PDF(Pubmed)
Abstract：
Hydrolyzed collagen, glycogen, and hyaluronic acid, obtained through the biotechnological valorization of underutilized marine bioresources, fulfill cosmetic industry requirements for sustainable products produced under circular economy principles. Hydrolyzed collagen was obtained by hydrolyzing blue shark collagen with papain and ultrafiltration. Glycogen was isolated from industrial mussel cooking wastewaters through ultrafiltration, precipitation, and selective polysaccharide separation. Hyaluronic acid was produced by fermentation, purification, and depolymerization. The main objective was to test the feasibility of including these three biomolecules in a cosmetic formulation as bioactive compounds. For this, the in vitro irritant potential of the three ingredients and also that of the cosmetic formulation was assayed according to the Reconstituted Human Epithelium Test method OECD 439. Moreover, an in vitro assessment of the effect of hydrolyzed collagen and hyaluronic acid combinations on mRNA expression and collagen type I synthesis was evaluated in adult human fibroblasts. This study establishes, for the first time, the potential use of particular hydrolyzed collagen and hyaluronic acid combinations as stimulators of collagen I synthesis in fibroblast cultures. Besides, it provide safety information regarding potential use of those biomolecules in the formulation of a cosmetic preparation positively concluding that both, ingredients and cosmetic preparation, resulted not irritant for skin following an international validated reference method.
摘要：
水解胶原蛋白，糖原，和透明质酸,通过对未充分利用的海洋生物资源进行生物技术增值而获得的，满足化妆品行业对循环经济原则下生产的可持续产品的要求。水解胶原蛋白是通过木瓜蛋白酶水解蓝鲨胶原蛋白和超滤获得的。通过超滤从工业贻贝烹饪废水中分离出糖原，降水,和选择性多糖分离。透明质酸是通过发酵产生的，净化,和解聚。主要目的是测试在化妆品制剂中包含这三种生物分子作为生物活性化合物的可行性。为此，根据重组人上皮测试方法OECD439测定三种成分的体外刺激潜力以及化妆品制剂的体外刺激潜力。此外，在成人成纤维细胞中评估了水解胶原蛋白和透明质酸组合对mRNA表达和I型胶原蛋白合成的影响。这项研究确立了，第一次,特定水解胶原蛋白和透明质酸组合作为成纤维细胞培养物中胶原蛋白I合成的刺激物的潜在用途。此外,它提供了有关这些生物分子在化妆品制剂制剂中的潜在用途的安全信息，成分和化妆品制剂，根据国际验证的参考方法，结果对皮肤没有刺激性。
