%0 Journal Article
%T Spectral and mass characterization of kinetic conversion from retinoids to retinoic acid in an in vitro 3-D human skin equivalent model.
%A Kim JE
%A Lee DY
%A Choi J
%A Hong YD
%A Nam J
%A Park WS
%A Shim SM
%J Eur J Pharm Sci
%V 198
%N 0
%D 2024 Jul 1
%M 38705422
%F 5.112
%R 10.1016/j.ejps.2024.106784
%X To investigate the effect of retinoids, such as retinol (ROL), retinal (RAL), and retinyl palmitate (RP), on epidermal integrity, skin deposition, and bioconversion to retinoic acid (RA). 3-D human skin equivalent model (EpiDermFT™) was used. Epidermal cellular integrity measured by TEER values was significantly higher for a topical treatment of ROL and RAL than RP (p < 0.05). The skin deposition (μM) of ROL and RAL was approximately 269.54 ± 73.94 and 211.35 ± 20.96, respectively, greater than that of RP (63.70 ± 37.97) over 2 h incubation. Spectral changes were revealed that the CO maximum absorbance occurred between 1600∼1800 cm-1 and was greater from ROL than that from RAL and RP, indicating conjugation of R-OH to R-CHO or R-COOH could strongly occur after ROL treatment. Subsequently, a metabolite from the bioconversion of ROL and RAL was identified as RA, which has a product ion of m/z 283.06, by using liquid a chromatography-mass spectrometry (LC-MS) - total ion chromatogram (TIC). The amount of bioconversion from ROL and RAL to RA in artificial skin was 0.68 ± 0.13 and 0.70 ± 0.10 μM at 2 h and 0.60 ± 0.04 and 0.57 ± 0.06 μM at 24 h, respectively. RA was not detected in the skin and the receiver compartment after RP treatment. ROL could be a useful dermatological ingredient to maintain epidermal integrity more effectively, more stably deposit on the skin, and more steadily metabolize to RA than other retinoids such as RAL and RP.