PDF(Pubmed)
Abstract：
Recent research has elucidated the effects of strength training on climbing performance. Although local muscular endurance training of the upper-limbs and finger flexors is frequently suggested, there is currently insufficient evidence to support its impact on climbing performance and climbing-specific strength. Furthermore, there is no evidence on climbers\' experiences related to training and the likelihood of consistent engagement. In addition, the effects of more climbing-specific strength training on walls with built in lights and adjustable angles have yet to be examined. The low percentage of studies involving female subjects, additionally, demonstrates a significant gap in understanding the specific effects of strength training on women in the context of climbing. The aim of this study was thus to assess the effects of five-week on-, and off-the-wall climbing training on climbing performance, climbing-specific strength, and training experience. Thirty-one female lower-grade to advanced climbers were randomly assigned to either a control group, an off-the-wall training or an on-the-wall training group. Apart from the training regimen, all groups followed their usual climbing and bouldering routine. Subjects trained at least twice a week. Bouldering performance, and maximum strength and muscular endurance of the finger flexors and upper-limbs were assessed before and after the intervention. Furthermore, rate of perceived exertion and discomfort, exercise enjoyment, and exercise pleasure were assessed during the first and last training session, as well as after two and a half weeks of training. Intrinsic training motivation was assessed after the last training session. The results showed trends towards positive effects of off-the-wall training on climbing-specific strength, and on-the-wall training on climbing technique. Furthermore, our finding revealed high exercise enjoyment and intrinsic training motivation for both on- and off-the-wall training. Hence, lower-grade to advanced female climbers should rely on personal training preferences.
摘要：
最近的研究阐明了力量训练对攀岩性能的影响。尽管经常建议进行上肢和手指屈肌的局部肌肉耐力训练，目前没有足够的证据支持其对攀岩性能和攀岩强度的影响。此外，没有证据表明登山者的经历与训练和持续参与的可能性有关。此外,在具有内置灯光和可调角度的墙壁上进行更多的攀爬特定力量训练的效果尚未得到检验。涉及女性受试者的研究比例较低，此外，在理解攀岩背景下力量训练对女性的具体影响方面存在显著差距。因此，这项研究的目的是评估五周对-以及攀岩表演的离墙攀岩训练，攀爬特定强度，和培训经验。31名女性低年级到高级登山者被随机分配到对照组，墙上的训练或墙上的训练小组。除了训练方案，所有小组都遵循通常的攀爬和抱石程序。受试者每周至少训练两次。结石性能,并在干预前后评估手指屈肌和上肢的最大力量和肌肉耐力。此外，感知到的劳累和不适的比率，运动享受，在第一次和最后一次训练中评估了运动乐趣，以及经过两周半的训练。在最后一次培训课程之后评估了内在培训动机。结果表明，离壁训练对攀岩强度有积极影响的趋势，以及攀岩技术的上墙训练。此外，我们的发现揭示了高运动乐趣和内在的训练动机，无论是在墙上的训练。因此，低年级到高级女性登山者应该依靠个人训练偏好。
