to pro-inflammatory psoriasis- or atopic dermatitis-associated cytokine cocktails lowered the expression of keratinocyte differentiation markers and reduced EISdiff. This cytokine-associated decrease in EISdiff was normalized after stimulation with therapeutic molecules. In conclusion, EIS provides a non-invasive system to consecutively and quantitatively assess HEE barrier function and to sensitively and objectively measure barrier development, defects and repair.

Matrix-assisted laser desorption/ionization (MALDI) mass spectrometry imaging (MSI) has become an important tool for skin analysis, as it allows the simultaneous detection and localization of diverse molecular species within a sample. The use of in vivo and ex vivo human skin models is costly and presents ethical issues; therefore, reconstructed human epidermis (RHE) models, which mimic the upper part of native human skin, represent a suitable alternative to investigate adverse effects of chemicals applied to the skin. However, there are few publications investigating the feasibility of using MALDI MSI on RHE models. Therefore, the aim of this study was to investigate the effect of sample preparation techniques, i.e., substrate, sample thickness, washing, and matrix recrystallization, on the quality of MALDI MSI for lipids analysis of the SkinEthic RHE model. Images were generated using an atmospheric pressure MALDI source coupled to a high-resolution mass spectrometer with a pixel size of 5 μm. Masses detected in a defined region of interest were analyzed and annotated using the LipostarMSI platform. The results indicated that the combination of (1) coated metallic substrates, such as APTES-coated stainless-steel plates, (2) tissue sections of 6 μm thickness, and (3) aqueous washing before HCCA matrix spraying (without recrystallization), resulted in images with a significant signal intensity as well as numerous m/z values. This refined methodology using AP-MALDI coupled to a high-resolution mass spectrometer should improve the current sample preparation workflow to evaluate changes in skin composition after application of dermatocosmetics.

BACKGROUND: For one half-century, cultures of human epidermal keratinocytes have opened new paths of research in skin biology and dermatology. Either performed with serum and feeder layer, in serum-free conditions, or in autocrine conditions, cells cultured as monolayers became research materials for basic science and dermatology, as well as a source for grafting, particularly to treat severely burned patients. More recently, tissue reconstruction at air-liquid interface has opened new perspectives for in vitro toxicology, studies of epidermal barrier, and modeling skin diseases.
CONCLUSIONS: This review presents a brief retrospective of the emergence of keratinocyte-based culture techniques. It also presents opportunities and eventual problems that researchers might encounter when exploring the skin using such procedures.
CONCLUSIONS: While methodologies in tissue culture evolve, the multiplicity of procedures concomitantly increases, requiring to make some selective but difficult choice. Keeping tracks of technological evolution in epidermal cell culture should help choosing the adequate methodology for a specific investigation or innovating with new, more dedicated ones.

The Organization for Economic Co-operation and Development approved a reconstructed human epidermis (RHE) model for in vitro skin irritation and corrosion tests as an alternative to animal testing for cosmetics, which has been banned in the European Union since 2013. However, RHE models have several limitations, such as high manufacturing costs, a loose skin barrier, and inability to simulate all cellular and non-cellular components of the human epidermis. Therefore, new alternative skin models are needed. Ex vivo skin models have been suggested as promising tools. Here, we investigated the structural similarities in the epidermis of pig and rabbit skin, a commercial RHE model (Keraskin), and human skin. To compare the structural similarity, the thickness of each epidermal layer was compared using molecular markers. Among the candidate human skin surrogates, the epidermal thickness of the pig skin was the most similar to that of human skin, followed by rabbit skin and Keraskin. Keraskin showed thicker cornified and granular layers than human skin, while rabbit skin displayed thinner layers. Moreover, the proliferation indices of Keraskin and rabbit skin were higher than those of human skin, whereas the proliferation index of the pig skin was similar to that of human skin. Some or none of the human skin barrier proteins FLG, CLDN1, and CDH1 were expressed in pig and rabbit skin, whereas all human proteins were expressed in Keraskin. Collectively, we propose ex vivo pig skin as the most suitable model for skin irritation testing because of its similarity to human skin.
UNASSIGNED: The online version contains supplementary material available at 10.1007/s43188-023-00185-1.

Skin permeation is a primary consideration in the safety assessment of cosmetic ingredients, topical drugs, and human users handling veterinary medicinal products. While excised human skin (EHS) remains the \'gold standard\' for in vitro permeation testing (IVPT) studies, unreliable supply and high cost motivate the search for alternative skin barrier models. In this study, a standardized dermal absorption testing protocol was developed to evaluate the suitability of alternative skin barrier models to predict skin absorption in humans. Under this protocol, side-by-side assessments of a commercially available reconstructed human epidermis (RhE) model (EpiDerm-200-X, MatTek), a synthetic barrier membrane (Strat-M, Sigma-Aldrich), and EHS were performed. The skin barrier models were mounted on Franz diffusion cells and the permeation of caffeine, salicylic acid, and testosterone was quantified. Transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and histology of the biological models were also compared. EpiDerm-200-X exhibited native human epidermis-like morphology, including a characteristic stratum corneum, but had an elevated TEWL as compared to EHS. The mean 6 h cumulative permeation of a finite dose (6 nmol/cm2) of caffeine and testosterone was highest in EpiDerm-200-X, followed by EHS and Strat-M. Salicylic acid permeated most in EHS, followed by EpiDerm-200-X and Strat-M. Overall, evaluating novel alternative skin barrier models in the manner outlined herein has the potential to reduce the time from basic science discovery to regulatory impact.

The presence of a new ceramide subclass, the 1-O-acyl omega-linoleoyloxy ceramides [1-O-E (EO) Cer], has been previously highlighted in reconstructed human epidermis (RHE). These ceramides are double esterified on two positions. The first is the 1-O position of the sphingoid base moiety with a long to very long chain of acyl residues (1-O-E), and the second is the position of the ω-hydroxyl group of the fatty acid moiety with linoleic acid (EO). Considering its chemical structure and hydrophobicity, this subclass can contribute to the skin barrier. Thus, it is important to determine whether this subclass is also present in native human stratum corneum (SC). This work compares ceramide structures of this novel subclass between RHE (in vitro) and two sources of human SC (in vivo and ex vivo) using normal-phase high-performance liquid chromatography coupled to high-resolution mass spectrometry (NP-HPLC/HR-MSn). The results confirm the presence of this double esterified ceramide subclass [1-O-E (EO) Cer] in human SC. The molecular profile obtained from the RHE was very close to that found in the human SC (in vivo and ex vivo). In addition, thanks to the targeted MS2/MS3 analysis, a new ceramide subclass was discovered and characterized in the three studied samples. We propose to name it [A-1-O-E (EO) Cer] because in these ceramides species, the fatty acid-esterified with the sphingoid base on the 1-O position-is hydroxylated on the α position. These results highlight the potential of both the analytical method and the characterization approach employed in this study.

Draize rabbit eye irritation and skin irritation tests are widely used in the chemical industry as traditional methods to evaluate the safety of cosmetics. However, great differences among laboratories have caused great doubt in the industry. In addition, with vigorous development of the global animal protection movement, developed countries have launched the \"3R\" campaign, and various kinds of in vitro alternative methods have emerged. Hen\'s egg test on the chorioallantoic membrane (HET-CAM), which is similar to the structure of the human cornea and has a clear and complete vascular system, is based on the characteristics of the chorioallantoic membrane (CAM) in mid-term SPF egg embryos. The reconstructed human epidermis (EpiSkin®) is composed of normal human keratinocytes that are histologically similar to human epidermises seen in vivo, and it is cultured on a collagen matrix. Similar to EpiSkin®, Human Corneal Epithelium (SkinEthic™) is another reconstructed 3D human-corneal structure that is an alternative to the traditional eye irritation test. Three in vitro methods were conducted to evaluate the safety of 12 baby care products, which included the most common types. In addition, a consumer research study was also carried out for two weeks to evaluate the safety. The results of the reconstructed human epidermis model, human corneal epithelium model and consumer research showed that no irritation was found in any test products; however, HET-CAM tests showed positive results.

Skin ageing has many manifestations such as wrinkles, dryness, hyperpigmentation, and uneven skin tone. Extrinsic and intrinsic factors, especially solar ultraviolet light (UVB), contribute to skin ageing; its main features are brown spots, alterations in melanin pigmentation, and a decrease in collagen and hyaluronic acid linked to oxidative stress. Several studies showed that topical products containing ingredients with antioxidant activity can reduce oxidative damage; to provide a maximum anti-ageing effect to the skin, topical products can combine various ingredients. C-SHOT SERUM contains a combination of two molecules with a proven anti-ageing activity: a high percentage (30%) of a more stable vitamin C derivative, 3-O-ethyl-l-ascorbic acid, and lactic acid (1%). The product showed a high biocompatibility, assessed through an MTT assay on keratinocytes and on Reconstructed Human Epidermis (RHE, SkinEthic); the anti-ageing activity was demonstrated on human dermal fibroblasts and keratinocytes by a statistically significant increase in collagen production and a reduction of a UVB-induced DNA damage marker (γ-H2AX histone), indicating DNA protection. Moreover, a depigmenting activity, shown by a highly significant decrease in melanin content on treated Reconstructed Human Pigmented Epidermis (RHPE), was assessed. According to the data of our study, the tested product contrasts the effect of skin ageing and irregular pigmentation due to the physiological decline of the skin.

Expression of the tight junction proteins Cldn1 and 4 is altered in skin diseases such as atopic dermatitis, and Cldn1 deficiency affects skin barrier formation. Impedance spectroscopy (IS) has been proven to allow detection of alterations in the skin barrier but is currently unable to separate effects on viable epidermis (VE) and stratum corneum (SC).
Effects of siRNA-mediated Cldn1 and 4 knockdown in reconstructed human epidermis (RHE) on VE and SC barrier function were investigated with Ussing chamber-based IS. Barrier components were sequentially altered, employing iron oxide nanoparticles and EGTA, to identify their contribution to the impedance spectrum. Resistance changes due to apically applied hyperosmolar electrolyte were used to identify barrier defects non-invasively.
IS of RHE yielded two relaxation frequencies, representing the barrier properties of the SC (~1000 Hz) and VE (~100 Hz). As proof of concept, it was shown that the Cldn1 knockdown-induced resistance drop arises from the impairment of both SC and VE, indicated by a shift of both relaxation frequencies. Hyperosmolar electrolyte penetration allowed non-invasive detection of Cldn1 knockdown via time-dependent frequency shifts. The absence of Cldn4 knockdown-induced changes revealed the weaknesses of transepithelial electrical resistance analysis.
In conclusion, the present technique allows to separately measure the barrier properties of SC and VE and further evaluate the Cldn1 and 4 knockdown impact on the skin barrier. As the measurement with agarose-embedded electrolyte allowed non-invasive identification of the Cldn1 knockdown, this opens the way to detailed in vivo skin barrier assessment.