Abstract：
The application of plant dyes in the textile industry has been very limited due to their limited sources, incomplete color space, and narrow color gamut, etc. Therefore, studies of the color properties and color gamut of natural dyes and the corresponding dyeing processes are essential for completing the color space of natural dyes and their application. In this study, water extract from the bark of Phellodendron amurense (P. amurense) was used as a dye. Dyeing properties, color gamut, and color evaluation of dyed cotton fabrics were studied, and optimal dyeing conditions were obtained. The results showed that the optimal dyeing process was pre-mordanting with liquor ratio at 1:50, P. amurense dye concentration at 5.2 g/L, mordant concentration (aluminum potassium sulfate) at 5 g/L, dyeing temperature at 70 °C, dyeing time of 30 min, mordanting time of 15 min, and pH 5. Through the optimization of the dyeing process, a maximum color gamut range was obtained with lightness L* value from 74.33 to 91.23, a* value from -0.89 to 2.96, b* value from 4.62 to 34.08, chroma C* value from 5.49 to 34.09, and hue angle h° value from 57.35° to 91.57°. Colors from light yellow to dark yellow were obtained, among which 12 colors were identified according to the Pantone Matching Systems. The color fastness against soap-washing, rubbing, and sunlight on the dyed cotton fabrics all reached grade 3 level or above, further expanding the applicability of natural dyes.
摘要：
植物染料由于其来源有限,在纺织工业中的应用一直十分有限,不完整的颜色空间，和狭窄的色域，等。因此,研究天然染料的色彩特性和色域以及相应的染色工艺对于完成天然染料的色彩空间及其应用至关重要。在这项研究中,黄柏树皮的水提取物（P.amurense）用作染料。染色性能，色域,研究了染色棉织物的颜色评价，并获得了最佳染色条件。结果表明，最佳染色工艺是以1:50的液比进行预媒染，P.amurense染料浓度为5.2g/L，媒染剂浓度（硫酸铝钾）为5g/L，染色温度为70°C，染色时间30分钟，媒染时间15分钟，和pH5。通过对染色工艺的优化,获得最大色域范围，亮度L*值为74.33至91.23，a*值为-0.89至2.96，b*值为4.62至34.08，色度C*值为5.49至34.09，色调角h°值为57.35°至91.57°。获得从浅黄色到深黄色的颜色，其中12种颜色是根据Pantone匹配系统确定的。耐皂洗色牢度,摩擦,染色棉织物上的阳光均达到3级或以上，进一步扩大了天然染料的适用性。
