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Abstract：
The aerial parts of the Argy Worm Wood (AWW) plant have been used in different Chinese foods as a colorant and a taste enhancer for a long time. Despite its application as a food colorant, it has rarely been considered for the coloration of textiles. Keeping in mind the variation in color strength due to the change in phytochemical contents by seasonal change and other variables, the extraction of AWW aerial parts was optimized using the Taguchi method. Optimization was performed on the basis of total phytochemical contents (phenols, flavonoids, and tannins) in the extracted solutions. For this purpose, two different solvent systems, namely sodium hydroxide/water (NaOH/water) and ethanol/water (EtOH/water), were applied through a simple aqueous extraction method at varying levels of solvent concentration, and extraction temperature and duration. Maximum phytochemicals yield of 21.96% was obtained using NaOH/water system with 9 g/L NaOH/water at 85 °C for 20 min and 25.5% with 75% aqueous ethanol at 85 °C for 40 min. Optimized extracts were characterized by UV-Vis and FTIR spectrophotometry, which showed the presence of multiple phytochemicals in the extracts. The dyeing temperature and time were also optimized. Dyed cotton fabrics showed medium to high colorfastness to washing and excellent antibacterial and UV radiation absorption properties. The effect of pre-mordanting with salts of iron and copper was also studied on the color fastness properties. Cotton fabrics dyed with two different solvent system extracts displayed various shades of brown with NaOH/water, and green with aqueous ethanol with and without pre-mordanting. The present study provides the textile industry with a promising source of functional bio-colorant and a value-adding approach for the AWW plant industry.
摘要：
长期以来，ArgyWormWood（AWW）植物的地上部分已在不同的中国食品中用作着色剂和增味剂。尽管它作为食品着色剂的应用，它很少被考虑用于纺织品的着色。记住由于季节变化和其他变量引起的植物化学物质含量的变化，颜色强度的变化，使用Taguchi方法优化了AWW天线零件的提取。优化是在总植物化学物质含量的基础上进行的(酚类，黄酮类化合物，和单宁)在提取的溶液中。为此,两种不同的溶剂系统，即氢氧化钠/水（NaOH/水）和乙醇/水（EtOH/水），通过简单的水性提取方法在不同的溶剂浓度水平下应用，和提取温度和持续时间。使用NaOH/水系统与9g/LNaOH/水在85°C下保持20分钟，并使用25.5％的75％乙醇水溶液在85°C下保持40分钟，获得了21.96％的最大植物化学物质产率。通过紫外-可见和红外分光光度法对优选的提取物进行表征,这表明提取物中存在多种植物化学物质。优化了染色温度和时间。染色棉织物具有中等至高的耐洗色牢度以及优异的抗菌和紫外线吸收性能。还研究了用铁盐和铜盐预媒染对色牢度性能的影响。用两种不同的溶剂系统提取物染色的棉织物用NaOH/水显示出不同的棕色色调，和绿色的含水乙醇有和没有预媒染。本研究为纺织工业提供了功能性生物着色剂的有希望的来源，并为AWW植物行业提供了增值方法。
