PDF(Pubmed)
Abstract：
BACKGROUND: Plants are a source of natural ingredients with retinol-like properties that can deliver anti-aging benefits without the side effects typically associated with retinoid use. We hypothesized that by combining two such analogs, bakuchiol (BAK) and Vigna aconitifolia extract (VAE), with the potent retinoid retinal (RAL), the anti-photoaging potential of RAL could be enhanced without compromising its skin irritation profile. The purpose of this study was to demonstrate that BAK and VAE potentiate the anti-photoaging activity of RAL.
METHODS: Gene expression profiling of full-thickness reconstructed skin was first used to examine the impact of BAK or VAE in combination with RAL on skin biology. Next, the irritative potential of this combination, and its capacity to reverse key signs of photoaging in an ex vivo model was assessed. Finally, a proof-of-concept open label clinical study was performed to evaluate the anti-photoaging capacity and skin compatibility of a cosmetic formulation (tri-retinoid complex; 3RC) containing this complex in combination with other well characterized anti-photoaging ingredients.
RESULTS: In vitro profiling suggested that combining 0.1% RAL with BAK or VAE potentiates the effect of RAL on keratinocyte differentiation and skin barrier function without affecting its skin irritation profile. When formulated with other anti-photoaging ingredients, such as niacinamide and melatonin, 3RC reversed ultraviolet radiation-induced deficits in structural components of the dermal extracellular matrix, including hyaluronic acid and collagen. In vivo, it led to a reversal of clinical signs of age and photodamage, with statistically significant improvement to skin firmness (+5.6%), skin elasticity (+13.9%), wrinkle count (-43.2%), and skin tone homogeneity (+7.0%), observed within 28 days of once nightly use. Notably, the number of crow\'s feet wrinkles was reduced in 100% of subjects. Furthermore, 3RC was very well tolerated.
CONCLUSIONS: These data suggest that 3RC is a highly effective and well-tolerated treatment for photoaging.
METHODS: Gene expression profiling of full-thickness reconstructed skin was first used to examine the impact of BAK or VAE in combination with RAL on skin biology. Next, the irritative potential of this combination, and its capacity to reverse key signs of photoaging in an ex vivo model was assessed. Finally, a proof-of-concept open label clinical study was performed to evaluate the anti-photoaging capacity and skin compatibility of a cosmetic formulation (tri-retinoid complex; 3RC) containing this complex in combination with other well characterized anti-photoaging ingredients.
RESULTS: In vitro profiling suggested that combining 0.1% RAL with BAK or VAE potentiates the effect of RAL on keratinocyte differentiation and skin barrier function without affecting its skin irritation profile. When formulated with other anti-photoaging ingredients, such as niacinamide and melatonin, 3RC reversed ultraviolet radiation-induced deficits in structural components of the dermal extracellular matrix, including hyaluronic acid and collagen. In vivo, it led to a reversal of clinical signs of age and photodamage, with statistically significant improvement to skin firmness (+5.6%), skin elasticity (+13.9%), wrinkle count (-43.2%), and skin tone homogeneity (+7.0%), observed within 28 days of once nightly use. Notably, the number of crow\'s feet wrinkles was reduced in 100% of subjects. Furthermore, 3RC was very well tolerated.
CONCLUSIONS: These data suggest that 3RC is a highly effective and well-tolerated treatment for photoaging.
摘要：
背景:植物是具有视黄醇样性质的天然成分的来源,其可以递送抗衰老益处而没有通常与类视黄醇使用相关的副作用。我们假设通过结合两个这样的类似物，bakuchiol（BAK）和Vignaaconitifolia提取物（VAE），有效的类视黄醇视网膜（RAL），可以增强RAL的抗光老化潜力，而不会损害其皮肤刺激特征。这项研究的目的是证明BAK和VAE增强RAL的抗光老化活性。
方法：首先使用全厚度重建皮肤的基因表达谱来检查BAK或VAE与RAL组合对皮肤生物学的影响。接下来,这种组合的潜在刺激性，并评估了其在离体模型中逆转光老化关键迹象的能力。最后,进行了概念验证开放标签临床研究,以评估含有该复合物与其他特征明确的抗光老化成分的化妆品制剂(三类维生素A复合物;3RC)的抗光老化能力和皮肤相容性.
结果：体外分析表明，将0.1％RAL与BAK或VAE组合可增强RAL对角质形成细胞分化和皮肤屏障功能的作用，而不会影响其皮肤刺激特征。当与其他抗光老化成分一起配制时，如烟酰胺和褪黑激素，3RC逆转了紫外线辐射诱导的真皮细胞外基质结构成分的缺陷，包括透明质酸和胶原蛋白。在体内,它导致年龄和光损伤的临床症状逆转，皮肤紧致度有统计学显著改善（+5.6%），皮肤弹性（+13.9%），皱纹计数（-43.2%），和肤色均匀性（+7.0%），在每晚使用一次的28天内观察到。值得注意的是,在100％的受试者中，乌鸦脚皱纹的数量减少了。此外，3RC耐受性良好。
结论：这些数据表明3RC是光老化的高效且耐受性良好的治疗方法。
方法：首先使用全厚度重建皮肤的基因表达谱来检查BAK或VAE与RAL组合对皮肤生物学的影响。接下来,这种组合的潜在刺激性，并评估了其在离体模型中逆转光老化关键迹象的能力。最后,进行了概念验证开放标签临床研究,以评估含有该复合物与其他特征明确的抗光老化成分的化妆品制剂(三类维生素A复合物;3RC)的抗光老化能力和皮肤相容性.
结果：体外分析表明，将0.1％RAL与BAK或VAE组合可增强RAL对角质形成细胞分化和皮肤屏障功能的作用，而不会影响其皮肤刺激特征。当与其他抗光老化成分一起配制时，如烟酰胺和褪黑激素，3RC逆转了紫外线辐射诱导的真皮细胞外基质结构成分的缺陷，包括透明质酸和胶原蛋白。在体内,它导致年龄和光损伤的临床症状逆转，皮肤紧致度有统计学显著改善（+5.6%），皮肤弹性（+13.9%），皱纹计数（-43.2%），和肤色均匀性（+7.0%），在每晚使用一次的28天内观察到。值得注意的是,在100％的受试者中，乌鸦脚皱纹的数量减少了。此外，3RC耐受性良好。
结论：这些数据表明3RC是光老化的高效且耐受性良好的治疗方法。
