Abstract：
The environmental benefits of utilizing protease as a biocatalyst for wool shrink-resist finishing have been widely recognized. However, the efficacy of individual protease treatment is unsatisfactory due to its incapability towards the outermost cuticle layer of wool fibers that contains hydrophobic fatty acids. In order to weaken the structural integrity of the highly cross-linked scales and promote the enzymatic anti-felting, sodium sulfite and tris (2-carboxyethyl) phosphine hydrochloride (TCEP) were employed in combination with papain, respectively, aiming at obtaining a low shrinkage without unacceptable fiber damages. Based on the synergistic effect of papain and TCEP, the edges of wool scales were slightly destroyed by the reduction of disulfide bonds, accompanied by enzymatic hydrolysis of the keratin component. Through the controlled reduction and hydrolysis of wool scales, satisfactory anti-felting result was achieved without causing severe damage to the fiber interiors. In the presence of 0.25 g/L TCEP and 25 U/mL papain, the area shrinkage of wool fabric decreased to approximately 6 %, with a low strength loss of less than 8 %. Meanwhile, the dyeing behavior of the wool fabric under low-temperature conditions was dramatically improved, leading to decreased energy consumption during production. The present work provides an alternative for eco-friendly finishing of wool fabrics, which can be applied commercially.
摘要：
利用蛋白酶作为抗羊毛收缩整理的生物催化剂的环境效益已得到广泛认可。然而,由于单独的蛋白酶处理对含有疏水性脂肪酸的羊毛纤维的最外面的角质层没有能力,因此其功效不能令人满意。为了削弱高度交联鳞片的结构完整性,亚硫酸钠和三（2-羧乙基）膦盐酸盐（TCEP）与木瓜蛋白酶组合使用，分别,旨在获得低收缩率没有不可接受的纤维损伤。基于木瓜蛋白酶和TCEP的协同作用,羊毛鳞片的边缘被二硫键的还原稍微破坏，伴随着角蛋白成分的酶水解。通过控制羊毛鳞片的还原和水解，获得了令人满意的抗毡缩效果，而不会对纤维内部造成严重损害。在0.25g/LTCEP和25U/mL木瓜蛋白酶的存在下，羊毛织物的面积收缩率下降到约6%，具有小于8%的低强度损失。同时,羊毛织物在低温条件下的染色性能得到显著改善，导致生产过程中的能源消耗减少。本工作为羊毛织物的环保整理提供了一种替代方法，可以在商业上应用。
