The textile industry is a pillar of the manufacturing sector worldwide, but it still represents a significantly polluting production sector since it is energy-, water- and natural resource-intensive. Herein, waste wool that did not meet the technical requirements to be used for yarns and fabrics was recovered first to prepare materials for wastewater remediation, specifically for phosphate removal. The wool underwent an alkaline treatment, eventually saturated with FeCl3 and then left at room temperature or thermally treated to induce crosslinking/stabilisation, obtaining adsorbent panels. The main characterisation findings concerned the impact of alkaline treatment on morphology and structure; additionally, the samples with iron displayed a behaviour attributable to a crosslinking effect operated by Fe3+. Batch experiments showed that only samples with iron were efficient in phosphate adsorption, with a high removal percentage obtained in a wide pH range. Adsorption isotherms and kinetics were investigated, suggesting a complex system of interactions. Moreover, during the alkaline treatment necessary to prepare such wool-derived adsorbent panels, a significant amount of wool hydrolysates left in the solution was produced. These substances, in view of zero-waste procedures, were isolated and re-employed as dyeing auxiliaries. Preliminary results demonstrated that the wool hydrolysates enabled the dyeing of cotton with natural dyes, which is generally a tricky process.

This study investigates the optimization of fabric dyeing using natural dyes extracted from Clitoria ternatea, Cudrania javanensis, and Hibiscus sabdarifa by enhancing the mordanting process with citric acid. The principle of adding citric acid is as a crosslinker agent between cotton fabric and dye through an esterification reaction. A central composite design (CCD) of the response surface methodology (RSM) is employed to optimize parameters. Three mordanting variations and dyeing parameters, such as temperature and time, are considered. Results indicate that pre-mordanting yields superior outcomes, with optimal temperature and time at 65 °C and 82 min, respectively. Cotton fabric dyed with Cudrania javanensis and citric acid exhibits the highest color durability. This study successfully demonstrates the effectiveness of pre-mordanting, meta-mordanting, and post-mordanting methods with optimized conditions for achieving optimal coloring outcomes, particularly highlighting the efficacy of citric acid as a crosslinking agent.

Green products such as plant tints are becoming more and more well-known worldwide due to their superior biological and ayurvedic properties. In this work, colorant from Amba Haldi (Curcuma aromatica) was isolated using microwave (MW), and bio-mordants were added to produce colorfast shades. Response surface methodology was used to develop a central composite design (CCD), which maximizes coloring variables statistically. The findings from 32 series of experiments show that excellent color depth (K/S = 12.595) was established onto MW-treated silk fabric (RS = 4 min) by employing 65 mL of radiated aqueous extract (RE = 4 min) of 5 pH cutting-edge the existence of 1.5 g/100 mL used sodium chloride at 75 °C for 45 min. It was discovered that acacia (keekar) extract (1%), pomegranate extract (2%), and pistachio extract (1.5%) were present before coloring by the use of bio-mordants. On the other hand, upon dyeing, acacia extract (1.5%), pomegranate extract (1.5%), and pistachio extract (2%) have all shown extremely strong colorfast colors. Comparatively, before dyeing, salts of Al3+ (1.5%), Fe2+ (2%), and TA (1.5%) gave good results; after dyeing, salts of Al3+ (1%) and Fe2+ (1.5%) and TA (2%) gave good results. When applied to silk fabric, MW radiation has increased the production of dyes recovered from rhizomes. Additionally, the right amount of chemical and biological mordants have been added, resulting in color fastness ratings ranging from outstanding to good. Therefore, the natural color extracted from Amba Haldi can be a sustainable option for the dyeing of silk fabric in the textile dyeing and finishing industries.

Eco-friendly dyeing of jute packaging fabrics was evaluated using aqueous extraction of factory tea (Camellia sinensis) wastes. Jute and factory tea wastes are available in Bangladesh and jute bags are used for packaging of various exportable agricultural commodities. The extract of factory tea waste (FTW) is dark coffee colored and it was characterized by attenuated total reflection-fourier transform infrared (ATR-FTIR) and microbial analysis. Nontoxic, non-allergic and eco-friendly natural dyeing process of jute packaging fabrics using extract of FTW were developed and optimized. Metal mordants 10 % on the weight of fabric was used to get the fastness properties of dyed jute fabric. The methods of application of mordants were pre-mordanting, simultaneous or meta-mordanting and post-mordanting. The color fastness and tensile properties were measured for all jute packaging fabrics and it is found that the dyed jute packaging fabrics showed a slight decrease in tensile breaking force (N) than undyed jute packaging fabric. The highest color fastness obtained with the meta mordanting method with ferrous sulfate mordant in a shade of dark coffee. The results of the color fastness for light and washing showed an excellent value of grade 4-5.

This research investigates the viability of using Syzygium aromaticum (clove) as a natural dye for wool yarn through the application of microwave treatment and optimization using central composite design (CCD). As concerns grow over the environmental impact of synthetic dyes and their detrimental disposal in water bodies, the search for eco-friendly alternatives becomes imperative to revolutionize the textile industry. Microwave-assisted extraction of the colorant from clove powder is explored as an efficient and sustainable method, minimizing solvent usage and energy consumption compared to conventional techniques. To enhance colorfastness properties while eliminating the need for toxic mordants, green alternatives such as Al, Fe, and tannic acid, combined with plant phenolics from red sumac, pomegranate rind, and weld, are employed. According to the analysis of CCD, the higher color strength value 18.1653 was achieved using pH = 3, time = 50 min, temperature = 70 °C, and salt concentration = 1.5 g/100 mL. The optimized dyeing conditions also showed a maximum level of colorfastness properties of 5 for light, 5 for wash, 5 for dry rubbing, and 4 for wet rubbing. The findings from Fourier-transform infrared spectroscopy and scanning electron microscopy analyses provide valuable insights into the chemical and morphological changes induced by microwave treatment and dyeing with clove extract. The results affirm the presence of eugenol as a potential active molecule responsible for the captivating color of clove flower buds, validating its suitability as a natural dye source for wool. This study highlights the promising potential of microwave-assisted extraction and plant-based biomolecules as innovative and environmentally friendly approaches in natural dyeing, paving the way for a more sustainable future in the textile industry. Embracing these eco-friendly practices allows the textile sector to reduce its ecological footprint and contribute to a cleaner and greener environment. Further research and implementation of these techniques can foster a more harmonious coexistence with nature, ensuring a healthier ecosystem for all.

The dyeing and finishing step represents a clear hotspot in the textile supply chain as the wet processing stages require significant amounts of water, energy, and chemicals. In order to tackle environmental issues, natural dyes are gaining attention from researchers as more sustainable alternatives to synthetic ones. This review discusses the topic of natural dyes, providing a description of their main features and differences compared to synthetic dyes, and encompasses a summary of recent research in the field of natural dyes with specific reference to the following areas of sustainable innovation: extraction techniques, the preparation of substrates, the mordanting process, and the dyeing process. The literature review showed that promising new technologies and techniques have been successfully employed to improve the performance and sustainability of natural dyeing processes, but several limitations such as the poor fastness properties of natural dyes, their low affinity with textiles substrates, difficulties in the reproducibility of shades, as well as other factors such as cost-effectiveness considerations, still prevent industry from adopting natural dyes on a larger scale and will require further research in order to expand their use beyond niche applications.

Considering the growing importance of natural colorants and sustainable products, the research on application of natural dyes has been focused on new color resources, identification, and standardization of natural dyes. Hence, the extraction of natural colorants available in Ziziphus bark was performed by ultrasound technique and its application on the wool yarn to produce the antioxidant and antibacterial fibers. The optimal conditions for the extraction process were as follows: ethanol/water (1/2 v/v) as solvent, concentration of Ziziphus dye 14 g/L, pH 9, temperature 50 °C, time 30 min, and L.R ratio 50:1. Moreover, the effect of important variables for application of Ziziphus dye on the wool yarn was investigated and optimized temperature 100 °C, concentration of Ziziphus dye 50% o.w.f., time for dyeing 60 min and pH 8, and L.R 30:1. The reduction values of Gram-negative and Gram-positive bacteria on dyed samples at optimized condition were 85% and 76%, respectively. Moreover, the antioxidant property of dyed sample was 78%. The color variations on the wool yarn were produced with diverse metal mordants, and color fastness properties were measured. Ziziphus dye not only can be used as an origin for a natural dye, but also provided the antibacterial and antioxidant agent on the wool yarn, which can be a step towards the fabrication of green products.

During current times, the use of bio-colorants attained public acceptance as a sustainable alternative to synthetic ones which in turn reduced the environmental contamination. The present study focused on the green, safe, and clean technology for the resurgence of natural colorant from cocklebur (Xanthium strumarium L.) leaves and their application to cotton fabric. Natural colorants were extracted by employing an eco-friendly microwave-assisted extraction process using an aqueous and alkaline medium. Dyeing of cotton fabric was carried out using irradiated and unirradiated cotton fabric with irradiated and unirradiated natural dyes of cocklebur leaves. The results of extraction experiments revealed that 4 min microwave-assisted alkaline extract exhibited significantly outstanding color strength onto microwave-treated cotton fabric compared to aqueous one. Further to investigate the optimum dyeing conditions for cotton fabric, various dyeing variables such as dyeing time, dyeing temperature, dye concentration, and exhausting agent were monitored and found a superior result using a dye concentration of 45 ml, for dyeing cotton fabric at 75 °C for 50 min in the presence of 4 g/100 ml of table salt. For improvement in color strength and color fastness properties, the effects of various bio-mordants, such as eucalyptus bark, acacia bark, turmeric rhizome, and onion shells, and chemical mordants (aluminum and copper) on dyed cotton fabric were also evaluated. It was also observed that cotton fabric dyed with alkaline extract of cocklebur leaves using bio-mordants as pre-mordants (4% acacia, 4% eucalyptus, 2% onion) and post-mordants (3% onion, 3% eucalyptus, 4% acacia) exhibited the highest color strength and various hues with acceptable colorfastness properties against light, washing, and rubbing in comparison to chemical mordants. The ISO standard for fastness also revealed that bio-mordanting has enhanced the rating from good to excellent in comparison to chemical mordants. The results provide ample scope for the extraction of yellow natural dye from the cocklebur leaves for eco-friendly coloration of fabrics using bio-mordants.

Assembled structures of dyes have great influence on their coloring function. For example, metal ions added in the dyeing process are known to prevent fading of color. Thus, we have investigated the influence of an addition of copper(II) ion on the surface structure of alkyl-derivatized indigo. Scanning tunneling microscope (STM) analysis revealed that the copper(II) complexes of indigo formed orderly lamellar structures on a HOPG substrate. These lamellar structures of the complexes are found to be more stable than those of alkyl-derivatized indigos alone. Furthermore, 2D chirality was observed.

Brassica oleracea L. var. capitata f. rubra (Red Cabbage) dye is composed mainly of natural pigment called anthocyanins used as a natural colourant. Wool and silk fibres were dyed with the aqueous extract obtained from red cabbage. The dyeing process was investigated and the combined effects of dyeing conditions on the colour yield parameter (K/S) were studied. Resulted fastness to wash, rubbing and light of the dyed fabrics were evaluated. Chemical Oxygen Demand (COD) and Biological Oxygen Demand (BOD5) of the residual effluent were measured. Best dyeing conditions were found to be: 50 g/100 mL, pH 2, 60 min and 100 °C, respectively, for the red cabbage weight, pH, dyeing duration and temperature. Good fastnesses properties were found in both cases: for wool and silk fabrics. It was found also that the calculated biodegradability ratio (COD/BOD5) of the residual bath of dyeing wool and silk with red cabbage extract are lower than 1.5 which means that these baths are biodegradable.