BACKGROUND: Seborrhea poses a common cosmetic concern in adolescents and young adults, often accompanied by enlarged pores, and contributing to various skin conditions, including acne vulgaris and seborrheic dermatitis. At present, there is a lack of effective treatment for this problem, and the potential of photodynamic therapy (PDT) in reducing sebum remains inconclusive.
OBJECTIVE: This exploratory, prospective, single-center, double-blinded, randomized split-face controlled trial aimed to compare the efficacy and safety of intense pulsed light-photodynamic therapy (IPL-PDT) versus IPL therapy for seborrhea.
METHODS: Participants with seborrhea underwent 3 times of IPL treatment (590 nm, 15-17 J/cm2 based on patient\'s tolerance) for one hemifacial part and IPL-PDT treatment for the other. Follow-up assessment was conducted up to 8 weeks after the final treatment.
RESULTS: Compared with single IPL treatment, IPL-PDT can significantly inhibit sebum secretion and decrease pore size. PDT group exhibited no additional damage to the skin barrier, with even lower transepidermal water loss (TEWL). Additionally, the PDT group showed superior improvement in scores of porphyrins, red areas, and ultraviolet (UV) spots. Both groups experienced only mild topical adverse effects, well tolerated by the participants.
CONCLUSIONS: IPL-PDT is a more effective method than IPL in the treatment of seborrhea, as well as on the improvement of the skin barrier function.

BACKGROUND: Oily skin is a common concern in the field of dermatology due to its association with excessive sebum production, acne, blackheads, and enlarged facial pores. Therefore, it is in great demand to develop effective cosmetics to manage oily skin.
OBJECTIVE: To evaluate the clinical efficacy of a novel emulsion containing niacinamide, lens esculenta seed extract, and white willow bark extract for oily skin.
METHODS: The efficacy of a novel emulsion was evaluated through a 56-day clinical trial. The clinical efficacy of the product to ameliorate acne, blackheads, and conspicuous facial pores was assessed on 30 subjects with oily skin by VISIA, PRIMOS, professional dermatologist evaluations, and subject self-assessment.
RESULTS: In the clinical trial, the participants showed high satisfaction with the emulsion\'s efficacy, reporting significant improvement in skin sebum secretion, acne, facial pores, and blackheads. The efficacy of the novel emulsion was further validated through VISIA and PRIMOS measurements, along with professional dermatologist evaluations.
CONCLUSIONS: Our results showed that the novel emulsion containing three active ingredients could effectively improve acne, blackheads, and conspicuous facial pores.

BACKGROUND: Oily skin, characterized by excessive sebum production, can lead to acne and have psychosocial impacts due to changes in appearance. Recent research has shown interest in treatments for oil control, with kaolin and bentonite emerging as promising options. Despite their potential, comprehensive studies on these ingredients are still in the nascent stages.
OBJECTIVE: This study aimed to assess the efficacy of a clay mask (La Roche-Posay Effaclar Sebo-Controlling Mask) in reducing skin oiliness and acne, and its safety for use.
METHODS: In this study, 75 adults with oily or combination skin were enrolled and provided with a clay mask for twice-weekly use over 4 weeks. Clinical assessments, using instruments like Sebumeter, Vapometer, and Corneometer, were conducted at baseline, and after 1, 2, and 4 weeks, evaluating acne lesions, skin irritation, sebum content, and skin hydration. Participant self-assessment questionnaires were also utilized for subjective evaluation. Statistical analyses were performed accordingly.
RESULTS: The study revealed significant improvements in acne-related outcomes, sebum content, skin evenness, stratum corneum water content, and transepidermal water loss following the application of the clay mask. Pore area and porphyrin area showed no significant changes. Tolerance assessment showed reduced dryness and irritation, with self-assessment indicating high product acceptability and perceived oil control effectiveness.
CONCLUSIONS: This study demonstrated the clay mask\'s efficacy in managing acne and oily skin, improving hydration and texture. Significant improvements in skin parameters and high product safety were observed, supporting its suitability.

BACKGROUND: Acne often worsens in transmasculine patients who are on prolonged testosterone therapy. Isotretinoin is an oral retinoid used in the treatment of severe or refractory cases of acne, but it has the potential to cause delayed wound healing. Transmasculine patients may potentially be prescribed treatment for acne with isotretinoin while also planning to undergo chest masculinization surgery.
OBJECTIVE: This scoping review aims to determine whether isotretinoin has a negative impact on postoperative healing in transmasculine patients undergoing chest masculinization surgery.
METHODS: A scoping review was performed using the PubMed and Ovid databases. A total of 16 publications were selected for inclusion.
RESULTS: Acne tends to peak in transmasculine patients 6 months after initiation of testosterone treatment. Severe cases can be treated with isotretinoin; however, acne may recur once treatment is discontinued, given ongoing hormone therapy. There is little to no evidence in the medical literature regarding perioperative use of isotretinoin specifically among transmasculine patients undergoing chest masculinization surgery. In general, however, recent studies have found no evidence of increased hypertrophic scars or keloids in patients taking isotretinoin.
CONCLUSIONS: Further studies are required to strengthen the current evidence that suggests that isotretinoin does not need to be discontinued before or after incisional or excisional surgeries, including chest masculinization surgery in transmasculine patients.

BACKGROUND: Seborrhea leads to facial greasiness and unpleasant feeling. People with seborrhea also have trouble with selecting moisturizers. l-Carnitine and epigallocatechin gallate (EGCG) are reported anti-sebum properties. However, neither efficacy comparison nor the combination effect of the two topical anti-sebum agents was studied. Moisturizing cream with these agents is supposed to provide skin with an optimal water-oil balance.
OBJECTIVE: To compare the efficacy of moisturizer containing 2% l-carnitine or 5% EGCG alone on sebum controlling, and the synergistic effect of these two agents.
METHODS: Three study creams were formulated by adding three kinds of anti-sebum agents which were 2% l-carnitine, 5% EGCG, and 2% l-carnitine plus 5% EGCG in moisturizing cream base of dimethicone and glycerin. A randomized clinical trial was conducted. Ninety subjects, divided into three groups, applied the cream for 4 weeks. Sebum level, skin capacitance, and transepidermal water loss (TEWL) were evaluated at Weeks 0, 1, 2, and 4. Life qualities and subjective outcomes were assessed before and after treatment.
RESULTS: The mean sebum reduction from baseline was statistically significant in all treatment groups (p < 0.01). The median time to oil control was longer in l-carnitine group. The combine group had significantly greater anti-sebum efficacy than l-carnitine group (p = 0.009). All three groups had significant improvement of other objective parameters and subjective outcomes.
CONCLUSIONS: The anti-sebum moisturizing cream exhibited beneficial effect on the sebum reduction with improve skin hydration in people with seborrhea and made users satisfied. The EGCG group and the combine group show the greater anti-sebum effect than the l-carnitine group.

BACKGROUND: People with oily skin often suffer from skin problems such as oily face, blackheads, acne, and enlarged pores. It is necessary to regulate oily skin with skin care products.
OBJECTIVE: To develop an effective sebum control essence to reduce oiliness of skin.
METHODS: The composition of the essence was designed in consideration of different oil control mechanism targets. The skin irritation was assessed in 30 volunteers by a single application close patch test. The efficacy of the essence was evaluated by in vitro experiment, short- and long-term clinical trials with over 60 volunteers.
RESULTS: The results of both in vitro and clinical trials showed that the essence had significant oil control and moisturizing effect, the skin oil content decreased by 21.8% within 8 h and 30.05% after 28 days, which indicated that the essence could achieve rapid and persistent sebum control efficacy. In addition, the essence could relieve the problems of enlarged pores, blackheads and whiteheads in long-term use.
CONCLUSIONS: The essence developed in this study can alleviate the problems of oily skin from many aspects, and achieve an excellent effect in oily skin regulation. It is suitable for a daily application in oily skin regulation.

BACKGROUND: Although the scientific literature associates mature skin with dry skin and the secretion of sebum on the face decreases over the years, in tropical countries, such as Brazil, mature skin can still present oily characteristics. Thus, the knowledge of the hydrophilic characteristics of mature skin is fundamental to help the development of more effective treatments for this skin type. In this context, the study aimed to evaluate the hydrophilic characteristics and the clinical efficacy of a cosmetic formulation for mature skin added with alfalfa and lentil extracts by using biophysical and skin imaging techniques.
METHODS: Twenty-eight healthy females aged between 45 and 59 years were enrolled. Measurements of the stratum corneum water content, sebum content, transepidermal water loss, skin microrelief, and pores count were performed before and after the 28-day formulation application.
RESULTS: The mature skin presented as oily with wrinkles and pores. The proposed formulation significantly reduced the sebum content and the number of fine and large pores and improved skin microrelief and hydration after a 28-day period of the application when compared to the vehicle.
CONCLUSIONS: The proposed formulation was effective in oily mature skin treatment, improving its general skin aging and oiliness conditions, and reducing pores count in just 28 days.

Oily, acne-prone skin is a common skin type which may be monitored in vivo using reflectance confocal microscopy (RCM). The aim of the study was to assess the feasibility of RCM in evaluating the effectiveness of a topical combination of alpha- and beta-hydroxy acids, anti-inflammatory and antibacterial molecules, and Herculane thermal water on acne-prone skin. Thirty-five subjects with oily, acne-prone skin were prescribed topical combination products and were evaluated by clinical, Wood\'s lamp, and RCM imaging at baseline and after 28 days. At 28 days, the RCM-evaluated number of dilated infundibula, infundibula filled with keratotic material, and infundibula with thickened bright borders, as well as the density of the inflammatory infiltrate, were significantly decreased. Wood\'s light images at 28 days showed a significantly reduced number of C. acnes-colonized infundibula, and both the median area and the intensity of the red-orange fluorescence were decreased. The reduction in the clinical score was concurrent with the improvement in the RCM parameters, suggesting that this non-invasive imaging technique is appropriate for efficiency evaluations of topical acne treatments.

BACKGROUND: Skin pores are enlarged openings of the pilosebaceous follicles that can be affected by age, gender, genetics, exposure to UV light, ethnicity, and sebum secretion. Many treatment modalities reduce facial pores\' count and area, including oral and topical medications as well as different wavelengths of lasers. Finding a safe and cost-effective treatment protocol is necessary since facial pores are one of the main reasons for cosmetic complaints.
OBJECTIVE: This review compares available treatment options for reducing facial pores\' number and area according to the published clinical trials.
METHODS: A search on PubMed and Google Scholar was performed. Nineteen published clinical trials regarding treatment options for facial pores were included and reviewed based on the authors\' clinical experience.
RESULTS: A total number of 591 cases (83.7% female) aged 18-80 years were included. Three assessment methods including digital imaging, physician assessment, and patient\' satisfaction were used in the studies to evaluate the therapeutic efficacy of each modality. Furthermore, combining different modalities increased the efficacy of reducing pores\' size and number. Mild, reversible burning and erythema were common side effects.
CONCLUSIONS: Multiple sessions and combination therapies improve facial pores\' area and number. In young patients, the focus should be on controlling sebum production, while in older patients, the focus should be on rejuvenation in addition to the control of sebum production.

BACKGROUND: Botanical ingredients are widely used in hair- and skin-care products. However, few studies have investigated the effectiveness of botanical products on counteracting sebum synthesis and secretion.
OBJECTIVE: To investigate the composition of Lotus corniculatus seed extract (LC) and its potential inhibition of lipogenesis in SZ95 sebocytes and oily human skin.
METHODS: The active components of LC solutions were identified by high-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC) and nuclear magnetic resonance (NMR). The in vitro effects of LC were evaluated using SZ95 cells treated with linoleic acid (LA) and dihydrotestosterone (DHT) and incubated with LCs for 24 h and 72 h. Lipogenesis was assessed by Oil Red O and Nile Red staining of the cells. In vivo effects were assessed on 30 subjects with oily skin who were enrolled in a randomized, blank-controlled trial and were treated with LC solution for 6 h and 4 weeks. The skin sebum contents and area on the forehead and cheeks were evaluated using a Sebumeter SM815 and Sebfix sebutape with Visioscan VC98. In addition, VISIA was used to collect half-face photos for analysis.
RESULTS: A novel active molecule, 5\'-o-rhamnosyl uridine, was identified in LC. LC exhibited a dose-dependent inhibitory effect on LA and DHT-induced lipid synthesis. When 5% LC was applied for 3 h, the skin sebum contents and area were significantly reduced compared with the vehicle control, with an obvious reduction after 6 h. Continued use of the serum containing 5% LC for 4 weeks resulted in a significant reduction in the skin sebum contents and area. No adverse reactions were reported during the study.
CONCLUSIONS: Topical application of LC resulted in an immediate and long-lasting reduction of the sebum contents and area of oily human skin by reducing sebaceous lipogenesis through the LA and DHT pathways. This indicates the potential of LC as a new biological treatment for oily skin.
BACKGROUND: Les ingrédients végétaux sont largement utilisés dans les produits de soins des cheveux et de la peau. Cependant, peu d\'études ont examiné l\'efficacité des produits végétaux dans l\'inhibition de la synthèse et de la sécrétion de sébum.
OBJECTIVE: Étudier les composants de l\'extrait de graines de lotus (LC) et son effet inhibiteur potentiel sur la lipogenèse des cellules sébacées SZ95 et de la peau grasse. MÉTHODES: Les composants actifs de la solution LC ont été identifiés par chromatographie liquide à haute performance (HPLC) et par résonance magnétique nucléaire (NMR). Les effets de la LC in vitro ont été évalués à l\'aide de cellules SZ95 traitées à l\'acide linoléique (LA) et à la dihydrotestostérone (DHT) et incubées avec la LC pendant 24 et 72 heures. Les effets in vivo ont été évalués chez 30 sujets à peau grasse qui ont participé à un essai contrôlé randomisé à blanc et qui ont été traités avec une solution de LC pendant 6 heures et 4 semaines. Le sebumeter SM815 et le sebfix sebutape et le visioscan VC98 ont été utilisés pour évaluer la teneur en sébum et la surface de la peau sur le front et les joues. De plus, des photos de demi - visage ont été recueillies pour analyse à l\'aide de VISIA. RÉSULTATS: Une nouvelle molécule active, 5′-o-rhamnosyluridine, a été identifiée dans la LC. La LC a un effet inhibiteur dose - dépendant sur la synthèse lipidique induite par LA et DHT. La teneur et la surface du sébum cutané ont été significativement diminuées par rapport à celles du support photographique après 3 heures d\'application de 5% de LC, et significativement diminuées après 6 heures. L\'utilization de sérum contenant 5% de LC pendant quatre semaines consécutives a entraîné une réduction significative de la teneur en sébum et de la surface de la peau. Aucun effet indésirable n\'a été signalé au cours de l\'étude.
CONCLUSIONS: L\'application topique de LC peut réduire la production de sébum par les voies LA et DHT, ce qui réduit immédiatement et durablement la teneur en sébum et la surface de la peau huileuse humaine. Cela démontre le potentiel de la LC en tant que nouveau traitement biologique de la peau huileuse.