OBJECTIVE: The objective is to develop a natural and stable anti-oxidative stress and anti-ageing ingredient. In this study, we evaluated the changes in white tea leaves fermented with Eurotium cristatum PLT-PE and Saccharomyces boulardii PLT-HZ and their efficacy against skin oxidative stress.
METHODS: We employed untargeted metabolomics technology to analyse the differential metabolites between tea extract (TE) and fermented tea extract (FTE). In vitro, using H2O2-induced HaCaT cells, we evaluated cell vitality, ROS, and inflammatory factors (TNF-α, IL-1β, and IL-6). Additionally, we verified the effects on the extracellular matrix and nuclear DNA using fibroblasts or reconstructed skin models. We measured skin hydration, elasticity, wrinkle area, wrinkle area ratio, erythema area, and erythema area ratio in volunteers after using an emulsion containing 3% FTE for 28 and 56 days.
RESULTS: Targeted metabolomics analysis of white tea leaves yielded more than 20 differential metabolites with antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activities, including amino acids, polypeptides, quercetin, and liquiritin post-fermentation. FTE, compared to TE, can significantly reduce reactive oxygen species (ROS) and protect against oxidative stress-induced skin damage in H2O2-induced HaCaT cells. FTE can inhibit H2O2-induced collagen degradation by suppressing the MAPK/c-Jun signalling pathway and can also mitigate the reactive oxygen species damage to nuclear DNA. Clinical studies showed that the volunteers\' stratum corneum water content, skin elasticity, wrinkle area, wrinkle area ratio, erythema area, and erythema area ratio significantly improved from the baseline after 28 and 56 days of FTE use.
CONCLUSIONS: This study contributes to the growing body of literature supporting the protective effects against skin oxidative stress and ageing from fermented plant extracts. Moreover, our findings might inspire multidisciplinary efforts to investigate new fermentation techniques that could produce even more potent anti-ageing solutions.
OBJECTIVE: L\'objectif est de développer un ingrédient naturel et stable contre le stress oxydatif et anti‐âge. Dans cette étude, nous avons évalué les modifications dans les feuilles de thé blanc fermentées avec la PLT‐PE Eurotium cristatum et la PLT‐HZ Saccharomyces boulardii et leur efficacité contre le stress oxydatif cutané. MÉTHODES: Nous avons utilisé une technologie de métabolomique non ciblée pour analyser les métabolites différentiels entre l\'extrait de thé (ET) et l\'extrait de thé fermenté (ETF). In vitro, à l\'aide de cellules HaCaT induites par l\'H2O2, nous avons évalué la vitalité cellulaire, les ERO et les facteurs inflammatoires (TNF‐α, IL‐1β, and IL‐6). Nous avons également vérifié les effets sur la matrice extracellulaire et l\'ADN nucléaire à l\'aide de fibroblastes ou de modèles cutanés reconstruits. Nous avons mesuré l\'hydratation de la peau, l\'élasticité, la surface de rides, le rapport des surfaces de rides, la surface d\'érythème, et le rapport des surfaces d\'érythème chez des volontaires ayant utilisé une émulsion contenant 3% d\'ETF pendant 28 et 56 jours. RÉSULTATS: L\'analyse métabolomique ciblée des feuilles de thé blanc a révélé plus de 20 métabolites différentiels ayant des activités antioxydantes et anti‐inflammatoires, notamment des acides aminés, des polypeptides, de la quercétine et de la liquiritine après fermentation. Par rapport à l\'ET, l\'ETF peut réduire significativement les espèces réactives de l\'oxygène (ERO) et protéger contre les lésions cutanées induites par le stress oxydatif dans les cellules HaCaT induites par l\'H2O2. L\'ETF peut inhiber la dégradation du collagène induite par l\'H2O2 en supprimant la voie de signalization MAPK/c‐Jun et peut également atténuer les dommages causés par les espèces réactives de l\'oxygène à l\'ADN nucléaire. Les études cliniques ont montré que la teneur en eau de la couche cornée des volontaires, l\'élasticité de la peau, la surface de rides, le rapport des surfaces de rides, la surface d\'érythème et le rapport des surfaces d\'érythème se sont significativement améliorés par rapport à la référence après 28 et 56 jours d\'utilisation d\'ETF.
CONCLUSIONS: Cette étude contribue au corpus croissant de littérature soutenant les effets protecteurs des extraits de plantes fermentées contre le stress oxydatif cutané et le vieillissement. En outre, nos résultats pourraient inspirer des efforts pluridisciplinaires pour étudier de nouvelles techniques de fermentation susceptibles de produire des solutions anti‐âge encore plus puissantes.

OBJECTIVE: Magnolia biondii, a plant containing many magnolian-like compounds in its flowers or buds, exhibits anti-inflammatory and antiallergic effects; however, no study has addressed its effect on alleviating ultraviolet light (UV)-induced skin damage. We thus aimed at studying the effects of M. biondii flower extract (MB) on UVB-induced skin damage and determine the relationship between cell damage and damage-associated molecular patterns (DAMPs).
METHODS: Reconstructed epidermal models and foreskin samples were selected to detect cellular reactions after UVB irradiation and MB treatment. MTT, haematoxylin-eosin and immunofluorescence staining were used to examine total viability, sunburned cells and expression and migration of DAMPs at 16 or 48 h. Prostaglandin E2 (PGE-2) and interleukin 8 (IL-8) levels were measured using enzyme-linked immunosorbent assays. A clinical UVB-damaged test was carried out on human arms subjected to MB pre- or post-treatment. Human skin probes were used to measure erythema, melanin, ITA° and transepidermal water loss (TEWL), while skin photos were captured using the VISIA system.
RESULTS: MB is rich in lignans such as magnolin, pinoresinol dimethyl ether and fargesin, and shows weak UV absorption at 280-320 nm. Coculturing with MB for 16 or 48 h after UVB irradiation improved the tissue viability and structure of Skinovo-Epi, and reduced the expression and migration of high mobility group box protein B1 (HMGB1) as well as the expression of IL-8 and PGE-2. In the excised foreskin treated with MB after UVB irradiation, the generation of 8-hidroxy-2-deoxyguanosine and nuclear transfer of HMGB1 were reduced. When pre-treated with MB for 3 days, UVB-induced skin erythema and ITA° were significantly decreased. When post-treated with MB for 5 days, a decrease in skin erythema, melanin and TEWL values and an increase in skin ITA° were observed.
CONCLUSIONS: Treatment with MB attenuated UVB-induced skin damage, such as erythema, pigmentation and skin barrier function, by improving the tissue viability and structure and reducing sunburned cells and skin inflammation. This effect may be related to DNA damage, which causes the migration of HMGB1 from the nucleus to the outside of the cell to induce skin inflammation.
OBJECTIVE: Magnolia biondii, une plante dont les fleurs et les bourgeons contiennent de nombreux composés de type magnolien, possède des effets anti‐inflammatoires et antiallergiques. Cependant, aucune étude n\'a abordé son effet sur la réduction des lésions cutanées induites par la lumière ultraviolette (UV). Dès lors, nous avons cherché à étudier les effets de l\'extrait de fleur de M. biondii sur les lésions cutanées induites par les UVB et à déterminer le lien entre les lésions cellulaires et les profils moléculaires associés aux lésions (PMAL). MÉTHODES: Des modèles épidermiques reconstruits et des échantillons de prépuce ont été sélectionnés pour détecter les réactions cellulaires après une irradiation aux UVB et un traitement par extrait de fleur de M. biondii. Le test MTT, l\'hématoxyline‐éosine (HE) et la coloration par immunofluorescence ont été utilisés pour examiner la viabilité totale, les cellules brûlées par le soleil, ainsi que l\'expression et la migration des PMAL à 16 ou 48 h. Les taux de prostaglandine E2 (PGE‐2) et d\'interleukine 8 (IL‐8) ont été mesurés par dosages immuno‐enzymatiques (ELISA). Une analyse clinique des lésions dues aux UVB avant ou après traitement a été effectuée sur des bras humains traités par extrait de fleur de M. biondii. Des sondes cutanées humaines ont permis de mesurer l\'érythème, le taux de mélanine, l\'ITA° et la perte en eau transépidermique, tandis que la peau a été photographiée à l\'aide du système VISIA. RÉSULTATS: L\'extrait de fleur de M. biondii est riche en lignans, comme la magnoline, le pinorésinol diméthyléther et la fargésine, et montre une faible absorption des UV à une longueur d\'onde de 280 à 320 nm. La mise en culture de l\'extrait de fleur de M. biondii pendant 16 ou 48 h après irradiation aux UVB a amélioré la viabilité et la structure des tissus de Skinovo‐Epi et réduit l\'expression et la migration de la protéine B1 du groupe à haute mobilité (HMGB1), ainsi que l\'expression de l\'IL‐8 et de la PGE‐2. Dans le prépuce excisé traité par extrait de fleur de M. biondii après irradiation aux UVB, la génération de 8‐hidroxy‐2‐désoxyguanosine et le transfert nucléaire de HMGB1 étaient réduits. Lors d\'un prétraitement par extrait de fleur de M. biondii pendant 3 jours, l\'érythème cutané induit par les UVB et l\'ITA° avaient diminué significativement. Lors d\'un post‐traitement par extrait de fleur de M. biondii pendant 5 jours, une diminution des valeurs de l\'érythème cutané, de la mélanine et de la perte en eau transépidermique et une augmentation de l\'ITA° cutané ont été observées.
CONCLUSIONS: Le traitement par extrait de fleur de M. biondii a atténué les lésions cutanées induites par les UVB, comme l\'érythème, la pigmentation et la fonction de barrière cutanée, en améliorant la viabilité et la structure des tissus et en réduisant les cellules brûlées par le soleil et l\'inflammation cutanée. Cet effet peut être lié à une altération de l\'ADN, qui entraînent la migration du HMGB1 du noyau vers l\'extérieur de la cellule, induisant ainsi une inflammation cutanée.

BACKGROUND: Skin type has a strong influence on how sensitive skin develops, with oily skin accounting for a larger proportion of sensitive skin. However, there has not been a scientifically sound questionnaire for determining oily sensitive (OS)-type skin in prior studies.
OBJECTIVE: In order to identify OS-type skin in the general population, we therefore intend to create an OS-type skin evaluation questionnaire, develop various thresholds through data analysis and classify skin based on two dimensions of sensitivity and oiliness.
METHODS: A questionnaire with questions regarding subjects\' basic information, skin oiliness and skin sensitivity was given to each individual who participated in the study (n = 1297). To define the thresholds for OS-type skin, receiver-operating characteristic (ROC) curves were generated. The results of the lactic acid stinging test (LAST) and noninvasive instrument information obtained were compared with the thresholds mentioned above to verify the effectiveness of this tool.
RESULTS: According to the ROC curves, questionnaire cut-off values of 11.5, 20.5 and 29.5 can be used to detect mildly, moderately and severely sensitive skin, respectively. In addition, the questionnaire cut-off values of 22.5 and 31.5 can be used to detect moderately and severely oily skin, respectively. According to our study, the four sensitive-skin groups\' LAST scores differed significantly from one another, while the skin sebum levels differed significantly between the three oily groups. Additionally, the EI and LAST scores were significantly correlated with skin sensitivity levels, whereas sebum, moisture and EI were positively correlated with skin oiliness levels.
CONCLUSIONS: We developed an OS-type skin evaluation questionnaire that has been tested and shown scientifically to be a promising method for evaluating OS-type skin and to completely examine the traits of sensitive and oily skin.
BACKGROUND: Le type de peau a une forte influence sur la sensibilité de la peau, avec une peau grasse représentant une plus grande proportion de peaux sensibles. Cependant, il n’y a pas eu de questionnaire scientifiquement fiable pour déterminer le type de peau sensible grasse (OS) dans les études antérieures.
OBJECTIVE: Afin d’identifier la peau grasse et sensible dans la population générale, nous avons donc l’intention de créer un questionnaire d’évaluation de la peau grasse et sensible, d’élaborer différents seuils par l’analyse des données et de catégoriser à partir de deux dimensions de sensibilité et d’état huileux. MÉTHODES: Un questionnaire comprenant des questions sur les informations de base des sujets, la sécrétion de sébum de la peau et la sensibilité cutanée a été distribué à chaque individu ayant participé à l’étude (n = 1297). Pour définir les seuils des peaux grasse et sensible, des courbes sensibilité/spécificité (receiver-operating characteristic, ROC) ont été générées. Les résultats du test de picotement à l’acide lactique (LAST) et les informations obtenues à l’aide d’instruments non invasifs ont été comparés aux seuils mentionnés ci-dessus pour vérifier l’efficacité de cet outil. RÉSULTATS: Selon les courbes ROC, des valeurs limites du questionnaire de 11,5, 20,5 et 29,5 peuvent être utilisées pour détecter une sensibilité cutanée légère, modérée et sévère, respectivement. De plus, les valeurs de seuil du questionnaire de 22,5 et 31,5 peuvent être utilisées pour détecter respectivement une peau modérément et sévèrement grasse. Selon notre étude, les scores LAST des quatre groupes à peau sensible différaient significativement les uns des autres, tandis que les taux de sébum cutané différaient significativement entre les trois groupes à peau grasse. De plus, les scores IE et LAST étaient significativement corrélés avec les taux de sensibilité cutanée, tandis que le sébum, l’humidité et l’IE étaient positivement corrélés avec les taux de graisse cutané.
CONCLUSIONS: Nous avons développé un questionnaire d’évaluation de la peau grasse et sensible qui a été testé et qui s’est avéré scientifiquement être une méthode prometteuse pour évaluer la peau grasse et sensible et pour examiner complètement les caractéristiques de la peau sensible et grasse.

Background: The association between the body surface and viscera remains obscure, but a better understanding of the body surface-viscera correlation will maximize its diagnostic and therapeutic values in clinical practice. Therefore, this study aimed to investigate the specificity of body surface-viscera correlation in the pathological state. Methods: The study subjects included 40 participants with chronic obstructive pulmonary disease (COPD) in the COPD group and 40 age-matched healthy participants in the healthy control group. Laser Doppler flowmetry, infrared thermography, and functional near-infrared spectroscopy were respectively adopted to measure 1) the perfusion unit (PU), 2) temperature, and 3) regional oxygen saturation (rSO2) of four specific sites distributed in the heart and lung meridians. These three outcome measures reflected the microcirculatory, thermal, and metabolic characteristics, respectively. Results: Regarding the microcirculatory and thermal characteristics of the body surface, the PU and temperature of specific sites on the body surface [i.e., Taiyuan (LU9) and Chize (LU5) in the lung meridian] in the COPD group were significantly increased compared with healthy controls (p < 0.05), whereas PU and temperature of other sites in the heart meridian [i.e., Shenmen (HT7) and Shaohai (HT3)] did not change significantly (p > 0.05). Regarding the metabolic characteristics, rSO2 of specific sites in the lung meridian [i.e., Taiyuan (LU9) and Chize (LU5)] and Shaohai (HT3) of the heart meridian in the COPD group was significantly decreased compared with healthy controls (p < 0.01), whereas rSO2 of Shenmen (HT7) in the heart meridian did not change significantly (p > 0.05). Conclusion: In the disease state of COPD, the microcirculatory, thermal, and metabolic characteristics of specific sites on the body surface in the lung meridian generally manifest more significant changes than those in the heart meridian, thereby supporting relative specificity for the body surface-viscera correlation in the pathological state.

BACKGROUND: Dermatosis is a general term for diseases of the skin and skin appendages including scleroderma, psoriasis, bullous disease, atopic dermatitis, basal cell carcinoma, squamous cell carcinoma, and melanoma. These diseases affect millions of individuals globally and are a serious public health concern. However, the pathogenesis of skin diseases is not fully understood, and treatments are not optimal. Yes-associated protein (YAP) is a transcriptional coactivator that plays a role in the regulation of gene transcription and signal transduction.
OBJECTIVE: To study the role of Yes-associated protein in skin diseases.
METHODS: The present review summarizes recent advances in our understanding of the role of YAP in skin diseases, current treatments that target YAP, and potential avenues for novel therapies.
RESULTS: Abnormal YAP expression has been implicated in occurrence and development of dermatosis. YAP regulates the cell homeostasis, proliferation, differentiation, apoptosis, angiopoiesis, and epithelial-to-mesenchymal transition, among other processes. As well as, it serves as a potential target in many biological processes for treating dermatosis.
CONCLUSIONS: The effects of YAP on the skin are complex and require multidimensional investigational approaches. YAP functions as an oncoprotein that can promote the occurrence and development of cancer, but there is currently limited information on the therapeutic potential of YAP inhibition for cancer treatment. Additional studies are also needed to clarify the role of YAP in the development and maturation of dermal fibroblasts; skin barrier function, homeostasis, aging, and melanin production; and dermatosis.

OBJECTIVE: The biological safety of natural jade materials and assembled jade-activated materials on cells and their anti-inflammatory and damage repair functions, as well as the repair function on sensitive skin, were studied utilizing in vitro cell biology and in vivo.
METHODS: Human skin fibroblasts were used as model cells to conduct cytotoxicity experiments in vitro, and the effects on the expression of inflammatory factors and growth factor-related genes in fibroblasts were explored. The gene expression values of inflammatory factors IL-1, IL-6, TNF-α and cytokines epidermal growth factors, fibroblast growth factors and COL1A1 in fibroblasts were measured by polymerase chain reaction test. Thirty women with sensitive skin were selected to apply a mask containing jade extract three times a week. After two weeks, non-invasive measures related to skin sensitivity were tested.
RESULTS: We confirmed the presence of anti-inflammatory effects in both jade materials, with the effects of the assembled activated jade material being superior to that of the natural jade material. Jade extracts significantly increased the gene expressions of EGF, FGF and COL1A1 in HDF. The results of the in vivo study showed that the mask containing jade extract could significantly increase the skin hydration and decrease the rate of transepidermal water loss and skin lactic acid sting test scores after two weeks of use. Subjective evaluations confirmed improvements in skin dryness, smoothness and fineness. No new sensitization occurred in subjects, and the product was non-irritating. No adverse skin reactions were observed during the test.
CONCLUSIONS: The jade materials were able to downregulate the expression of inflammatory factor genes, up-regulate the expression of growth factor genes, and improve the anti-inflammation and repair ability of skin. Furthermore, the test results of participants with sensitive skin after using the mask containing jade extract showed that the mask has repairing ability.
OBJECTIVE: L’innocuité du jade naturel, et des substances assemblées activées par le jade, sur les cellules, leurs effets anti-inflammatoire et réparateur, ainsi que leur action réparatrice sur les peaux sensibles ont été étudiés au moyen de la biologie cellulaire in vitro et in vivo. MÉTHODES: Des fibroblastes de peau humaine (HDF - Human Dermal Fibrolasts) ont été utilisés comme cellules modèles pour réaliser des tests de cytotoxicité in vitro, et les effets sur l’expression des facteurs inflammatoires et des gènes associés aux facteurs de croissance dans les fibroblastes ont été étudiés. Les valeurs de l’expression génique des facteurs inflammatoires IL-1, IL-6, TNF-α, des facteurs de croissance épidermique des cytokines (EGF - Epidermal Growth Factor), des facteurs de croissance des fibroblastes (FGF - Fibroblast Growth Factor), et du COL1A1 (Gène Collagen, type I, alpha 1) dans les fibroblastes ont été mesurées au moyen d’un test de réaction en chaîne par polymérase. Trente femmes présentant une peau sensible ont été sélectionnées pour appliquer un masque contenant de l’extrait de jade trois fois par semaine. Au bout de deux semaines, des mesures non invasives de la sensibilité de la peau ont été réalisées. RÉSULTATS: Nous confirmons la présence d’effets anti-inflammatoires pour les deux substances, avec de meilleurs résultats pour la substance assemblée activée par le jade comparé à ceux du jade naturel. Les extraits de jade ont significativement augmenté l’expression de l’EGF, du FGF, et du COL1A1 dans les HDF. Les résultats de l’étude in vivo ont révélé que le masque contenant de l’extrait de jade pouvait améliorer significativement l’hydratation de la peau, réduire le pourcentage de perte en eau trans-épidermique et améliorer les résultats du test de piqûre d’acide lactique (LAST - Lactic Acid Sting Test) de la peau après deux semaines d’utilisation. Les évaluations subjectives ont confirmé des améliorations de la sécheresse cutanée, de la douceur et de la finesse du grain de la peau. Aucune nouvelle sensibilisation n’est apparue chez les sujets, et le produit s’est avéré non-irritant. De même, aucune réaction cutanée indésirable n’a été observée pendant le test.
CONCLUSIONS: Le jade a été capable de réguler à la baisse l’expression des gènes associés aux facteurs inflammatoires, de réguler à la hausse l’expression des gènes associés aux facteurs de croissance, et d’améliorer les capacités anti-inflammatoire et réparatrice de la peau. De plus, après utilisation du masque contenant de l’extrait de jade, les résultats des tests chez les participantes ayant une peau sensible ont démontré que ce masque avait une capacité réparatrice.

OBJECTIVE: The re-greasing process and kinetics of the human scalp, post-shampooing, have been previously documented, in vivo, on a few Caucasian subjects. The objective of the presented research was to extend such knowledge over seven different ethnic groups.
METHODS: The post-shampooing re-greasing kinetics of the scalp was studied on 1325 subjects (women and men of two distinct age classes) from seven different ethnic groups in their residential and native country. Sebum amounts were determined onto small shaved scalp areas at various times post-shampooing, using the Sebumeter® technique.
RESULTS: As previously published on Caucasian subjects, scalp re-greasing process follows a hyperbolic-like kinetics over days. However, amounts of collected sebum highly vary with ethnicity. As recorded through the casual level (CL) at the equilibrium phase, 2-3 days post-shampooing, the highest amount of sebum was found in African American subjects, followed in descending order by Caucasian American, Japanese, Chinese, Thai, Caucasian European and Indian subjects, the latter showing very low values. Lower amounts of sebum were recorded in the older age class in all ethnics, as compared to the younger one, and male subjects were found higher sebum producers than women, irrespective of ethnicity.
CONCLUSIONS: The kinetics and slopes of the re-greasing process of the human scalp appear similar in all ethnic groups studied. However, striking quantitative differences are found between the seven ethnic groups, resulting from different sebaceous production levels and scalp hygiene routines.

OBJECTIVE: The roots of the herb Paeonia lactiflora (\'White Peony\') are used in association with other herbs in traditional clinical cosmetic practice in China as oral treatment for skin pigmentary disorders, such as brown or dark pigmentary spots. However, the skin-depigmenting potential of Paeonia lactiflora root extract and its main ingredient paeoniflorin has been scarcely investigated by topical application. The purpose of this study was to evaluate the efficacy of Paeonia lactiflora root extract and paeoniflorin as skin whitening agent in cosmetic application.
METHODS: Paeonia lactiflora root extract (containing 53.25% of paeoniflorin) and paeoniflorin (97% purity) were applied topically on reconstructed pigmented human epidermis model, a three-dimensional (3D) human skin equivalent, showing morphological and functional characteristics similar to those of in vivo human skin. Two specific methods were used for quantifying melanin inside the reconstructed pigmented epidermis: Fontana-Masson staining (2D quantification) and multiphoton microscopy (3D quantification).
RESULTS: Compared to vehicle (dimethyl sulfoxide DMSO), a significant decrease in 2D and 3D melanin content was observed after topical application on reconstructed pigmented epidermis of Paeonia lactiflora extract at 300 μg mL(-1) (-28% and -27%, respectively) and paeoniflorin at 120 μg mL(-1) /250 μM (-30% and -23%, respectively), which is in the same order of magnitude as the positive reference 4-n-butylresorcinol at 83 μg mL(-1) /500 μM (-26% and -40%, respectively).
CONCLUSIONS: These results demonstrate, for the first time, the depigmenting potential of paeoniflorin and thus the potential interest of using Paeonia lactiflora root extracts containing paeoniflorin in cosmetic or dermatological applications for reducing the severity of some hyperpigmented skin disorders.

OBJECTIVE: After preliminary studies aimed at measuring pertinent biochemical parameters, potentially modified in subjects exposed to bad environmental conditions, a dedicated study was performed in Shanghai city to evaluate the effect of Urban pollution upon human skin and to collect feedback from the volunteers under study.
METHODS: This study was performed during summer 2008 in two different districts of Shanghai, on 159 local residents: 79 subjects from Xu Jia Hui (a centre Shanghainese area), more exposed to pollution, and 80 subjects from Chong Ming, an agricultural region closely located north of Shanghai (<100 kms) and less exposed to pollution, according to official data. Biochemical parameters were measured on skin, and feedback from volunteers was collected through a graduated \'Likert scale\' questionnaire under a point scale (strongly agree, agree, disagree, strongly disagree and none).
RESULTS: The study demonstrated significant differences in several biochemical parameters measured in Chong Ming area, as compared to Urban area, with an increased ratio of squalene/lipids, a lower level of lactic acid and a better cohesion of stratum corneum. Both sebum excretion rate and sebum casual levels did not differ between the two districts. The volunteer\'s feedback evidenced a perceived link between pollution and their skin problems.
CONCLUSIONS: This study demonstrated a significant impact of the pollution upon the skin status, as illustrated by changes in superficial biochemical parameters and volunteers\' perception.

Dandruff is a scalp disorder characterized by the formation of flaky white-yellowish scales due to an altered proliferation and differentiation status; a disrupted barrier function; a decrease in the level of hydration and of natural moisturizing factors (NMF) in the scalp, with a persistent and relapsing inflammatory condition. It was recently reported that an imbalance between bacterial and fungal species colonizing the scalp of French volunteers was associated with dandruff condition. The purpose of the present study was to analyze the major bacterial and fungal species present on the scalp surface of Chinese volunteers and to investigate possible region-related variation in the microbiota linked to dandruff condition. The data obtained from the Chinese populations were highly similar to those obtained in France, confirming that dandruff scalps are associated with a higher incidence of Malassezia restricta and Staphylococcal sp. The ratios of Malassezia to Propionibacterium and Propionibacterium to Staphylococcus were also significantly higher in the dandruff volunteers as compared to normal volunteers, suggesting that equilibrium between the major bacterial and fungal taxa found on the normal scalps is perturbed in the dandruff scalps. The main difference between the French and Shanghai subjects was in their Staphylococcal biota. The results obtained in China and in France suggest that targeting one particular Malassezia sp. by antifungals instead of using large spectrum antifungals and rebalancing the dandruff scalp microbiota could be common approach to improve dandruff condition in the two countries.