BACKGROUND: In vitro methods have been widely used to assess adverse effects. Reconstructed Human Epidermis (RHE) poses as a fascinating test system employed to assess the dermal irritation hazard potential of chemicals. Although several RHE models are reported in the OECD Test Guideline No. 439, the OECD Document No. 220 encourages the scientific community to develop and validate new RHE test systems due to its relevance for socio-economic advancement.
METHODS: Following the criteria documented in the OECD No. 220, a blind study for skin irritation (OECD 439) was conducted employing the Minimum List of Reference Chemicals for Determination of Reproducibility and Predictive Capacity using ES®-RHE. Structural and functional characteristics were assessed alongside the prediction model.
RESULTS: The model has shown reproducibility of optical density and barrier function, similarly to internationally validated methods. Furthermore, it shows the cell layers\' development and differentiation ability due to Cytokeratin14, Cytokeratin10, and filaggrin expression. The prediction model resulted in sensitivity, specificity and accuracy rates of 100, 70, and 77 %, respectively.
CONCLUSIONS: The ES®-RHE demonstrated reliability and relevance, with similar structural and functional characteristics comparable to internationally validated models, in addition to the accepted predictive capacity according to OECD required minimum criteria, thus confirming the suitability of the national ES®-RHE in the hazard prediction of dermal irritation based on OECD Test Guideline No. 439.

Atopic dermatitis (AD) is associated with chronic inflammation and an altered skin barrier. Lipids of the stratum corneum of AD patients are known to differ substantially in composition from those of healthy subjects. A reconstructed human epidermis (RHE) model has been developed in vitro in order to mimic the characteristics of AD. In this study, using this model, we compared lipid profile modifications between control RHE and RHE treated with Th2 cytokines in order to mimic AD. We focused particularly on the lipid profile of the ceramide subclasses: non-hydroxy sphingosine (NS) and esterified ω-hydroxy sphingosine (EOS), which have been reported to be clearly modified in atopic skin. RHE lipids were extracted and analysed using high-performance liquid chromatography coupled to high-resolution mass spectrometry. The following lipid profile changes were observed in Th2-cytokine-treated RHE: (i) an increase in ceramide NS composed of an unsaturated fatty acid chain; (ii) an increase in saturated ceramide NS with small total carbon content (≤40 carbon atoms), whereas NS with a higher total carbon content (≥42 carbon atoms) was decreased; and (iii) a decrease in ceramide EOS. These results are in accordance with reported lipid profiles of human atopic skin in vivo. Moreover, the in vitro model represents a useful tool to better understand the pathogenesis of AD which may be used for future screening of new effective treatments.

Photoallergic contact dermatitis is a skin disease caused by combined exposure to photoreactive chemicals and sunlight. Exposure to allergens and the risk of skin sensitization is an essential regulatory issue within the industry. Yet, only few non-validated assays for photoallergy assessment exist as the pathogenesis is not fully deciphered. Improving such assays and/or developing new ones require an understanding of the chemical mechanisms involved. The first key event in the photosensitization process, namely chemical binding of the photoallergen to endogenous proteins, is thought to proceed via photo-mediated radicals arising from the photoallergen. Moreover, the mechanism of action of these radicals if formed in the epidermis is not known and far from being unraveled. We present here an original proof-of-concept methodology to probe radical generation from allergens in contact with photoexposed skin, using electron paramagnetic resonance and spin trapping in a reconstructed human epidermis model mimicking real-life exposure scenarios.

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Background: Test methods to inform hazard characterization and labeling of pesticides to protect human health are typically conducted using laboratory animals, and for skin irritation/corrosion the rabbit Draize test is currently required by many regulatory agencies. Although the Draize test is generally regarded to provide protective classifications for human health, new approach methodologies (NAMs) have been developed that offer more human relevant models that circumvent the uncertainty associated with species differences that exist between rabbits and humans. Despite wide applicability and use of these test methods across a broad range of chemicals, they have not been widely adopted for testing pesticides and pesticidal formulations. One of the barriers to adoption of these methods in this sector is low concordance with results from the Draize rabbit test, particularly for chemicals within the mild to moderate irritation spectrum.
Methods: This review compares and contrasts the extent to which available models used in skin irritation testing mimic the anatomy and physiology of human skin, and how each aligns with the known key events leading to chemically-induced adverse skin irritation and corrosion. Doing so fully characterizes the human relevance of each method.
Results: As alternatives to the rabbit Draize test, several protocols using ex vivo, in chemico, and in vitro skin models are available as internationally harmonized test guidelines. These methods rely on a variety of models of human skin, including excised rodent skin, synthetic biochemical models of barrier function, cell culture systems, and reconstructed human tissue models. We find these models exhibit biological and mechanistic relevance aligned with human skin irritation responses. Further, recent retrospective analyses have shown that the reproducibility of the Draize test is less than 50% for mild and moderate responses, with many of the replicate predictions spanning more than one category (e.g., a moderate response reported in one study followed by a non-irritant response reported in another study).
Conclusions: Based on this comparative evaluation, we recommend top-down and bottom-up testing strategies that use the most human relevant in vitro test methods for skin irritation and corrosion classification of pesticides and pesticide formulations. To further discriminate among mild and non-irritant formulations, optimization of a cytokine release protocol and subsequent analyses of reference formulation test results is recommended.

UNASSIGNED: Cinnamic alcohol is a natural compound, widely used in fragrances, which can cause allergic contact dermatitis. Cinnamic alcohol lacks intrinsic reactivity and autoxidation or metabolic activation is necessary for it to act as a sensitizer.
UNASSIGNED: Bioactivation of cinnamic alcohol was explored using human liver microsomes, human liver S9 and SkinEthic™ Reconstructed Human Epidermis. A targeted multiple reaction monitoring mass spectrometry method was employed to study and quantify cinnamic alcohol along with eight potential phase I or phase II metabolites. The reconstructed human epidermis model, treated with cinnamic alcohol, was also analyzed with a non-targeted high-resolution mass spectrometry method to identify metabolites not included in the targeted method.
UNASSIGNED: Two metabolites identified with the targeted method, namely, pOH-cinnamic alcohol and pOH-cinnamic aldehyde, have not previously been identified in a metabolic in vitro system. Their reactivity toward biologically relevant nucleophiles was investigated and compared to their sensitizing potency in vivo in the murine local lymph node assay (LLNA). According to the LLNA, the pOH-cinnamic alcohol is non-sensitizing and pOH-cinnamic aldehyde is a moderate sensitizer. This makes pOH-cinnamic aldehyde less sensitizing than cinnamic aldehyde, which has been found to be a strong sensitizer in the LLNA. This difference in sensitizing potency was supported by the reactivity experiments. Cinnamic sulfate, previously proposed as a potential reactive metabolite of cinnamic alcohol, was not detected in any of the incubations. In addition, experiments examining the reactivity of cinnamic sulfate toward a model peptide revealed no evidence of adduct formation. The only additional metabolite that could be identified with the non-targeted method was a dioxolan derivative. Whether or not this metabolite, or one of its precursors, could contribute to the sensitizing potency of cinnamic alcohol would need further investigation.
UNASSIGNED: Cinnamic alcohol is one of the most common fragrance allergens and as it is more effective to patch test with the actual sensitizer than with the prohapten itself, it is important to identify metabolites with sensitizing potency. Further, improved knowledge of metabolic transformations occurring in the skin can improve prediction models for safety assessment of skin products.

Hyperpigmentation disorders may result from inappropriate melanin deposition and/or excessive melanin synthesis. They are classified mainly as aesthetic problems, but they can significantly affect human health by decreasing self-esteem. There are available only limited treatment options for hyperpigmentation disorder, among others, cosmetic products applied topically. Depigmenting ingredients were found to be ineffective and characterized by various side effects. As a result, many efforts are made to discover novel, potent, and safe melanogenesis inhibitors for possible use in topical cosmetic depigmenting formulations. Cinnamic acid derivatives constitute a widely tested group for that purpose. This article reports research in the group of N-alkyl cinnamamide derivatives (un)substituted in phenyl ring. Among tested series, (E)-3-(4-chlorophenyl)-N-(5-hydroxypentyl)acrylamide (compound 21) showed the most promising inhibitory properties in mushroom tyrosinase assay (IC50 = 36.98 ± 1.07 µM for monophenolase activity, IC50 = 146.71 ± 16.82 µM for diphenolase activity) and melanin production inhibition in B16F10 mouse melanoma cell line at concentration 6.25 µM resulting probably from decreasing of Tyr, Mitf, Tyrp-1, and Tyrp-2 genes expression. This compound also showed melanin production inhibitory properties in pigmented reconstructed human epidermis when used in 1 % and 2 % solutions in 50 % PEG400. In vitro evaluation of its safety profile showed no cytotoxicity to human keratinocytes HaCaT, human skin fibroblasts BJ, and human primary epidermal melanocytes HEMa, no mutagenicity in the Ames test, no genotoxicity in micronucleus test, no phototoxicity, as well as no skin irritation potential tested in PEG400 solution. This compound was also shown to penetrate across the epidermis to reach the possible site of action. The performed research led to classify (E)-3-(4-chlorophenyl)-N-(5-hydroxypentyl)acrylamide as a novel potential depigmenting cosmetic ingredient.

Confocal Raman Spectroscopy is recognised as a potent tool for molecular characterisation of biological specimens. There is a growing demand for In Vitro Permeation Tests (IVPT) in the pharmaceutical and cosmetic areas, increasingly conducted using Reconstructed Human Epidermis (RHE) skin models. In this study, chemical fixation of RHE in 10 % Neutral Buffered Formalin for 24 h has been examined for storing RHE samples at 4 °C for up to 21 days. Confocal Raman Spectroscopy (CRS), combined with Principal Components Analysis, revealed the molecular-level effects of fixation, notably in protein and lipid conformation within the stratum corneum and viable epidermis. IVPT by means of high-performance liquid chromatography, using caffeine as a model compound, showed minimal impact of formalin fixation on the cumulative amount, flux, and permeability coefficient after 12 h. While the biochemical architecture is altered, the function of the model as a barrier to maintain rate-limiting diffusion of active molecules within skin layers remains intact. This study opens avenues for enhanced flexibility and utility in skin model research, promising insights into mitigating the limited shelf life of RHE models by preserving performance in fixed samples for up to 21 days.

Three-dimensional human epidermal equivalents (HEEs) are a state-of-the-art organotypic culture model in preclinical investigative dermatology and regulatory toxicology. In this study, we investigated the utility of electrical impedance spectroscopy (EIS) for noninvasive measurement of HEE epidermal barrier function. Our setup comprised a custom-made lid fit with 12 electrode pairs aligned on the standard 24-transwell cell culture system. Serial EIS measurements for 7 consecutive days did not impact epidermal morphology, and readouts showed comparable trends with HEEs measured only once. We determined 2 frequency ranges in the resulting impedance spectra: a lower frequency range termed EISdiff correlated with keratinocyte terminal differentiation independent of epidermal thickness and a higher frequency range termed EISSC correlated with stratum corneum thickness. HEEs generated from CRISPR/Cas9-engineered keratinocytes that lack key differentiation genes FLG, TFAP2A, AHR, or CLDN1 confirmed that keratinocyte terminal differentiation is the major parameter defining EISdiff. Exposure to proinflammatory psoriasis- or atopic dermatitis-associated cytokine cocktails lowered the expression of keratinocyte differentiation markers and reduced EISdiff. This cytokine-associated decrease in EISdiff was normalized after stimulation with therapeutic molecules. In conclusion, EIS provides a noninvasive system to consecutively and quantitatively assess HEE barrier function and to sensitively and objectively measure barrier development, defects, and repair.

The Epidermal Sensitization Assay (EpiSensA) is a reconstructed human epidermis (RhE)-based gene expression assay for predicting the skin sensitization potential of chemicals. Since the RhE model is covered by a stratified stratum corneum, various kinds of test chemicals, including lipophilic ones and pre-/pro-haptens, can be tested with a route of exposure akin to an in vivo assay and human exposure. This article presents the results of a formally managed validation study of the EpiSensA that was carried out by three participating laboratories. The purpose of this validation study was to assess transferability of the EpiSensA to new laboratories along with its within- (WLR) and between-laboratory reproducibility (BLR). The validation study was organized into two independent stages. As demonstrated during the first stage, where three sensitizers and one non-sensitizer were correctly predicted by all participating laboratories, the EpiSensA was successfully transferred to all three participating laboratories. For Phase I of the second stage, each participating laboratory performed three experiments with an identical set of 15 coded test chemicals resulting in WLR of 93.3%, 93.3%, and 86.7%, respectively. Furthermore, when the results from the 15 test chemicals were combined with those of the additional 12 chemicals tested in Phase II of the second stage, the BLR for 27 test chemicals was 88.9%. Moreover, the predictive capacity among the three laboratories showed 92.6% sensitivity, 63.0% specificity, 82.7% accuracy, and 77.8% balanced accuracy based on murine local lymph node assay (LLNA) results. Overall, this validation study concluded that EpiSensA is easily transferable and sufficiently robust for assessing the skin sensitization potential of chemicals.