The study aimed to create a low loading, high retention, easier to apply O/W mometasone furoate (MF) cream using a chemical enhancer (CE) approach to provide more options for patients with atopic dermatitis (AD) and to investigate molecular mechanisms of its increased release and retention. A Box-Behnken design determined the optimal formulation based on stability and in vitro skin retention. Evaluations included appearance, rheological properties, irritation, in vivo tissue distribution and pharmacodynamics. Molecular mechanisms of enhanced release were studied using high-speed centrifugation, molecular dynamics and rheology. The interaction between the CE, MF and skin was studied by tape stripping, CLSM, ATR-FTIR and SAXS. The formulation was optimized to contain 0.05% MF and used 10% polyglyceryl-3 oleate (POCC) as the CE. There was no significant difference from Elocon® cream in in vivo retention and pharmacodynamics but increased in vivo retention by 3.14-fold and in vitro release by 1.77-fold compared to the basic formulation. POCC reduced oil phase cohesive energy density, enhancing drug mobility and release. It disrupted skin lipid phases, aiding drug entry and formed hydrogen bonds, prolonging retention. This study highlights POCC as a CE in the cream, offering insights for semi-solid formulation development.

Semisolid dosage forms are recommended for the dermal care of babies and children. If we look at the ingredients of these preparations, there are still many cases in which there are substances (occlusive agents, preservatives) that no longer meet certain requirements of the modern age, so it is timely to replace them with other substances. The aim of this work was to formulate a science-based formulation with new components that keep or improve its moisturizing properties, rheological parameters, and microbiological stability. Occlusive oils, like white petrolatum and liquid paraffin and the preservative parabens are traditional ingredients in oil in water creams, were replaced with white beeswax, sunflower oil, and phenoxyethanol, respectively. Cocoa butter, urea, and glycerol were added to improve long-lasting hydration and support the barrier function of the reformulated creams. The rheological properties of the formulations were determined. The effects of the preparations on skin hydration and on the barrier function of the skin were tested. Furthermore, microbiological stability was investigated. The result of the reformulation was an o/w cream that provided a good longer-lasting hydration effect; supported the barrier function of the baby skin without occlusion; and had adequate consistency, easy spreading, a pleasant skin feeling, proper pH, and good microbiological stability.

OBJECTIVE: The main aims of the present study were to formulate an anti-age cream based on vegetal ingredients and ferulic acid and to evaluate the physical characteristics and the efficacy of the cream.
METHODS: The active ingredients were Centella asiatica oil, Spilanthes acmella oil, Zingiber officinale extract and ferulic acid. Formulation 1 (F1) was prepared using glyceryl stearate and Ceteareth-25® as emulsifiers and Formulation 2 (F2) using glyceryl stearate and potassium cetyl phosphate, all other ingredients remaining the same. The physical characterization of the creams was performed and the following parameters were analyzed: viscosity, oil droplet size, polydispersity index; also, texture analysis was performed. The anti-aging effect of the F2 was evaluated by assessing the cutaneous density before and after cream application using DUB-cutis® scanner.
RESULTS: The mean diameter of oil drops was 10.26±4.72 mm (F1) and 22.72±7.93 mm (F2) and the polydispersity index was 35.4% and 45.7%, respectively. The mean values for consistency were 594.7±10.3 g (F1) and 300.5±14.5 g (F2), the average values for adhesion were 15.61±0.8 mJ (F1) and 22.25±4.3 mJ (F2), for firmness were 51.2±0.8 g (F1) and 30.3±4.3 g (F2) and the spreadability had values between 72.63 mm2 (F1) and 73.3 mm2 (F2). In vivo study revealed that the mean values of the cutaneous density increased from 9.21±1.39 % to 12.50±1.44 % after 8 weeks of cream application. The herbal ingredients incorporated in the O/W cream base for the antioxidant activity and anti-wrinkle effect, induced changes of the cutaneous density, an important parameter which quantifies the regeneration process of the skin.
CONCLUSIONS: An anti-age cream containing herbal active ingredients and ferulic acid with appropriate physical characteristics was obtained. In vivo study of clinical efficacy revealed a positive effect on skin density, which increased after 8 weeks of cream application.