背景:运动攀岩在普通人群和运动员中都变得非常流行。关于基于证据的运动特定表现评估,目前尚无共识;因此,本系统综述旨在通过比较不同水平的攀岩运动员,分析攀岩运动表现的决定因素和评价方法。
方法:PubMed,Scopus,和WebofScience被搜索到2022年12月20日。在连续表现水平的登山者组中,提供与不同功能结果相关的自我报告的攀爬能力的研究是合格的。
结果:最终纳入了74项研究。已经提出了各种方法来评估运动攀爬性能的决定因素。与一般功能测试相比,特定于攀岩的评估能够区分不同级别的攀岩者。对于攀爬特定的心肺耐力和肌肉力量,测试有效性很高,-耐力,和-功率;同样,除心肺耐力外,可靠性良好。特定于攀岩的灵活性评估具有较高的可靠性,但具有中等的效度,而平衡显示低有效性。关于人体测量特征,发现了相当多的相互矛盾的证据。
结论:本分析确定了心肺耐力和肌肉力量,-耐力,和-力量是运动攀岩性能的决定因素。相比之下,balance,灵活性,人体测量特征似乎更少。这篇综述还提出了一种基于证据的功能性运动攀爬测试电池,用于评估性能决定因素,其中包括已被确定为有效的测试,可靠,并且可行。而运动员和教练员应依靠循证和标准化的评价方法,研究人员可以设计特定的大规模试验,作为提供额外的资源,同质,和可比数据,以提高这一流行体育学科的科学证据和专业水平。
BACKGROUND: Sport climbing is becoming incredibly popular both in the general population and among athletes. No consensus exists regarding evidence-based sport-specific performance evaluation; therefore, this systematic review is aimed at analyzing determinants of sport climbing performance and evaluation methods by comparing climbers of different levels.
METHODS: PubMed, Scopus, and Web of Science were searched up to December 20, 2022. Studies providing the self-reported climbing ability associated with different functional outcomes in groups of climbers of contiguous performance levels were eligible.
RESULTS: 74 studies were finally included. Various methods have been proposed to evaluate determinants of sport climbing performance. Climbing-specific assessments were able to discriminate climbers of different levels when compared to general functional tests. Test validity resulted high for climbing-specific cardiorespiratory
endurance as well as muscular-strength, -
endurance, and -power; similarly, reliability was good except for cardiorespiratory
endurance. Climbing-specific flexibility assessment resulted in high reliability but moderate validity, whereas balance showed low validity. Considerable conflicting evidence was found regarding anthropometric characteristics.
CONCLUSIONS: The present analysis identified cardiorespiratory
endurance as well as muscular-strength, -
endurance, and -power as determinants of sport climbing performance. In contrast, balance, flexibility, and anthropometric characteristics seem to count less. This review also proposes an evidence-based Functional Sport Climbing test battery for assessing performance determinants, which includes tests that have been identified to be valid, reliable, and feasible. While athletes and coaches should rely on evidence-based and standardized evaluation methods, researchers may design specific large-scale trials as a resource for providing additional, homogenous, and comparable data to improve scientific evidence and professionalism in this popular sport discipline.