■Strobe训练是一种视觉训练,运动员必须在间歇性黑暗条件下练习。Strobe训练提高了视觉,感性的,和认知技能,这将提高运动表现。Strobe训练可以影响攀岩中的多个训练组件:心理,战术,物理,和技术培训。
■这项研究是对来自罗马尼亚的17名精英登山者(10名男性和7名女性)进行的,代表整个国家青年登山队。研究组分为对照组(n=8)和实验组(n=9)。使用的仪器是Cognitrom电池(用于认知技能,如空间技能和反应性),WittySEM系统(用于运动认知技能,比如认知敏捷性,视觉处理速度,和视觉记忆),以及国际攀岩研究协会(IRCRA)与攀岩者性能相关的测试电池(特定于攀岩的运动技能)。实验组进行了20次频闪训练,发生在一个日历年,作为与首席教练一起进行的攀岩时间表的额外课程。频闪会议是每周一次,取决于大环的周期化(预备,竞争性,和过渡期)。在1年的大周期中,对照组和实验组在训练的强度和数量方面进行了相似的攀岩训练。
■Strobe训练提高了视线性能(d=0.38)和红点性能(d=0.36)。Strobe训练改善了大多数认知技能[所有空间技能(对于心理图像转换,d=1.27;对于空间方向,d=1.14;对于图像生成,d=1.59)和简单的反应时间(d=0.99)]。Strobe训练提高了所有运动认知技能(视觉记忆d=0.16;视觉记忆错误d=1.96;视觉处理速度d=1.39;视觉处理错误d=1.94;认知敏捷性d=1.30)。Strobe训练改善了许多特定于攀爬的参数(柔韧性和上身力量)(柔韧性参数d=0.44和d=0.47;上身力量参数d=0.50至0.73)。
■Strobe训练是一种有效的提高性能的训练方法,应在更有经验的登山者身上使用。它更多地作用于空间技能,而不是反应能力,开发视觉-运动协调系统。strobe训练对16岁以下的登山者影响更大,与成年人相比,青少年运动员更依赖视觉输入。爬坡特定变量的改善是由于每周进行额外的爬坡训练。Strobe训练对训练的认知部分的作用比对攀爬训练的运动部分的作用更大。
UNASSIGNED: Strobe training is a form of visual training where the athlete has to practice during intermittently dark conditions. Strobe training improves visual, perceptual, and cognitive skills, which will enhance athletic performance. Strobe training can influence multiple training components in climbing: psychological, tactical, physical, and technical training.
UNASSIGNED: The study was conducted on 17 elite climbers from Romania (10 male and 7 female), representing the entire National Youth Climbing Team. The research group was divided into a control group (n = 8) and an experimental group (n = 9). The used instruments were the Cognitrom battery (for cognitive skills, such as spatial skills and reactivity), the Witty SEM system (for motor-cognitive skills, such as cognitive agility, visual processing speed, and visual memory), and the International Rock Climbing Research Association (IRCRA) performance-related test battery for climbers (climbing-specific motor skills). The experimental group had 20 strobe training sessions, which took place during one calendar year, as an additional session to their climbing schedule done with their principal trainer. The strobe session was once a week, depending on the periodization of the macrocycle (preparatory, competitional, and transition periods). The control group and the experimental group had similar climbing training sessions during the 1-year macrocycle in terms of intensity and volume of their training.
UNASSIGNED: Strobe training improved on-sight performance (d = 0.38) and red-point performance (d = 0.36). Strobe training improved the majority of cognitive skills [all spatial skills (d = 1.27 for mental image transformation; d = 1.14 for spatial orientation; d = 1.59 for image generation) and simple reaction time (d = 0.99)]. Strobe training improved all motor-cognitive skills (d = 0.16 for visual memory; d = 1.96 for visual memory errors; d = 1.39 for visual processing speed; d = 1.94 for visual processing errors; d = 1.30 for cognitive agility). Strobe training improved many climbing-specific parameters (flexibility and upper body strength) (d = 0.44 and d = 0.47 for flexibility parameters; d = 0.50 to 0.73 for upper body strength parameters).
UNASSIGNED: Strobe training is an effective training method for enhancing performance that should be used on more experienced climbers. It acts more on spatial skills, rather than on reactivity skills, developing the visual-motor coordination system. Strobe training has greater effects on climbers aged below 16 years, as youth athletes rely more on visual input compared to adults. The improvement in climbing-specific variables was due to the additional climbing session done weekly. Strobe training acts more on the cognitive component of training than on the motor component of training in climbing.