Abstract：
Griffith Pugh, MD (1909-1994), was a pioneer in altitude physiology. During World War II, he developed training protocols in Lebanon to improve soldier performance at altitude and in the cold. In 1951 he was chosen to join the British Everest team as a scientist. In preparation, he developed strategies for success on a training expedition on Cho Oyu in 1952. Results from Cho Oyu led to the use of supplemental oxygen at higher flow rates during ascent than used previously (4 L/min vs 2 L/min) and continued use (at a reduced rate of 2 L/min) during descent, enabling increased performance and improved mental acuity. Oxygen was also used during sleep, leading to improved sleep and warmth. Adequate hydration (∼3 L/day) was also stressed, and a more appealing diet led to improved nutrition and condition of the climbers. Improved hygiene practices and acclimatization protocols were also developed. These strategies contributed to the first successful summiting of Mount Everest in 1953. Pugh was then appointed as the lead scientist for a ground-breaking eight-and-a-half-month research expedition where the team was the first to overwinter at high altitude (5800 m) in the Himalayas. This current work summarizes Pugh\'s scientific contributions as they relate to success on Mount Everest and in inspiring future altitude research by generations of successful researchers.
摘要：
格里菲斯·普格,MD(1909-1994),是海拔生理学的先驱.在第二次世界大战期间,他在黎巴嫩制定了训练协议，以提高士兵在高空和寒冷中的表现。1951年，他被选为英国珠穆朗玛峰团队的科学家。在准备中,1952年，他在ChoOyu的一次训练探险中制定了成功的策略。ChoOyu的结果导致在上升过程中以比以前更高的流速使用补充氧气（4L/minvs2L/min），并在下降过程中继续使用（以降低的速率2L/min）。能够提高性能和提高精神敏锐度。睡眠期间也使用氧气，改善睡眠和温暖。充足的水合作用(~3升/天)也受到了压力，更吸引人的饮食改善了登山者的营养和状况。还制定了改进的卫生习惯和适应方案。这些策略促成了1953年珠穆朗玛峰首次成功登顶。随后，Pugh被任命为开创性的八个半月研究考察的首席科学家，该团队是第一个在喜马拉雅山高海拔（5800m）越冬的人。当前的工作总结了Pugh的科学贡献，因为它们与珠穆朗玛峰上的成功以及几代成功的研究人员对未来海拔研究的启发有关。
