The present study aims to investigate the current trends in replacing conventional preservatives with multifunctional ingredients with antimicrobial properties for preservation of cosmetics for infants or sensitive population, to decrease their potential for contact dermatitis. We first reviewed the labels of cosmetics purchased from the Chinese market for conventional preservatives and multifunctional ingredients with antimicrobial properties, of which the actual contents were further quantified by chromatographic methods. We identified 7 traditional preservatives (phenoxyethanol, benzoic acid (salts), methylparaben, benzyl alcohol, sorbic acid (salts), propylparaben, and methylisothiazolinone), and 11 alternative ingredients with antimicrobial activities (ethylhexylglycerin, butylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, propylene glycol, 1,2-hexanediol, p-anisic acid, hydroxyacetophenone, pentylene glycol, decylene glycol, caprylhydroxamic acid, and aminomethyl propanol) in descending order of prevalence. The contents of all identified preservatives and ingredients were either below regulatory limits or in the range that is generally regarded to be safe. Further challenge with microorganisms indicated irrespective of the composition of preservation systems, product preservation could be compromised under test conditions. We conclude that multifunctional ingredients with antimicrobial properties in cosmetics have the potential to completely replace or significantly reduce the use of traditional preservatives while retaining comparative preservative efficacy. Future attentions may need to be shifted to the safety of those multifunctional ingredients with antimicrobial properties.

Per and polyfluoroalkyl substances (PFAS) are toxicologically concerning because of their potential to bioaccumulate and their persistence in the environment and the human body. We determined PFAS levels in cosmetic and personal care products and assessed their health risks. We investigated the trends in concentrations and types of PFAS contaminants in cosmetic and personal care products before and after perfluorooctane sulfonate (PFOS) and perfluorooctanoic acid (PFOA) were added to the list of persistent organic pollutants. The total PFAS concentration ranged from 1.98 to 706.75 ng g-1. The hazard quotients (HQs) for PFOA, PFOS and perfluorobutanesulfonic acid (PFBS) were lower than 1, indicating no appreciable risk to consumers. Assuming the simultaneous use of all product types and the worst-case scenario for calculations, perfluoroalkyl carboxylic acids and perfluoroalkane sulfonic acids (PFSAs) also had hazard indices lower than 1. We found that adverse effects are unlikely to occur when each type of cosmetic is used separately, or even when all product types are used together. Nevertheless, the persistence and bioaccumulation characteristics of additional PFAS present in cosmetics continue to be a cause for concern. Further research is necessary to investigate the long-term impacts of using such cosmetics and the associated risks to human health.

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Freesia refracta (FR), a perennial flower of the Iris family (Iridaceae), is widely used in cosmetics despite limited scientific evidence of its skin benefits and chemical composition, particularly of FR callus extract (FCE). This study identified biologically active compounds in FCE and assessed their skin benefits, focusing on anti-aging. FR calli were cultured, extracted with water at 40 °C, and analyzed using Centrifugal Partition Chromatography (CPC), Nuclear Magnetic Resonance (NMR), and HCA, revealing key compounds, namely nicotinamide and pyroglutamic acid. FCE significantly increased collagen I production by 52% in normal and aged fibroblasts and enhanced fibroblast-collagen interaction by 37%. An in vivo study of 43 female volunteers demonstrated an 11.1% reduction in skin roughness and a 2.3-fold increase in collagen density after 28 days of cream application containing 3% FCE. Additionally, the preservation tests of cosmetics containing FCE confirmed their stability over 12 weeks. These results suggest that FCE offers substantial anti-aging benefits by enhancing collagen production and fibroblast-collagen interactions. These findings highlighted the potential of FCE in cosmetic applications, providing significant improvements in skin smoothness and overall appearance. This study fills a gap in the scientific literature regarding the skin benefits and chemical composition of FR callus extract, supporting its use in the development of effective cosmeceuticals.

The study evaluated the preservative potential of Lafoensia replicata Pohl. leaf extracts in cosmetics, highlighting their antioxidant, antimicrobial, and in vitro cytotoxic activities for ethanolic extract prepared by the maceration and tincture method. Total phenol content showed a higher phenol concentration in ethanolic extract and tinctures, and by LC-MS/MS-ESI-QTOF analysis, flavonoids, hydrolyzed tannins, and phenolic acids were identified. The ethanolic extract and tincture showed high antimicrobial activity against Staphylococcus aureus, Pseudomonas aeruginosa, and Candida albicans (MIC < 50 µg mL-1), high antioxidant activity (EC50 < 50 µg mL-1 in the DPPH method, and results > 450 µmol trolox equivalent in the ABTS and FRAP method), and low cytotoxicity in human keratinocytes (IC50 > 350 µg mL-1). The results suggest these extracts could be an alternative to synthetic preservatives in the cosmetic industry.

Majority customers of cosmetics are female. Would this imply a high proportion of inventors of cosmetics technology is female? Would the inventor\'s gender be related to the characteristics and quality of corresponding patent? This study tries to identify manifestation of gender equity in cosmetics technology in terms of patent application and grant, technical characteristics, and its performance. We apply topic modeling, zero-inflated Poisson regression, and survival analysis to patents related to cosmetics that were applied to the United States Patent and Trademark Office from 1970 to 2016. The results show that women\'s participation in cosmetic inventions is becoming active and has experienced many changes in technical characteristics, but in terms of performance, it is still sluggish. This study is expected to contribute to deepening our understanding about gender issues in technology development.

The term natural oil refers to a fixed (non-volatile) oil of animal or plant origin. These types of oils - in contrast to essential (volatile) oils, which are obtained by steam distillation methods of plant matter - are typically obtained from plant seeds and nuts by a mechanical pressing technique or solvent extraction. The natural movement in cosmetics of the 21st century has led to renewed interest in formulating skin care products with botanical ingredients. In this article, we discuss the benefits and caveats of natural oil treatments as moisturizing agents (as occlusives and emollients) as well as their utility in wound healing and treatment of skin diseases. We also address the paradoxical behaviour of natural oils in relation to barrier function and highlight the current state of our knowledge with respect to the use of natural oils in neonatal skin care. Finally, we provide a comparison of natural oils to conventional petroleum-based oils.
Le terme huile naturelle fait référence à une huile fixe (non volatile) d\'origine animale ou végétale. Ces types d\'huiles, contrairement aux huiles essentielles (volatiles) qui sont obtenues par des méthodes de distillation à la vapeur de matières végétales, sont généralement obtenues à partir de graines et de noix de plantes par une technique de pressage mécanique ou d\'extraction par solvant. Le mouvement naturel des cosmétiques du XXI siècle a suscité un regain d\'intérêt pour la formulation de produits de soins pour la peau à base d\'ingrédients botaniques. Dans cet article, nous examinons les avantages et les mises en garde des traitements à base d\'huiles naturelles en tant qu\'agents hydratants (comme occlusifs et émollients), ainsi que leur utilité dans la cicatrisation des plaies et le traitement des maladies de la peau. Nous abordons également le comportement paradoxal des huiles naturelles par rapport à la fonction barrière et mettons en évidence l\'état actuel de nos connaissances en ce qui concerne l\'utilisation des huiles naturelles dans les soins de la peau néonatale. Enfin, nous comparons les huiles naturelles aux huiles conventionnelles à base de pétrole.

BACKGROUND: Skin \"yellowness\" is an abstract and subjective term, without a definitive measurement protocol. Objectives were to analyze Chinese women\'s self-perception of skin yellowness and associated parameters and identify objective clinical measurements that correlate with these perceptions.
METHODS: Following focus group discussions, criteria for skin yellowness were defined, and validated by volunteer rankings of facial images. A typology study of 185 women was performed. Participants were grouped into yellow (Color Uniformity, Brightness and Transparency (CUBT) yellow scale grade > 3, chromameter b* value > 16) and non-yellow (CUBT yellow scale grade < 2, b* value < 14) groups. Participants self-evaluated their skin on yellowness, transparency, skin uniformity, dullness, radiance, oiliness, and texture. Expert assessments were performed to grade sebaceous pores, ocular area pigmentation, pigmentary spots and CUBT scores. Instrumental analysis of the skin was employed using corneometer, sebumeter, mexameter chromameter, and AGE reader.
RESULTS: Women in the yellow group self-evaluated their skin as significantly duller, less uniform, and less radiant than women in the non-yellow group (P ≤ 0.05). Higher levels of ocular area pigmentation and lower facial skin uniformity and brightness (P < 0.001) were observed in women with yellow skin. CUBT expert grading showed lower pink skin color, but significantly higher beige, yellow, and olive pigmentation (P ≤ 0.05) in women in the yellow skin group. Melanin and b* values were significantly higher in women with yellow skin while L value was significantly lower.
CONCLUSIONS: Self-perceived skin yellowness in Chinese women correlates to chromameter and mexameter measurements, as well as expert evaluation of ocular pigmentation and CUBT parameters.

Personal care products (PCPs) are a class of emerging pollutants that have attracted public concern owing to their harmful effects on humans and the environment. Biomonitoring data is valuable for insight the levels of PCPs in the human body and can be crucial for identifying potential health hazards. To gain a better understanding of timely exposure profiles and health risk of reproductive-age population to PCPs, we determined six parabens, six benzophenone-type ultraviolet filters, and three disinfectants in 256 urine samples collected from young adults aged 18-44 years in Beijing, China. The urinary levels of benzophenone-3 (BP-3) and 4-hydroxybenzophenone (4-OHBP) were significantly higher in summer compared to winter, suggesting these compounds have different seasonal usage patterns. Moreover, the total concentration of 15 PCPs in female was 430 ng/mL, approximately two times higher than that in male. P‑chloro-m-xylenol (PCMX), as a new type of antibacterial agent, has the greatest level among all target analytes, indicating the increasingly use of this antibacterial alternative recently. Five potential influencing factors that lead to the elevated exposure level of PCPs were identified. Over 19% of the target population had a high hazard index value (greater than 1) which was attributed to exposure to propyl paraben (PrP), benzophenone-1 (BP-1), BP-3 and PCMX, indicating that PCPs may pose a relatively high exposure risk at environmental levels that should be a cause for concern.

BACKGROUND: Skincare and makeup \"pilling\" is an unsightly and undesirable phenomenon whereby skincare such as moisturizers or foundation ball up to form flakes on the skin. To date, the causes of skincare product pilling have not been studied. This study aimed to examine the relationship between skin physiology and pilling potential of sunscreen and foundation (the two products most reported by consumers to cause pilling). This study also examined the effects of product application methods on pilling.
METHODS: 528 female volunteers from Guangzhou, China, aged between 20 and 49 years, underwent various clinical skin assessments, followed by three steps of product layering. Pilling was assessed after each product application step.
RESULTS: 217 volunteers (41%) experienced pilling. The majority of pilling (n = 655 events) occurred following sunscreen application, while only a few pilling events (n = 35) occurred with foundation. Foundation improved pilling caused by sunscreen in 98.9% of cases. Volunteers experiencing pilling with both sunscreen and foundation had significantly lower facial skin hydration and oiliness, higher pH, and smoother skin texture (P < 0.05). Two application methods, rubbing of products in circular and linear motions, yielded the highest numbers of pilling events.
CONCLUSIONS: This study has provided the first insights into the causes of pilling. Sunscreen is a promoter of pilling, while foundation may resolve sunscreen-induced pilling in many cases. Skin physiology, particularly drier, smoother skin with higher pH, and product application methods are likely contributing factors to this undesirable phenomenon.