BACKGROUND: Glutathione has become a potential skin-lightening ingredient after the discovery of its anti-melanogenic properties. Various mechanisms of action have been considered to explain this property, one of them being the skewing of the melanin synthesis pathway toward the production of lighter pheomelanin instead of darker eumelanin, consequently producing a lightening effect.
OBJECTIVE: To evaluate the skin lightening and anti-dark spot effects of oral supplementation with L-Cystine associated with L-Glutathione as compared to placebo and benchmark.
METHODS: Effects of this L-Cystine-L-Glutathione oral combination were investigated in a 12-week randomized, double-blind, parallel-group, benchmark- and placebo-controlled trial involving 124 Asian female subjects. Women were randomly allocated into 4 equal groups (500 mg L-Cystine and 250 mg L-Glutathione, 250 mg reduced L-Glutathione, 500 mg L-Cystine, or a placebo, daily). Skin color was measured at baseline, after 6 and 12 weeks by spectrophotometry. Size and color of facial dark spots were determined from digital photographs.
RESULTS: A significant skin lightening was observed after 12 weeks of oral supplementation with L-Cystine associated with L-Glutathione. This combination also induced a significant reduction in the size of facial dark spots after 6 and 12 weeks. It is noteworthy that the observed effects were not only significantly better than those obtained with placebo, but also with L-Cystine alone or L-Glutathione alone.
CONCLUSIONS: The daily oral administration of 500 mg L-Cystine and 250 mg L-Glutathione during 12 weeks was a safe treatment to effectively lighten the skin and reduce the size of facial dark spots of Asian women.

Melanin in the skin can be divided into eumelanin and pheomelanin subtypes. Simultaneous quantification of these subtypes could clarify their relation to skin type and skin cancer development. We describe a novel, sensitive liquid chromatography-tandem mass spectrometry method to quantify two eumelanin markers, pyrrole-2,3,5-tricarboxylic acid (PTCA) and pyrrole-2,3-dicarboxylic acid (PDCA), and two pheomelanin markers, thiazole-4,5-dicarboxylic acid (TDCA) and thiazole-2,4,5 tricarboxylic acid (TTCA), performed in a single run using the same biopsy. Volunteers with either Fitzpatrick skin type (FST) I/II or III/IV (n = 30) each provided a 4-mm punch biopsy from the buttock. Upon analysis, the FST I + II group had significantly less of all four melanin biomarkers (PTCA, 0.75 ng/mm2 ; PDCA, 0.08 ng/mm2 ; TTCA, 0.24 ng/mm2 ; and TDCA, 0.10 ng/mm2 ) versus the FST III + IV group (PTCA, 4.89 ng/mm2 ; PDCA, 0.22 ng/mm2 ; TTCA, 2.61 ng/mm2 ; and TDCA, 0.72 ng/mm2 ), p ≤ 0.003. We find that this new LC-MS/MS method is sensitive enough to quantify eumelanin and pheomelanin markers even in the lightest skin types.

Melanin is the most common pigment in animal integuments including bird plumage. It has been shown that several trace elements may play roles in the production and signaling function of melanin-colored plumage. We investigated coloration and content of various metal elements in the rectrices of two insectivorous passerines, Common Redstarts (Phoenicurus phoenicurus) and Blackcaps (Sylvia atricapilla), which have eumelanin- and pheomelanin-based coloration, respectively. We hypothesized that 1) the two species would differ in concentrations of metals important in melanin synthesis (Ca, Fe, Cu, Zn), 2) differences in metal concentration levels would be related to feather coloration. Our study confirmed the first prediction and provides the first evidence that selected elements may play a greater role in pheomelanin than in eumelanin synthesis. Concentrations of three elements considered as important in melanin synthesis (Ca, Fe, Zn) were 52% to 93% higher in rusty colored Common Redstart feathers compared to the dark gray Blackcap feathers. However, element concentrations were not correlated with feather coloration or sex in either species. Our study suggests that, of the two melanin forms, pheomelanin synthesis may bear higher costs associated with the acquisition of specific elements or limited elements may create trade-offs between ornamentation and other physiological functions. Our findings warrant further investigations designed to better understand the roles of macro- and microelements in the synthesis of both forms of melanin.