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Abstract：
Nowadays, secondary raw materials (SRM) obtained from plant matrices are of great interest for circular economy, suitable for sustainable measures to reduce environmental impact. This work focused on the extraction, characterization and quantification of compounds obtained from leaves and fruits of the Sicilian sumac, Rhus coriaria L. and their application as natural dyes on textile fibres. Extractions were performed with Extractor Naviglio®, maceration and ultrasound assisted methods and food-grade solvents (aqueous and hydroalcoholic) to evaluate the yields for dye compounds. The presence of colouring molecules was evaluated by UV-Vis spectrophotometer, and the extracts selected for colouring were quantified and characterized by LC-MS. The results showed that Extractor Naviglio® achieved the best extraction yield, and the ethanol-water mixture extracts had a higher amount of total phenolic compounds (TPC) and a higher content of total colouring compounds (TCC). These extracts were selected for subsequent applications as dyes for linen, cotton and wool. The chemical profile of selected extracts was rich in compounds such as gallotannin and anthocyanin class. Fibre dyeing was verified by recording CIELAB colouring coordinates. The results suggest that the dyes obtained from R. coriaria can be of great interest for artisanal and industrial processes, in accordance with environmental sustainability.
摘要：
如今,从植物基质中获得的二次原料(SRM)对循环经济非常感兴趣，适用于可持续的措施，以减少对环境的影响。这项工作的重点是提取，从西西里漆树的叶子和果实中获得的化合物的表征和定量，RhuscoriariaL.及其作为天然染料在纺织纤维上的应用。用ExtractorNaviglio®进行提取，浸渍和超声辅助方法以及食品级溶剂（水性和水醇），以评估染料化合物的产率。通过紫外可见分光光度计评估着色分子的存在，并通过LC-MS对选择用于着色的提取物进行定量和表征。结果表明，ExtractorNaviglio®取得了最好的提取率，并且乙醇-水混合物提取物具有较高的总酚类化合物(TPC)量和较高的总着色化合物(TCC)含量。这些提取物被选择用于后续应用，作为亚麻染料，棉花和羊毛。所选提取物的化学特征富含化合物，例如五倍子单宁和花色苷。通过记录CIELAB着色坐标来验证纤维染色。结果表明，从R.coriaria获得的染料对于手工和工业过程非常感兴趣，符合环境可持续性。
