关键词: Alternative methods Anti-aging Complex botanical mixture Cosmetic Risk evaluation Skin-whitening

Mesh : Animals Cattle Cells, Cultured Complex Mixtures Consumer Product Safety Cornea / drug effects Cosmetics / chemistry toxicity Dendritic Cells / drug effects Dermatitis, Phototoxic Dermatologic Agents / chemistry toxicity Eugenia / chemistry toxicity Humans Interleukin-18 / metabolism Irritants / toxicity Keratinocytes / drug effects Mice Micronucleus Tests Plant Extracts / chemistry toxicity Plant Leaves / chemistry

来  源:   DOI:10.1016/j.tiv.2017.04.002   PDF(Sci-hub)

Abstract:
In the context of developing a new natural product-based cosmetic, the in vitro efficacy and safety evaluations of a complex botanical mixture based on Eugenia dysenterica leaf hydroalcoholic extract (EDE) (2.5-1000μg/mL) were carried out. Chromatographic analysis demonstrated the presence of the tannin (ellagic acid) and flavonoids (quercetin and gallic acid) which characterize the EDE as a polyphenol-rich mixture. Using HFF-1 fibroblasts, it was shown that EDE promoted cell regeneration after UVA exposure. It also led to the inhibition of the collagenase, elastase and tyrosinase enzymes, which are involved in skin-related disorders. In terms of toxicological evaluation, the EDE was classified as non-phototoxic through the 3T3 Neutral Red Uptake Phototoxicity Test (OECD N° 432, 2004) and non-eye irritant by Bovine Corneal Opacity and Permeability (OECD N° 437, 2013) assay, in conjunction with corneal histomorphometric analysis. Furthermore, the EDE has no skin sensitization potential as demonstrated by a two-out-of-three prediction model [protein-binding/haptenization (OECD N° 442C, 2015), keratinocyte and dendritic cell activations]. In addition, it was shown that the EDE seems to be non-genotoxic through the cytokinesis-block micronucleus assay (OECD N° 487, 2014) using HepG2 cells. When considered together, these findings support the use of EDE botanical mixture in cosmetic/pharmaceutical products.
摘要:
在开发一种新的基于天然产品的化妆品的背景下,对基于大黄花叶水醇提取物(EDE)(2.5-1000μg/mL)的复杂植物混合物进行了体外功效和安全性评估。色谱分析表明存在单宁(鞣花酸)和类黄酮(槲皮素和没食子酸),这将EDE表征为富含多酚的混合物。使用HFF-1成纤维细胞,结果表明,EDE促进UVA暴露后的细胞再生。它还导致胶原酶的抑制,弹性蛋白酶和酪氨酸酶,与皮肤相关的疾病有关。在毒理学评价方面,通过3T3中性红色吸收光毒性试验(OECDN°432,2004)将EDE归类为非光毒性,通过牛角膜不透明度和渗透性(OECDN°437,2013)测定将其归类为非眼刺激物,结合角膜组织形态计量学分析。此外,EDE没有皮肤致敏潜力,如三分之二预测模型[蛋白质结合/半抗原化(OECDN°442C,2015),角质形成细胞和树突状细胞激活]。此外,通过使用HepG2细胞的胞质分裂阻断微核试验(OECDN°487,2014),发现EDE似乎无遗传毒性.当一起考虑时,这些发现支持EDE植物混合物在化妆品/药品中的应用。
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