PDF(Pubmed)
Abstract：
An industry listed as one of the largest globally is the cosmetic industry. In recent years, this industry has shown growing interest in the application of natural ingredients providing advanced properties to cosmetic creams such as moisturizing, antioxidant, sun-protecting and antimicrobial effects. In this context, the present study concerns the production of cosmetic emulsions containing hippophae oil obtained via the methods of extraction, hydro-distillation and maceration using sunflower oil as the carrier oil. Firstly, an IR-ATR analysis was performed showing that the oils prepared were close to those commercially obtained. Then, the stability of the emulsions was tested over a time period of four months through measuring their pH and viscosity values with positive outcomes, and their antioxidant ability was also measured using the DPPH method. The latter one showed that hippophae oil greatly improves the antioxidant capacity. Moreover, based on the fact that sea buckthorn contains carotenoids, the SPF value of the emulsions was determined. The results showed that the addition of hippophae oil to the emulsions gave higher absorption in UV-Vis, thus higher SPF values. Py-GC/MS analysis was used to identify decomposition compounds in the produced oils. Among those, valuable compounds such as Ω-6, Ω-7 and Ω-9 fatty acids and many aldehydes were found by the decomposition of the oils.
摘要：
化妆品行业是全球最大的行业之一。近年来,该行业对天然成分的应用表现出越来越大的兴趣，这些天然成分为化妆品面霜提供了先进的性能，如保湿，抗氧化剂，防晒和抗菌效果。在这种情况下，本研究涉及通过提取方法获得的含有沙棘油的化妆品乳液的生产，以葵花籽油为载体油进行加氢蒸馏和浸渍。首先,进行IR-ATR分析,显示所制备的油接近于商业获得的油。然后，通过测量乳液的pH值和粘度值，在四个月的时间内测试乳液的稳定性，和它们的抗氧化能力也用DPPH方法测量。后者表明沙棘油大大提高了抗氧化能力。此外，基于沙棘含有类胡萝卜素的事实，测定乳液的SPF值。结果表明，向乳液中添加沙棘油可以在UV-Vis中获得更高的吸收，因此更高的SPF值。Py-GC/MS分析用于鉴定产生的油中的分解化合物。其中,通过油的分解发现了有价值的化合物，例如Ω-6，Ω-7和Ω-9脂肪酸以及许多醛。
