关键词: Rosa spp. ascorbic acid collagen synthesis hyperpigmentation skin aging skin barrier protection skin disorders wound healing

来  源:   DOI:10.3389/fphar.2024.1390419   PDF(Pubmed)

Abstract:
Rosa spp., commonly known as rosehips, are wild plants that have traditionally been employed as herbal remedies for the treatment of a wide range of disorders. Rosehip is a storehouse of vitamins, including A, B complex, C, and E. Among phytonutrients, vitamin C is found in the highest amount. As rosehips contain significant levels of vitamin C, they are perfect candidates for the development of skincare formulations that can be effectively used in the treatment of different skin disorders (i.e., scarring, anti-aging, hyperpigmentation, wrinkles, melasma, and atopic dermatitis). This research focuses on the vitamin C content of several Rosa sp. by their botanical and geographic origins, which according to research studies are in the following order: R. rugosa > R. montana > R. canina > R. dumalis, with lower levels in R. villosa and R. arvensis, respectively. Among rosehip species, R. canina is the most extensively studied species which also displays significant amounts of bioactive compounds, but also antioxidant, and antimicrobial activities (e.g., against Propionibacterium acnes, Staphylococcus aureus, S, epidermis, and S. haemolyticus). The investigation also highlights the use of rosehip extracts and oils to minimise the harmful effects of acne, which primarily affects teenagers in terms of their physical appearance (e.g., scarring, hyperpigmentation, imperfections), as well as their moral character (e.g., low self-confidence, bullying). Additionally, for higher vitamin C content from various rosehip species, the traditional (i.e., infusion, maceration, Soxhlet extraction) and contemporary extraction methods (i.e., supercritical fluid extraction, microwave-assisted, ultrasonic-assisted, and enzyme-assisted extractions) are highlighted, finally choosing the best extraction method for increased bioactive compounds, with emphasis on vitamin C content. Consequently, the current research focuses on assessing the potential of rosehip extracts as medicinal agents against various skin conditions, and the use of rosehip concentrations in skincare formulations (such as toner, serum, lotion, and sunscreen). Up-to-date studies have revealed that rosehip extracts are perfect candidates as topical application products in the form of nanoemulsions. Extensive in vivo studies have revealed that rosehip extracts also exhibit specific activities against multiple skin disorders (i.e., wound healing, collagen synthesis, atopic dermatitis, melasma, and anti-aging effects). Overall, with multiple dermatological actions and efficacies, rosehip extracts and oils are promising agents that require a thorough investigation of their functioning processes to enable their safe use in the skincare industry.
摘要:
Rosaspp.,通常被称为玫瑰果,是传统上用作治疗多种疾病的草药的野生植物。玫瑰果是维生素的仓库,包括A,B复杂,C,和E.在植物营养素中,维生素C含量最高。由于玫瑰果含有大量的维生素C,它们是开发可有效用于治疗不同皮肤病的护肤制剂的完美候选人(即,疤痕,抗衰老,色素沉着过度,皱纹,黄褐斑,和特应性皮炎)。本研究的重点是几种Rosasp的维生素C含量。根据它们的植物学和地理起源,根据研究,其顺序如下:R.rugosa>R.montana>R.canina>R.dumalis,R.villosa和R.arvensis中的水平较低,分别。在玫瑰果物种中,R.canina是研究最广泛的物种,也显示出大量的生物活性化合物,还有抗氧化剂,和抗微生物活性(例如,对抗痤疮丙酸杆菌,金黄色葡萄球菌,S,表皮,和溶血链球菌)。调查还强调了使用玫瑰果提取物和油脂以最大程度地减少痤疮的有害影响,这主要影响青少年的外表(例如,疤痕,色素沉着过度,缺陷),以及他们的道德品质(例如,低自信,欺凌)。此外,各种玫瑰果的维生素C含量较高,传统的(即,输液,浸渍,索氏提取)和当代提取方法(即,超临界流体萃取,微波辅助,超声波辅助,和酶辅助提取)被强调,最终选择最佳的提取方法来增加生物活性化合物,强调维生素C的含量。因此,目前的研究重点是评估玫瑰果提取物作为药物对各种皮肤状况的潜力,以及在护肤配方中使用玫瑰果浓度(如爽肤水,血清,洗剂,和防晒霜)。最新研究表明,玫瑰果提取物是纳米乳液形式的局部应用产品的完美候选物。广泛的体内研究表明,玫瑰果提取物还表现出针对多种皮肤疾病的特定活性(即,伤口愈合,胶原蛋白合成,特应性皮炎,黄褐斑,和抗衰老效果)。总的来说,具有多种皮肤病学作用和功效,玫瑰果提取物和油是很有前途的药物,需要对其功能过程进行彻底的调查,以便在护肤行业中安全使用。
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