PDF(Pubmed)
Abstract：
The objective of this systematic review and meta-analysis was to examine the effects of climbing and climbing-and-resistance-training on climbing performance, and strength and endurance tests. We systematically searched three databases (SPORTDiscus, SCOPUS, and PubMed) for records published until January 2021. The search was limited to randomized-controlled trials using active climbers and measuring climbing performance or performance in climbing-specific tests. Data from the meta-analysis are presented as standardized difference in mean (SDM) with 95% confidence intervals (95% CI). Eleven studies are included in the systematic review and five studies compared training to a control group and could be meta-analyzed. The overall meta-analysis displayed an improvement in climbing-related test performance following climbing-specific resistance training compared to only climbing (SDM = 0.57, 95%CI = 0.24-0.91). Further analyses revealed that finger strength (SDM = 0.41, 95%CI 0.03-0.80), rate of force development (SDM = 0.91, 95%CI = 0.21-1.61), and forearm endurance (SDM = 1.23, 95%CI = 0.69-1.77) were improved by resistance-training of the finger flexors compared to climbing training. The systematic review showed that climbing performance may be improved by specific resistance-training or interval-style bouldering. However, resistance-training of the finger flexors showed no improvements in strength or endurance in climbing-specific tests. The available evidence suggests that resistance-training may be more effective than just climbing-training for improving performance outcomes. Importantly, interventional studies including climbers is limited and more research is needed to confirm these findings.
摘要：
本系统评价和荟萃分析的目的是研究攀岩和攀岩阻力训练对攀岩表现的影响。以及力量和耐力测试。我们系统地搜索了三个数据库(SPORTDiscus，Scopus,和PubMed)发布到2021年1月的记录。搜索仅限于使用活动攀岩者并测量攀岩性能或攀岩特定测试中的性能的随机对照试验。来自荟萃分析的数据呈现为具有95%置信区间(95%CI)的标准化平均值差异(SDM)。系统评价中包括11项研究，5项研究将训练与对照组进行比较，可以进行荟萃分析。总体荟萃分析显示，与仅攀岩相比，攀岩特定阻力训练后的攀岩相关测试性能有所改善（SDM=0.57，95CI=0.24-0.91）。进一步的分析表明，手指力量(SDM=0.41，95CI0.03-0.80)，力发展率(SDM=0.91，95CI=0.21-1.61)，与攀岩训练相比，前臂耐力（SDM=1.23，95CI=0.69-1.77）通过手指屈肌的阻力训练得到改善。系统评价表明，可以通过特定的阻力训练或间歇式抱石来改善攀爬性能。然而,在特定的攀爬测试中，手指屈肌的阻力训练在力量或耐力方面没有改善。现有证据表明，阻力训练可能比仅仅攀岩训练更有效，以提高成绩。重要的是,包括登山者在内的介入研究是有限的，需要更多的研究来证实这些发现。
